Super long: history of the hatch
06-14-2003, 08:41 AM
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Super long: history of the hatch
This is for the people that need to learn a bit more about cars, what it takes and how easy it actually is to make things happen with your car. Ill include basic pictures to show a little bit for visual enticement. If there are any questions just ask. Ill post pictures later.
At just over a year old this 1992 Honda Civic CX has been transformed into a very quick and reliable drag car. It was purchased for its lightweight chassis and huge aftermarket support. It had front end damage that was more cosmetic than anything. The front bumper was cracked and scratched. Both front fenders were not quite straight and the hood had a dent in it. Sounds like a perfect project car.
The first thing that was ordered was some new polyurethane bushings. One full day later and a little wore out, the job was complete. Heck, I figured with the car being 10 years old it could use new ones. About the next thing that I did was yank that stock motor out. Yeah it was sorta 16 second 1/4 mile quick but not quick enough. Luckily for me I just happen to have a 1998 Integra GSR motor sitting in my 1999 Civic EX coupe engine bay and I also had a 2000 Civic SI engine
sitting in my garage. Wow, now its the game of motor swaps.
Well, the GSR motor has more torque so I knew what was going where already. Out went the 98’ and I dropped in the 00’. Next came the tear down and inspection of the GSR motor. Upon having someone that I really trusted (Jim Devine of Devine Automotive and Machine DAM in Union Gap) with my beloved GSR motor tear it down and inspect it. He found that rod bearing #1 had “lost tension”, which in laymens terms means its about ready to lose a rod bearing. My original plan was to use all OEM Honda parts in the bottom end. Well that changed real quick upon micing (micrometer) the cylinder sleeves.
Upon inspection the sides of the cylinders were still under minimum Honda specifications, but on the “thrust” side of the cylinder it was over maximum. So I asked my machinist what he would recommend. He said he would rather have more to work with than less. So there went the idea of using OEM pistons. They only make them 1/4mm overbore. So in comes the next option, forged pistons from JE. We ordered them in 12.5:1 in 81.5mm. Alot of people ask me about what compression Im running and on what gas. I still run 92 octane from chevron with no additives. So, next I figured custom pistons?? well I have to get custom rods too. So there I was ordering up my Eagle H beam rods and JE pistons from Import Builders in Fullerton California. Lucky for me, they had all parts in stock and arrived in about 5 days. So now my machinist had something to work with. At this point I really start to study my Helms Factory Honda Manual and learn about the block itself. Geez, here I am lucky again. Honda encodes their blocks and the crank with bearing sizes. The block has the size of the mains and the crank contains the thickness of the mains and also contains the rods bearing sizes. Well no scarring or damage occurred to the crank so it was just match up the bearings on the chart. Once again I called IB for my parts. Once again 5 days later everything showed up. So now, here I was after Jim delivered my block to me with all these parts. Now it was time to find a place for assembly.
Where is the best place I have access to that is clean??? Guess what I came up with???.......................Assembly happened in my kitchen. Its indoors, clean and virtually dust free. My girlfriend Sarah went on strike for about a week while I assembled it. So my block is all clean and awaiting some parts. Here I am, a first time engine builder with a Helms and lots of parts. Engines are fairly easy to work on if u have the slightest clue what you are doing. First came assembly of the pistons and rods. Pretty straight forward, put C clip in piston end, lube wrist pin, slide wrist pin in, put other C clip in other side. Alright, piece of cake, now Im a pro. Next came ring installation. This was so easy, just like Honda recommends, JE unfortunately forgets our engines sit in sideways so ring placement was not right with the schematic they give you. Now its time for some serious work, piston/rod installation. Jim recommends coating the pistons with automatic tranny fluid. Clamp the heck outta the piston rings with the piston ring compressor and lightly tap the top of the piston with a rubber mallet or hammer. If and when they drop in, you will know it. One, two, three, four no problems there. Ahh the fun stuff, crank install and plastiguaging rod and main bearings. Alright, rod #1 all torqued down, placed the guage strip next to it. No problem, looked perfect. Rod #2, aww forget it, its a Honda with little to no wear. Plastiguaging mains??? Whats that for??? Needless to say I skipped all that other stuff. From there the block is basically assembled so I wont divulge my horsepower secrets.
