spoonfed*ek9

Alright guys , ran into a issue with a buddys car.

Ive searched for help and found nothing

Dumb **** took it to jiffy lube ... and the results =

They changed his oil and didnt put a crush washer in between the drain plug and oil pan and tightend it way to much. So anyways , i did a service on his car today ( plugs, coolant , trans etc.. ) . When it came to the oil change the drain plug was very tight when it came to drain it... their was no crusher washer and the threads from the oil pan came out with the drain plug..

SO... NOOWWWW.. were gonna change the oil pan. ( on order )

I know the sub-frame has to be dropped , etc..

The help i need is -

anyone have a thread link for a step by step diy ?
link to a service manual .. ?

anything would help.. thank you

vladd

Why didn't the buddy talk to Jiffy Lube about it?

spoonfed*ek9

theirs no proof that they did it... after the fact i pulled out the drain plug.

kartman5

This might help you out. Sorry I coudlnt get the pictures from it Im working on that now.




Oil Pan Installation
1. Remove all of the old liquid gasket from the oil pan mating surfaces, bolts, and bolt holes.
2. Clean, and dry the oil pan mating surfaces.
3. Apply liquid gasket, P/N 08717-0004, 08718-0001, 08718-0002, 08718-0003, or 08718-0009, evenly to the lower engine block mating surface and to the inside edge of the bolt holes.

NOTE: Do not install components if tog much time has passed after applying the liquid gasket (for P/N 08718-0002, no more than 4 minutes, for all others, no more than 5 minutes). Instead, remove the old residue and reapply the liquid gasket.

4. Install the oil pan.
5. Tighten the bolts in two or three steps. In the final step, tighten all bolts, in sequence, to 12 Nm (1.2 kgf-m, 8.7 ft. lbs.). Wipe off the excess liquid gasket on the each side of crankshaft pulley and flywheel.
NOTE: ^ Wait at least 30 minutes before filling the engine with oil. ^ Do not run the engine for at least 3 hours after installing the oil pan.
6. Install the transmission mounting bolts (A) and clutch cover (B).
7. Install the lower torque rod bracket.
8. If the engine still in the vehicle, do the following steps.
9. Support the front subframe with the subframe adapter and a jack, and lift it up to the body.
10. Loosely install the new subframe mounting bolts.
11. Align all reference marks on the front subframe with the body, then tighten the bolts on the front subframe to the specified torque.
12. Remove the jack and front subframe adapter.
13. Tighten the new mid-stiffener mounting bolts on both side.
14. Lower the vehicle on the hoist.
15. Loosen the upper torque rod mounting bolt.
16. Raise the vehicle on the hoist.
17. Install the lower torque rod, then tighten the new lower torque rod mounting bolts in the numbered sequence shown.
18. Loosely tighten the new front mount mounting bolt.
19. Lower the vehicle on the hoist.
20. Tighten the upper torque rod mounting bolt.
21. Raise the vehicle on the hoist to full height.
22. Tighten the front mount mounting bolt.
23. Install the stiffener, then tighten the steering gearbox mounting bolt and stiffener mounting bolt. Install the harness clamp from the subframe.
24. Install the steering gearbox bracket. Install the stiffener, then tighten the steering gearbox mounting bolt and stiffener mounting bolt.
25. Connect the lower arms to the knuckles.
26. Connect the stabilizer links.
27. Install the splash shield.

kartman5

Those are the pictures. Hope it helps.

spoonfed*ek9

thank you.. this kinda helped.

i was looking for the steps on taking the subframe out to get to the oil pan.

but thank you.. this helped out

kartman5

This might be too late, but here you go.

NOTE:
- After loosening the subframe mounting bolts, be sure to replace them with new ones.
- When installing, align both installation reference holes in the subframe with both reference holes in the body using a screwdriver or tapered punch as a guide.

spoonfed*ek9

Thanks man , that is what i was looking for.

kartman5

No prob, Glad I could help.

vladd

Why replace the bolts? I never had issues after loosening the bolts on my '08 Si.

kartman5

SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations and the precautions and procedures before performing repairs or service.

Removal


Pic 1


NOTICE: Be careful not to pull the bracket (A) on the front side of steering column out of its normal position. If the bracket accidentally comes out, replace the steering column as an assembly.

1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the radio or navigation system, then write down the audio presets.
2. Make sure the ignition switch is OFF, then disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
3. Remove the driver's airbag assembly and the steering wheel.
4. Remove the driver's dashboard under cover.
5. Remove the column covers.


Pic 2


6. Remove the steering joint cover A.
7. Release the tilt/telescopic lock lever, and adjust the steering column to full tilt up position, and to the full telescopic in position.
8. Tighten the tilt/telescopic lock lever.


Pic 3


9. Hold the lower slide shaft (A) on the column with a piece of wire (B) between the joint yoke (C) of the lower slide shaft and joint yoke (D) of the upper shaft to prevent the slider shaft from pulling out.
10. Release the tilt/telescopic lock lever, and adjust the steering column to the full telescopic out position, then tighten the tilt/telescopic lock lever.

NOTE: Do not release tilt/telescopic lock lever when removing the steering column from the frame.


