2005CivicVP

2005 Civic VP 1.7 Manual. One day I attempted to start my car but got dead battery symptoms. Instrument cluster warning lights dimmed and flickered when I turned the key to start and relays were heard rapidly clicking under the dash and then the warning lights and relays got fainter and fainter until I had no noise or dash warning lights. I than turned the key again and got no dash lights or relay sounds. I assumed it was a dead battery and push started the car. After 15 minutes I shut off the car and it restarted like new. I guessed I must have had a draw from a domelight or something. A week later the same symptoms except this time I tried a jump pack but no luck. No headlights but the battery tested 13.1 volts. Neg cable and ground cable from core support to engine are clean and good with clean tight battery terminals. I turn the key & get rapid relay clicks that fade away with fading dash warning lights and then no lights or sounds unless I unhook and rehook a battery cable. If I push start the car it will run and shut off and restart like nothing is wrong. I suspect a bad ground. any ideas? 151,000 miles and this is my first issue since I bought it brand new. verified good battery and clean and tight terminals.

lazlong

Just to be sure, did you check both ends of the negative battery cable?

2005CivicVP

Yes the cable is good at both ends. I replaced it about a year and a half ago when I replaced the battery. I am going to check all cables with a DVOM on Monday. I am certain it is a ground. I may also use a second vehicle with a jumper cable to ensure a ground and see what happens because as I stated it would not react with a jumper pack. i will definatly be posting my findings to the forum. I need to fix my Honda soon my Tundra is killing me on fuel costs!

2005CivicVP

UPDATE: I was pointed in the direction of the electrical junction box from an electrical mechanic I spoke with. He seems to think it may be a loose power lug in a junction box. The "hot" battery at 13.1 volts proves it is not a parasitic load so I will check and post back my findings.

lazlong

It may very well be one of the fuses boxes or the multilex unit or ECM/PCM but, you need to check your other grounds. One under each headlight accessed behind the inner fender. A couple behind the instrument cluster. One behind the radio. One behind the panel below that. One under the passenger dash.

Just because the battery shows 13V from the positive terminal doesn't mean it's a parasitic draw. With the ignition OFF, you have to disconnect the negative cable and put a test light or your volt meter in-line with the cable and battery terminal. If the light comes on or you measure voltage you have parasitic draw. If you do have a parasitic draw you then start pulling fuses one-by-one until the light goes out or the voltage drops to zero.

*DO NOT TOUCH ANY AIRBAG (SRS) FUSES*

Also, is it throwing any codes?