Next it was bolting on the head. Am I lucky or what??? I forgot to mention that I had a spare ITR head I bought from Brian Wong (b18c1_powered_si) from San Franscisco California. To top it all off, the GSR motor I had in my coupe was already running full JUN 3 cams, retainers, valve springs and cam gears. So I swapped all that over to the ITR head. Since I had no problems with the install on my GSR head I moved everything over. Alot of people talk about install height on JUN cams. Install height, whats that??? Didnt even check it, just threw them in. So I bolted on the head and bolted the cams and cam rails on the motor. Dang, almost complete. Now I better bolt on the 00 SI B16 intake manifold that I had left over from another swap I did for a friend. Add the ITR red valve cover and the motor was assembled. Obviously after that I bolted on my ITR tranny I also got from Brian the year before. Time to drop it in the car.
It went smooth, easy to drop any motor into these 92 civics that was meant to bolt in. Now its time to start it up. I was told by a friend, if it didnt fire almost immediately find out what the problem is and fix it. Well, I turned the key let it crank for a second and darn almost fired up. Cranked it barely one more time and BOOM, SHE FIRED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! The beast had awoken finally after 5 months.
Next was to drive the car around and break it in. Needless to say I couldnt wait, 12 miles down the road I unleashed the motor from its docile state. Stock OBD1 GSR ECU just wasnt cutting it with a 4400 VTEC crossover. Damn thing fell on its face, but dang, after about 5K it went nuts. Ill skip a couple steps and get to the good stuff.
We have a local 1/8th mile track and upon its debut at the track the first pass I ran a 8.76@80mph. I was a little disappointed but I realized I only ran a 2.0 60ft. I knew there was more in the car and the launch. Soon after, I bought a P28 ECU also from Brian. The next time at the track was the 1/4 mile in Yakima at Renegade Raceway. This time though I had a new weapon in hand. A Skunk2 program I bought from Adrian at Hyperduckuning.com in the P28 ECU I bought. With the First pass I clicked off a 13.486@104MPH with a 2.1 60’. Not bad, I got into the 13s at least. Second pass blasted a 13.004@ 105 with a 1.9 60’. I was stoked. I was shooting for 12s NA at the time and just a microsecond away from it on Drag Radials. I clicked off 3 more 13.0? passes and 2 more 13.1? passes but couldnt break the 12 second barrier. What would remedy this situation??? SLICKS of course. So I ordered up a set of slicks for the hatch sized in 22/8/15 Mickey Thompsons.
The first chance I got to use them was at Spokane Raceway Park. First pass was a dissappointing 13.008@103. The elevation is higher so I attributed the slower MPH to that. But just like I hoped for the second pass netted me my first 12 second timeslip of 12.83@a tad under 104. Ahh the big event I had been waiting for all year. Even though the car was ugly it was fast and at Woodburn Oregon with low elevation I was hoping for even better timeslips. It only took 2 passes
to best myself with a 12.79 pass @104. Day 2 brought cooler temps and better times. Besting at 12.607@107. Not much to say but I was pleased with my very first true buildup of the internals of a motor. At the NHRA event, I was the fastest street legal NA Honda, which made me happy. i scanned the wrong timeslip from woodburn. i seemed to have misplaced the 12.607, but u get the idea.
