03EM2guy

so from what i understand the k20a has about 200whp. what are some numbers from a fully built N/A k20a? and what are some numbers comin from a boosted k20a?
also, how much cheaper is a k20a2 compared to a k20a?

InanimateCarbonRod

I don't really know all those answers, but you will most likely find all you need at http://www.k20a.org.

fventura03

iTrader: (1)

i <3 k20a.org

NoBottleJustThrottle

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 03EM2guy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so from what i understand the k20a has about 200whp. what are some numbers from a fully built N/A k20a? and what are some numbers comin from a boosted k20a?
also, how much cheaper is a k20a2 compared to a k20a?</TD></TR></TABLE>

The K20A has a bit less than 200whp. Its rated at 220hp at the crank...so there is some loss there. Fully built K20A's NA have seen 300whp if not more. Thats pretty extensive though. I know for some, boosting a K20A is out of the question. Its pretty high on compression which isnt the best for a turbo car. Given that, I know that K20A2's are running roughly 300whp on a pretty conservative tune.
I have found K20A2's for as little as $1900...I have seen K20A's for as little as $4500. Dont as me where I found the A2 for that price...search the internet long enough, and you will find it. I doubt they have any left at the price though. You are probably looking more like $2500 for the A2.

fventura03

iTrader: (1)

K24A2 is the best k24 because you dont have to put a k20a2 head on it.

i'm going a different route, k24a4 + k20a2 head + 6spd tranny with a goal of 230-250whp.

for my 7thgen? nope.

NoBottleJustThrottle

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wicivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the k20a is found in the civic si and the k20a3 in the base rsx i believe the new si is rated at 197 at the crank and the a3 at 160.... either way these are the best 2 choices if you are talking about going boost due to the lower compression ratio... i would say go with k20a because you start at 197 hp and have a 6 spd lsd tranny
k20a2 is found in the rsx type s which is rated at 200 hp
</TD></TR></TABLE>

WHAT THE HECK ARE YOU TALKING ABOUT!? Dont post up if you dont know. You are just adding far too much confusion.
The K20A3 is found in the EP3 Si, and Base RSX which are both rated at 160hp. The K20A2 is found in the RSX-S which is rated at 200hp. The K20A is found in the Japanese RSX-R which is rated at 220hp. The new Si (FG2) is rated at 197hp and that engine code is the K20Z3.
The K20Z3 would be the worse choice of them all. It has the DBW system that you will have to deal with, the ECU is barely cracked right now by Hondata. They just have a flash.
If you are looking for FI, I would do the K20A2. NA, the JDM K20A

fventura03

iTrader: (1)

calm down tiger.

NoBottleJustThrottle

yea, ok squirt

fventura03

iTrader: (1)

UNBRE4K4BLE

i'll put a k series motor in my car when it doesn't cost $10k to do so.

fventura03

iTrader: (1)

then do it now, 4-5k

NoBottleJustThrottle

x2
You can do it for A LOT less than 10K.
Thats about what it cost me way back in the day.
Motor with all the fixings - $2000
Axles - $300
Mounts - $500??
Harness conversion - $300??
Radiator stuff - $500??
Intake - $100
Exhaust work - $150
Reflash - $100?? (mine was done for free)
Misc. - $500 (just in case)
Total - $4450 roughly

MidShipCivic

Even if you get an k20a3 head they still flow alot of air. I belive 200whp NA was made with it no problems with little mods.

Give it a chance if you dont have the $ to spend on the A2 head.

NoBottleJustThrottle

I believe the K24 is even cheaper than the K20A3 depending on which K24 you get (meaning from what car).

UNBRE4K4BLE

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NoBottleJustThrottle &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">x2
You can do it for A LOT less than 10K.
Thats about what it cost me way back in the day.
Motor with all the fixings - $2000
Axles - $300
Mounts - $500??
Harness conversion - $300??
Radiator stuff - $500??
Intake - $100
Exhaust work - $150
Reflash - $100?? (mine was done for free)
Misc. - $500 (just in case)
Total - $4450 roughly</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fventura03 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">then do it now, 4-5k</TD></TR></TABLE>

i know all the parts can be had for way less than 10k....the $10k i said was in reference to both parts and labor...i'm no honda technician.