Pic 4


11. Disconnect the wire harness connectors from the combination switch assembly and cable reel (A).
12. Remove the combination switch assembly from the steering column shaft by removing the three screws (B).
13. Disconnect the connectors from the ignition switch, and release the wire harness clips from the steering column.
14. Remove the steering joint bolt (C), then disconnect the steering joint (D) from the pinion shaft.
15. Remove the steering column (E) by removing the attaching nuts and bolts. If the lower slide shaft (F) is removed, slip it into the upper shaft (G) by aligning the paint or stamped marks (H).
16. Remove the center guide (I) (if equipped), and discard it. The center guide is for factory assembly only.

Installation
1. Install the steering column in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
^ Make sure the wires are not caught or pinched by any parts.
^ Take care not to let the sliding capsules fall out of position during column installation.
2. Center the steering rack within its stroke in steering joint connection.


Pic 5


3. With the rack in the straight ahead driving position, cut the wire (A) and slip the lower end of the steering joint onto the pinion shaft (B) in the range shown.


Pic 6

4. Align the bolt hole (A) on the steering joint with the groove (B) around the pinion shaft, and loosely install the joint bolt (C). Be sure that the joint bolt is securely in the groove in the pinion shaft. Pull on the steering joint to make sure that the steering joint is fully seated. Tighten the steering joint bolt to the specified torque.


Pic 7


5. Install the steering joint cover A.
6. Install the steering wheel.
7. Install the column covers.
8. Install the driver's dashboard under cover.
9. Connect the negative battery cable.
^ Turn the ignition switch ON (II); the SRS indicator should come on for about 6 seconds and then go off.
^ Enter the anti-theft code for the radio or navigation system, then enter the audio presets.
^ Set the clock.
^ Verify cruise control, audio remote, navigation guide, and turn signal switch operation.
^ Make sure the steering wheel is centered.

spoonfed*ek9

Thank you again man..

MIKE JR

Honda actually provides us with a special tool kit for Oil Pan drain plug repair, that is basically a Helicoil for stripped pans, a special TAP, Helicoil and install Driver, as well as a new, of course thinner Drain plug with the same 17mm Head. If you ask you nearest dealer, they can probably order you one or at least give you the thread pitches so you can use your own tools. its actually much more convenient.

spoonfed*ek9

Thanks man , my boy ended up buying the
Pan from honda.. So were just gonna replace it sunday.

lolv8s

ok so I’ve replaced my oil pan. Changed the oil and oil filter. And the lower rear mount that attatches into the oil pan. The one mount in front to the subframe is bad and needs to be replaced. But in time. Right now I just got the immobilizer reset. But it makes a weird loud vibrating noise driving down the road. My oil like comes on randomly. So maybe a sensor problem? I don’t know. It can come on when I slow down and the oil shifts in the pan maybe? Any ideas?

lolv8s

my other oil pan broke and there were small pieces stuck in the oil pan on the bottom. Just to let you know. But I don’t think they were sucked up into the oil pickup because I checked if there was any pieces to see.

pat.ercole

My daughter's oil pan was cracked at Jiffy Lube by using an over-sized stainless steel washer ad over-tightening the bolt, which caused the aluminum oil pan to lose the 'tightening battle' with the stainless steel washer which mushroomed under the pressure and cracked the oip pan. We had to have it repaired at our mechanic's shop where we take our cars. Apparently there was an issue when lowering the subframe (not clear on mechanic talk, so I'm not sure where the issue came in). Bottom line is that a inexpensive oil change for my daughter (new college grad) turned into a $1978 repair job for me.
The costs that arose from the cracked oil pan were a result of the mechanics having to remove the AC compressor (which required an evacuate and recharge) and removal of the serpentine belt. When they went to loosen the serpentine belt, they ran into a frozen tensioner which would not release. They had to cut it, replace it and repair the tensioner. They did not charge us to evacuate /recharge the AC because they felt bad for us. I trust our mechanic! Jiffy Lube is saying they did more work than required. What are your thoughts?

Ryanthegreat1

There was no need to remove the AC compressor to replace the oil pan.

tech8

This is a little off-topic. Years ago, my friend use to regularly bring her CR-V to Jiffy Lube for oil changes. One time she called me and said they told her she needed the engine air filter changed and quoted a high price. My friend turned down the air filter service. Later that night, I wanted to check the condition of her air filter. When I opened the hood, I saw a gaping hole in the air intake from them breaking off parts of it. They did not tell her there was a gaping hole and crap could have gotten sucked into her engine like that.

Long story, short: Jiffy Lube ended up buying and replacing the air intake parts from Honda for my friend.

pat.ercole

This is what my mechanic said to me:
Good morning Patricia. The compressor has to be removed because it shares a mounting bracket on the oil pan. To remove the compressor, you must evacuate the system of refrigerant (which we have a certified machine for) remove the serpentine belt, which was in normal operating condition with no signs of attention required. However, due to the tensioner being frozen, the belt had to be cut and a new tensioner installed after installation of the new oil pan, and re installation of the compressor. Had the oil pan not been cracked, removal of all of these components would not have been necessary. I am also attaching the repair procedure for the oil pan straight from a licensed estimator we pay to have access to. This procedure is specific to the VIN number of Danielles year make and model Honda Civic. In the procedure you will see that it specifically instructs the removal of the A/C compressor, while it does say to leave the lines on, we remove them to prevent any damage to the lines or components in the area of the compressor which is why an evacuate and re charge is required. However, beings that we remove the lines strictly for precaution, we did not charge you for the evacuate as that is unfair to you since it's not required.

Ryanthegreat1

Well then there you go.