Now that I had a decent running car it was time to get a bit more serious and lighten up the chassis. Over the winter of 02' I tore down the car and stripped it completely. The only things left were suspension to hold the car up, a steering wheel held in place with 1 bolt and a seat with the same. I thought I found a killer deal on a sawzall so I snatched it up. Next thing you know my front core supports fell off. Next, I scrounged up the money for my fiberglass front end, doors and
hatch (Matt @ speedmachineracing.com). Over the course of a day I meticulously installed the doors and front end. They fit suprisingly well. The hatch I wanted to remain functional for throwing stuff in it. So I rigged up a set of elastic on S hooks to hold the thing closed. Next it was off to the paint booth for a new color and some massaging of the body. As most people know the CX came with a body indention for side moldings but no moldings come on the car. Well since my
doors and front end doesnt have them why should I?? so in went the foam filler and a little bondo for good measure. It was then shot with a 1 stage paint (flakes easy dont use it) inside and then sprayed in a 4 stage stock Honda Prelude Pearl on the outside. Damn it turned out sweet.
Also over the course of this buildup I came across Skunk 2 coilovers (inlinefour.com), CTR crank pulley (Leo @JDMspecperf.com), ITR intake manifold (Dan@Godspeed.hack.net), ITR throttle body (JDMHONDAPARTS.com), full fuel system changeover (Jegs.com, Reid "Hondaddict" at Option R) Just about a month in advance of the first race locally, I got the car up and running finally. After 6 months of waiting and scrounging money it was time for the new lighter hatch to debut at the track.
Three hundred pounds lighter and a whole new look, the hatch was ready. I still decided the car needed some conservative launches so I was launching at 5500-6000. First pass was a horrible 8.52@85MPH with a crappy 2.1 60’. I couldnt figure out why the car wasnt pulling 60s and the end result was horrible times. I started getting the times down but it just wasnt breaking the 7 second mark. Finally on my 6th pass I broke the 7 second barrier. Realizing I was redlighting every pass made one of our officials thought my car might be too low. Crazy thing is, he was right. Over the course of the off season I purchased those Skunk2 coilovers and had them set at the lowest setting. Then I have a JDM DC 4-1 header which is super low in the front and tapers back up towards the body in the rear. What was happening is the header was actually tripping the staging
beam causing a redlight. Not only that but on the launch the car was lifting so then the tires would trip the 60’ mark. Too quick on the tree (ie header) breaking the 60’ mark with tires. Ahhh, that equates to my bad 60’s and bad times at the other end. The rest of the day I continued to learn a bit more about the car. I ended up besting a 7.8@85 MPH. I learned to use the slicks like they were intended. I started launching high and kept upping the RPM upon launch. I went from
running 1.8s on conservative launches (5.5-6K) to running upper 1.6s and lower 1.7s on 8K launches. Since that day was a Test and Tune I came back the next day to pull a first place victory in our Super Pro class.
The next event for me was the first 1/4 mile passes with the hatch a little lighter. Once again Yakimas Renegade was the place of choice. We trailered the hatch up dropped it off the trailer, went through tech and waited. I got up into the waterbox pulled through it, proceeded to do my burnout and was terribly nervous. I didnt do a very good burnout and I could tell that as soon as I launched. The tires didnt get heated enough to burn off the water and it slightly spun the tires. At the other end though I wasnt too disappointed pulling a 12.31@109 with a 1.78 60’. I knew there was more in the car and the launch. My second pass turned out better with a 12.28@106 on a 1.64 60’. Third qualifying pass was even better pulling a 12.15@109 with a 1.63 60’. That ended up being my best pass as I redlit and misshifted 2nd gear on my first round loss. I still pulled my best 1/8th mile time at the 1/4 mile track with a 7.67. I noticed in the 1/4 mile passes that the car wasnt pulling as well in 3rd and 4th gear. So the next week I took the car out on the backroads for some serious *** dynoing. In the upper RPM in 3rd and 4th gear I noticed power fall off. My guess was it might be fuel. I could just turn up the FPR
but I found some guys dont believe in fuel tuning through the FPR. So once again I made a call to Robert Martin ("Rocket" owner of EF-1) out in Los Angeles California. Robert said he would program me a chip for my P28 based on the type of mods I have on the motor. Weeks went by and no program. Finally my Rich("Speedz" of Speedz Tech Services) got ahold of Robert and instead of him programming my chip he sent my friend the program over the internet and within a couple days Rich had it programmed. The first program didnt work because the converter Rich used was a piece of crap. So about 2 days later Rich had another chip programmed and ready for testing. Since we dont have a dyno in our garages it was off to the backroad for some more *** dynoing. This time Rich hopped in and we went for an ride. We made 2 passes with my Skunk2 program then came back and swapped chips. Went out for another 2 passes and by far the car pulled even stronger. More fuel was added in this program and the redline was increased to 9600.