NoBottleJustThrottle

find some friendly HT members to help you out. If you know which way to turn a wrench to take things off, and which way to put things on, you can pretty much figure out a swap. I was really scared doing mine too, but if you just take your time, you can do it. Label things, and read up on the boards helps too if you want to be even more careful. Its something that tought me the most about my car. I wouldnt trade that time for anything.
lol, come to think of it, before that, I didnt even want to change my headlight bulbs, or put a strut bar on. Now I switch intakes, suspension settings, take things apart and put them back together weekly.
BUT, even if that isnt for you...with the cost of parts (roughly $4500), labor should be less than $2000. Still less then $10K

UNBRE4K4BLE

the list of parts for the swap that i have adds up to roughly $3600. that's without the motor and tranny and k-pro and a hasport or other wiring harness.

i have no problem doing the labor myself for almost everything else on the car. i just have never swapped any motor into any chassis, let alone a k series into an em2...i'd be down to give it a shot if i could find someone remotely close to me that has some experience with it...

NoBottleJustThrottle

You dont NEED a k-pro to complete this swap. I would suggest just getting your car out on the road first, then upgrading after maybe you have saved some money up again.
I am sure if you go into the Hybrid section of this message board, you will find people in your area that would be willing to help.
The K swap isnt much different from a B. Especially in the EM2 chassis. HASport has made this swap pretty straight forward. This swap is a little (and I do mean little) bit harder in any other chassis (other than the DC5 chassis). You lucked out with your chassis. There is no guess work that needs to be done anymore, its all bolt in, and plug-and-play.

George Knighton

A K20A(*) DC5 ITR motor, with a Hondata and no other changes, will put down about 220 wheel HP.

No fancy intake, no fancy header. You can get by w/the cheap stuff, but don't skimp on the computer or the tuner.

This is what I'm getting with the K20A(*) that was transplanted into my DC2 ITR track car.

George Knighton

Here's a recent chart of my motor. On a Dynapak that's configured to read like the typical Dynojet.

Pnoymugen

pretty good numbers there George. Thats about in par with others with a k20a w/ minor mods. Is that w/ kpro / i/h/e?

George Knighton

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Pnoymugen &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">pretty good numbers there George. Thats about in par with others with a k20a w/ minor mods. Is that w/ kpro / i/h/e? </TD></TR></TABLE>
That is with a K Pro. The intake is just a filter on a stick.

The header is a cheap locum tenens from HASport. We conjectured that the header wouldn't make that big a difference. We know now from a conversation with Hondata that we should have bought a different header.

They recommend one in particular, but for the moment 220 HP is enough.

The exhaust is the same 2.5" SMSP exhaust that was used for the B motor. We just mated the new header to it.

6SPD_EK

iTrader: (2)

fully untuned (with street tuned a/f to run rich) base ITR k-pro program no tune to spark or cam angles. jdm type r k20a + Hytech header + RBC (k20z3) IM

notice how george's ^ peak power was before 8K & mine was still making power at 8300 - thats the RBC IM

fully tuned you can expect 230-240 whp with this set up

this dynopack reads 8-10% lower than dynojets

George Knighton

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by _adirondackR_ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
notice how george's ^ peak power was before 8K & mine was still making power at 8300 - </TD></TR></TABLE>
Yup. I'm actually usually shifting at 8000 and it's clear the power's falling off by then.

I'll only hold it beyond 8000 in a couple of places where the car's too unsettled to upshift and it's impossible to carry torque into the turn w/the next higher gear.

K20boiZ

$10k is nothing on a good swap and motor build. but k24 is definately the way to go. Alot more torque than the 2.0. I'm doing a k24a2 with k20 head rsx-s 6spd with custom turbo setup. when i had the k20a2 swap it made 237 with just basic bolt ons. with the stock k20 on 6psi it made around 340 conservatively. I expect pretty good numbers both on dyno and track time when I finish in about 6 weeks.