The proving ground would end up being the 1/8th mile once again. This time I changed my launch setup a bit different. Instead of running 6.5psi before burnout I chose 8psi to hopefully gain MPH at the other end. I ended up besting the local 1/8th mile at 7.7 but gained 2-3 MPH consistently. I could attribute it to the tire pressure but Id like to believe the program did it for me. Also the 60fts went up just a tad. So now Im running right at 89MPH in the 1/8th and today will b the proving ground for if it actually was the ECU or the tire pressure. Im going to go back to the 6.5psi and if the car still pulls 89MPH trap speeds I can attribute the MPH directly to the ECU.
Modified by 1 2 NV at 2:10 PM 6/15/2003
At just over a year old this 1992 Honda Civic CX has been transformed into a very quick and reliable drag car. It was purchased for its lightweight chassis and huge aftermarket support. It had front end damage that was more cosmetic than anything. The front bumper was cracked and scratched. Both front fenders were not quite straight and the hood had a dent in it. Sounds like a perfect project car.
The first thing that was ordered was some new polyurethane bushings. One full day later and a little wore out, the job was complete. Heck, I figured with the car being 10 years old it could use new ones. About the next thing that I did was yank that stock motor out. Yeah it was sorta 16 second 1/4 mile quick but not quick enough. Luckily for me I just happen to have a 1998 Integra GSR motor sitting in my 1999 Civic EX coupe engine bay and I also had a 2000 Civic SI engine
sitting in my garage. Wow, now its the game of motor swaps.
Well, the GSR motor has more torque so I knew what was going where already. Out went the 98’ and I dropped in the 00’. Next came the tear down and inspection of the GSR motor. Upon having someone that I really trusted (Jim Devine of Devine Automotive and Machine DAM in Union Gap) with my beloved GSR motor tear it down and inspect it. He found that rod bearing #1 had “lost tension”, which in laymens terms means its about ready to lose a rod bearing. My original plan was to use all OEM Honda parts in the bottom end. Well that changed real quick upon micing (micrometer) the cylinder sleeves.
Upon inspection the sides of the cylinders were still under minimum Honda specifications, but on the “thrust” side of the cylinder it was over maximum. So I asked my machinist what he would recommend. He said he would rather have more to work with than less. So there went the idea of using OEM pistons. They only make them 1/4mm overbore. So in comes the next option, forged pistons from JE. We ordered them in 12.5:1 in 81.5mm. Alot of people ask me about what compression Im running and on what gas. I still run 92 octane from chevron with no additives. So, next I figured custom pistons?? well I have to get custom rods too. So there I was ordering up my Eagle H beam rods and JE pistons from Import Builders in Fullerton California. Lucky for me, they had all parts in stock and arrived in about 5 days. So now my machinist had something to work with. At this point I really start to study my Helms Factory Honda Manual and learn about the block itself. Geez, here I am lucky again. Honda encodes their blocks and the crank with bearing sizes. The block has the size of the mains and the crank contains the thickness of the mains and also contains the rods bearing sizes. Well no scarring or damage occurred to the crank so it was just match up the bearings on the chart. Once again I called IB for my parts. Once again 5 days later everything showed up. So now, here I was after Jim delivered my block to me with all these parts. Now it was time to find a place for assembly.
Where is the best place I have access to that is clean??? Guess what I came up with???.......................Assembly happened in my kitchen. Its indoors, clean and virtually dust free. My girlfriend Sarah went on strike for about a week while I assembled it. So my block is all clean and awaiting some parts. Here I am, a first time engine builder with a Helms and lots of parts. Engines are fairly easy to work on if u have the slightest clue what you are doing. First came assembly of the pistons and rods. Pretty straight forward, put C clip in piston end, lube wrist pin, slide wrist pin in, put other C clip in other side. Alright, piece of cake, now Im a pro. Next came ring installation. This was so easy, just like Honda recommends, JE unfortunately forgets our engines sit in sideways so ring placement was not right with the schematic they give you. Now its time for some serious work, piston/rod installation. Jim recommends coating the pistons with automatic tranny fluid. Clamp the heck outta the piston rings with the piston ring compressor and lightly tap the top of the piston with a rubber mallet or hammer. If and when they drop in, you will know it. One, two, three, four no problems there. Ahh the fun stuff, crank install and plastiguaging rod and main bearings. Alright, rod #1 all torqued down, placed the guage strip next to it. No problem, looked perfect. Rod #2, aww forget it, its a Honda with little to no wear. Plastiguaging mains??? Whats that for??? Needless to say I skipped all that other stuff. From there the block is basically assembled so I wont divulge my horsepower secrets.
Next it was bolting on the head. Am I lucky or what??? I forgot to mention that I had a spare ITR head I bought from Brian Wong (b18c1_powered_si) from San Franscisco California. To top it all off, the GSR motor I had in my coupe was already running full JUN 3 cams, retainers, valve springs and cam gears. So I swapped all that over to the ITR head. Since I had no problems with the install on my GSR head I moved everything over. Alot of people talk about install height on JUN cams. Install height, whats that??? Didnt even check it, just threw them in. So I bolted on the head and bolted the cams and cam rails on the motor. Dang, almost complete. Now I better bolt on the 00 SI B16 intake manifold that I had left over from another swap I did for a friend. Add the ITR red valve cover and the motor was assembled. Obviously after that I bolted on my ITR tranny I also got from Brian the year before. Time to drop it in the car.
It went smooth, easy to drop any motor into these 92 civics that was meant to bolt in. Now its time to start it up. I was told by a friend, if it didnt fire almost immediately find out what the problem is and fix it. Well, I turned the key let it crank for a second and darn almost fired up. Cranked it barely one more time and BOOM, SHE FIRED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! The beast had awoken finally after 5 months.
Next was to drive the car around and break it in. Needless to say I couldnt wait, 12 miles down the road I unleashed the motor from its docile state. Stock OBD1 GSR ECU just wasnt cutting it with a 4400 VTEC crossover. Damn thing fell on its face, but dang, after about 5K it went nuts. Ill skip a couple steps and get to the good stuff.
We have a local 1/8th mile track and upon its debut at the track the first pass I ran a 8.76@80mph. I was a little disappointed but I realized I only ran a 2.0 60ft. I knew there was more in the car and the launch. Soon after, I bought a P28 ECU also from Brian. The next time at the track was the 1/4 mile in Yakima at Renegade Raceway. This time though I had a new weapon in hand. A Skunk2 program I bought from Adrian at Hyperduckuning.com in the P28 ECU I bought. With the First pass I clicked off a 13.486@104MPH with a 2.1 60’. Not bad, I got into the 13s at least. Second pass blasted a 13.004@ 105 with a 1.9 60’. I was stoked. I was shooting for 12s NA at the time and just a microsecond away from it on Drag Radials. I clicked off 3 more 13.0? passes and 2 more 13.1? passes but couldnt break the 12 second barrier. What would remedy this situation??? SLICKS of course. So I ordered up a set of slicks for the hatch sized in 22/8/15 Mickey Thompsons.
The first chance I got to use them was at Spokane Raceway Park. First pass was a dissappointing 13.008@103. The elevation is higher so I attributed the slower MPH to that. But just like I hoped for the second pass netted me my first 12 second timeslip of 12.83@a tad under 104. Ahh the big event I had been waiting for all year. Even though the car was ugly it was fast and at Woodburn Oregon with low elevation I was hoping for even better timeslips. It only took 2 passes
to best myself with a 12.79 pass @104. Day 2 brought cooler temps and better times. Besting at 12.607@107. Not much to say but I was pleased with my very first true buildup of the internals of a motor. At the NHRA event, I was the fastest street legal NA Honda, which made me happy. i scanned the wrong timeslip from woodburn. i seemed to have misplaced the 12.607, but u get the idea.
Now that I had a decent running car it was time to get a bit more serious and lighten up the chassis. Over the winter of 02' I tore down the car and stripped it completely. The only things left were suspension to hold the car up, a steering wheel held in place with 1 bolt and a seat with the same. I thought I found a killer deal on a sawzall so I snatched it up. Next thing you know my front core supports fell off. Next, I scrounged up the money for my fiberglass front end, doors and
hatch (Matt @ speedmachineracing.com). Over the course of a day I meticulously installed the doors and front end. They fit suprisingly well. The hatch I wanted to remain functional for throwing stuff in it. So I rigged up a set of elastic on S hooks to hold the thing closed. Next it was off to the paint booth for a new color and some massaging of the body. As most people know the CX came with a body indention for side moldings but no moldings come on the car. Well since my
doors and front end doesnt have them why should I?? so in went the foam filler and a little bondo for good measure. It was then shot with a 1 stage paint (flakes easy dont use it) inside and then sprayed in a 4 stage stock Honda Prelude Pearl on the outside. Damn it turned out sweet.
Also over the course of this buildup I came across Skunk 2 coilovers (inlinefour.com), CTR crank pulley (Leo @JDMspecperf.com), ITR intake manifold (Dan@Godspeed.hack.net), ITR throttle body (JDMHONDAPARTS.com), full fuel system changeover (Jegs.com, Reid "Hondaddict" at Option R) Just about a month in advance of the first race locally, I got the car up and running finally. After 6 months of waiting and scrounging money it was time for the new lighter hatch to debut at the track.
Three hundred pounds lighter and a whole new look, the hatch was ready. I still decided the car needed some conservative launches so I was launching at 5500-6000. First pass was a horrible 8.52@85MPH with a crappy 2.1 60’. I couldnt figure out why the car wasnt pulling 60s and the end result was horrible times. I started getting the times down but it just wasnt breaking the 7 second mark. Finally on my 6th pass I broke the 7 second barrier. Realizing I was redlighting every pass made one of our officials thought my car might be too low. Crazy thing is, he was right. Over the course of the off season I purchased those Skunk2 coilovers and had them set at the lowest setting. Then I have a JDM DC 4-1 header which is super low in the front and tapers back up towards the body in the rear. What was happening is the header was actually tripping the staging
beam causing a redlight. Not only that but on the launch the car was lifting so then the tires would trip the 60’ mark. Too quick on the tree (ie header) breaking the 60’ mark with tires. Ahhh, that equates to my bad 60’s and bad times at the other end. The rest of the day I continued to learn a bit more about the car. I ended up besting a 7.8@85 MPH. I learned to use the slicks like they were intended. I started launching high and kept upping the RPM upon launch. I went from
running 1.8s on conservative launches (5.5-6K) to running upper 1.6s and lower 1.7s on 8K launches. Since that day was a Test and Tune I came back the next day to pull a first place victory in our Super Pro class.
The next event for me was the first 1/4 mile passes with the hatch a little lighter. Once again Yakimas Renegade was the place of choice. We trailered the hatch up dropped it off the trailer, went through tech and waited. I got up into the waterbox pulled through it, proceeded to do my burnout and was terribly nervous. I didnt do a very good burnout and I could tell that as soon as I launched. The tires didnt get heated enough to burn off the water and it slightly spun the tires. At the other end though I wasnt too disappointed pulling a 12.31@109 with a 1.78 60’. I knew there was more in the car and the launch. My second pass turned out better with a 12.28@106 on a 1.64 60’. Third qualifying pass was even better pulling a 12.15@109 with a 1.63 60’. That ended up being my best pass as I redlit and misshifted 2nd gear on my first round loss. I still pulled my best 1/8th mile time at the 1/4 mile track with a 7.67. I noticed in the 1/4 mile passes that the car wasnt pulling as well in 3rd and 4th gear. So the next week I took the car out on the backroads for some serious *** dynoing. In the upper RPM in 3rd and 4th gear I noticed power fall off. My guess was it might be fuel. I could just turn up the FPR
but I found some guys dont believe in fuel tuning through the FPR. So once again I made a call to Robert Martin ("Rocket" owner of EF-1) out in Los Angeles California. Robert said he would program me a chip for my P28 based on the type of mods I have on the motor. Weeks went by and no program. Finally my Rich("Speedz" of Speedz Tech Services) got ahold of Robert and instead of him programming my chip he sent my friend the program over the internet and within a couple days Rich had it programmed. The first program didnt work because the converter Rich used was a piece of crap. So about 2 days later Rich had another chip programmed and ready for testing. Since we dont have a dyno in our garages it was off to the backroad for some more *** dynoing. This time Rich hopped in and we went for an ride. We made 2 passes with my Skunk2 program then came back and swapped chips. Went out for another 2 passes and by far the car pulled even stronger. More fuel was added in this program and the redline was increased to 9600.
The proving ground would end up being the 1/8th mile once again. This time I changed my launch setup a bit different. Instead of running 6.5psi before burnout I chose 8psi to hopefully gain MPH at the other end. I ended up besting the local 1/8th mile at 7.7 but gained 2-3 MPH consistently. I could attribute it to the tire pressure but Id like to believe the program did it for me. Also the 60fts went up just a tad. So now Im running right at 89MPH in the 1/8th and today will b the proving ground for if it actually was the ECU or the tire pressure. Im going to go back to the 6.5psi and if the car still pulls 89MPH trap speeds I can attribute the MPH directly to the ECU.
Modified by 1 2 NV at 2:10 PM 6/15/2003
06-14-2003, 11:10 AM
#5
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Re: Super long: history of the hatch (1 2 NV)
You have the white hatch posted here a few weeks ago, right?
If so, the looks of that car are awesome! Its actually my favorite around here. Clean and concise.
Your times are spectacular. You really did a niice job in the build up and I say way to go
If so, the looks of that car are awesome! Its actually my favorite around here. Clean and concise.
Your times are spectacular. You really did a niice job in the build up and I say way to go
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06-14-2003, 12:59 PM
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Re: (Eddie HatchBlack)
I don't believe I just read all that! Good story, but I have to ask, did you give the motor a break in period? Good right up though!! 
06-15-2003, 07:15 AM
#12
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Re: (WiDeBoDyEK)
i apologize for the long post guys. what i was trying to is show everyone that if u make realistic goals for urself and ur car u can do them. theres lots of misgivings about tuning and whatnot. obviously a tuned car should/would run faster. but im no where near a dyno so i sorta "winged" it. i sorta wrote it for "inspiration" to the guys that dont have alot of money and if anything else just for pure info for their projects.
my car is far from the fastest in the country but its pretty quick. currently its the second fastest residing in washington state thats NA. the fastest car has ran an 11.7 but at 3Xs the price tag for everything. my car still utilizes alot of stock parts. almost stock bore, stock tranny, stock FD, stock head, exhaust all the way back to the rear axle. i could imagine u can see where im goin with this. i could build this for less money but if ur "thrifty" with ur money and make wise purchases u can b well on ur way to makin ur car what u want it to b.
my car is far from the fastest in the country but its pretty quick. currently its the second fastest residing in washington state thats NA. the fastest car has ran an 11.7 but at 3Xs the price tag for everything. my car still utilizes alot of stock parts. almost stock bore, stock tranny, stock FD, stock head, exhaust all the way back to the rear axle. i could imagine u can see where im goin with this. i could build this for less money but if ur "thrifty" with ur money and make wise purchases u can b well on ur way to makin ur car what u want it to b.
06-15-2003, 07:46 AM
#14
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Re: (SiR831)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SiR831 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So about how much have you invested in this project? Ya this post is pretty motivational considering that i also have a 93 CX </TD></TR></TABLE>
total top to bottom front to back including car is about 12k.[
</TD></TR></TABLE> total top to bottom front to back including car is about 12k.[
06-15-2003, 08:14 AM
#17
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Re: (1 2 NV)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1 2 NV »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
total top to bottom front to back including car is about 12k.[</TD></TR></TABLE>
Can you break it down? I'm thinking about doing the same thing, but money is tight. So I want to see what parts I can get for now with the money I saved.
Thanks man.
total top to bottom front to back including car is about 12k.[</TD></TR></TABLE>
Can you break it down? I'm thinking about doing the same thing, but money is tight. So I want to see what parts I can get for now with the money I saved.
Thanks man.
06-15-2003, 08:47 AM
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I think you should get a Hondata and some real dyno time. Real tuning should not be skimped on, especiallly on a full race car. Nice car and post BTW. 
06-15-2003, 08:51 AM
#21
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Re: (Eddie HatchBlack)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Eddie HatchBlack »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Love the story.</TD></TR></TABLE>
nice
Love the story.</TD></TR></TABLE>
nice
06-15-2003, 11:16 AM
#25
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Re: (Skeletor)
yes my sn used to b hondaatwsu.
i could break it down but it would b a pain. about 7k into entire motor/head/tranny/machine work. 1300 for car. the rest to paint/body/fiberglass.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Skeletor »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think you should get a Hondata and some real dyno time. Real tuning should not be skimped on, especiallly on a full race car. Nice car and post BTW. </TD></TR></TABLE>
actually there was a mobile dyno (TNT dyno services everett, wa) about 30 miles away today. we went up there and low and behold we passed him heading home on the highway. so i honked and sent my friend after him. rich (speedz) caught up to him and pulled over. so he will b in our area next week again and we r goin to set aside time for my car. its a mobile dynojet 248.
i agree though dyno time should not b skimped on. until last weekend i didnt have a trailer and the closest dyno was 3 hrs away. i dont know how much dyno time costs elsewhere, but the dyno in spokane (3hrs) is 150 an hr. i thought that was pretty expensive. i should b able to get dyno time for around $75 an hr with this guy and ill tune my own car. friday im goin to renegade for "import night" to hopefully blast a 11 second pass and pack my bags for no cage, 5pt harness, scattershield and fire jacket.
i could break it down but it would b a pain. about 7k into entire motor/head/tranny/machine work. 1300 for car. the rest to paint/body/fiberglass.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Skeletor »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think you should get a Hondata and some real dyno time. Real tuning should not be skimped on, especiallly on a full race car. Nice car and post BTW.
</TD></TR></TABLE>actually there was a mobile dyno (TNT dyno services everett, wa) about 30 miles away today. we went up there and low and behold we passed him heading home on the highway. so i honked and sent my friend after him. rich (speedz) caught up to him and pulled over. so he will b in our area next week again and we r goin to set aside time for my car. its a mobile dynojet 248.
i agree though dyno time should not b skimped on. until last weekend i didnt have a trailer and the closest dyno was 3 hrs away. i dont know how much dyno time costs elsewhere, but the dyno in spokane (3hrs) is 150 an hr. i thought that was pretty expensive. i should b able to get dyno time for around $75 an hr with this guy and ill tune my own car. friday im goin to renegade for "import night" to hopefully blast a 11 second pass and pack my bags for no cage, 5pt harness, scattershield and fire jacket.