M-train

I've got a 2000 Accord, 4cyl, auto that I just rebuilt the transmission.

Transmission goes into gear just fine, drives down my 50 yard driveway fine, but I get a flare on the 1/2 upshift.

There is a solenoid that is located at the front of the transmission that had a wire going into the connection come loose.

This solenoid is on the firewall side of the trans where the trans connects to the engine. Its under the intake manifold, and its very hard to see.

Is that the 2nd clutch solenoid?

I've been building transmissions for many years, mostly back in the 80/90's, so I am by no means a rookie.

Here are my thoughts since the trans goes into gear, and drives I don't think its the torque convertor, and since it only does this during the 1/2 upshift I don't think I left out a clutch.

So what is that particular solenoid, and does it control the upshift from 1-2?

slomofo

iTrader: (1)

I think you may be referring to the countershaft speed sensor?

M-train

Thanks. I have that diagram, and I was going to post it, but does look like that is the 2nd clutch pressure switch.

slomofo

iTrader: (1)

No, it looks completely different. I have an accord transmission here, I'll try to snap some pics to show you the difference.

slomofo

iTrader: (1)

Alright so the countershaft speed sensor is missing on this trans but you can see the difference by the mounting hole. First pic counter shaft, second pic pressure switch....

Sent from my Nokia 5190 using IB AutoGroup

M-train

That looks like it [second pic].

The wire on the connector got pulled out when I pulled the engine/trans so I'm betting that might be the problem. [I did push the wire back in, and glued it]

What do you think?

xci_ed6

depends on where the break is and the type of glue

M-train

No, I mean does anyone think that could be the problem?

xci_ed6

you'd get a MIL/CEL code for that.

M-train

From what I read these transmissions are bad to crack the clutch drums. [its usually the drums that have the burned up clutches]

Sadly I only checked the splined part of the drums where the shaft enters, so that may well be a possibility.

A mistake I will learn from..............

M-train

Let me back up a minute here.

I was having problems with the engine. It wouldn't rev past 2k rpms. If you floored the throttle the engine would die. [when I rebuilt the trans I pulled both the trans, and the engine.

It was during this time that the transmission had the flare.

The problem with the engine was that I had the throttle body wires backwards [most car makers make their electrical connections so that a connection will fit ONLY what its supposed to fit].

After I fixed the wires back correctly I wasn't able to drive the car due to the snow we got down here.

So today I drove down our long driveway, and the car shifts into second just fine, BUT now when I stop with the car in gear the engine, or trans shudders then dies.

If I throw it into neutral it will stay running, or if its in reverse it stays running.

I still haven't soldered in that 2nd clutch switch wire [I actually don't even know that its not making a connection], but I will do that tomorrow.

Any idea's?

xci_ed6

that's probably a stall, like you get from a manual trans and you dump the clutch at idle.

Try unplugging the torque converter lockup clutch solenoid, wherever that is.

It should act like an old car, but I would investigate that because MPG will suck.

M-train

Thanks I will give it a try, and report back tomorrow.

M-train

Ok, today I cut the number one wire that is supposed to go to the TC lock.

The car would rev quite a bit then start moving. I drove down the road just fine, but there was no gear change.

So when I got back home I reconnected the wire, and drove it down the road again.

This time it went through all of the gears, and did have a little flare between the 1-2 upshift and a very, very slight flare between 2-3.

I did put two quarts of "comparable" trans fluid when I pulled the trans the second time, and I'm almost betting that its now the fluid that is making the slight flare [of course it could be the TC gone bad].

However, when in gear the engine don't shutter, and die, so go figure? Might have been some air in the system, etc, I've had that happen with some of the older Ford transmissions back in the day [after a full rebuild].

So, I'm going to drain the fluid, and buy some trans fluid from the Honda place this coming Monday. I will report back then.

xci_ed6

lol, yeah, there is no 'comparable'. The Honda trans is -VERY- different than -ANY- others. Basically, there are no planetary gears, so there are no 'comparable' fluids. It takes ~9qt, you can drain ~3qt, so you need to change it ~5 times to 'refresh' it.

I usually do it ~3 times when I get a 'new' (used) car, then I do a D&F every ~10k miles (depending on the car). I'm still rolling solid, 230k miles on the clock, with everything stock.

M-train

You know I didn't even catch that about the trans missing the planetary gears until you mentioned it.

As far as transmissions go, the Honda trans looked pretty simple when i had it apart.

xci_ed6

It does look simple!

That's because it is simple

MAD_MIKE

That is the second gear pressure switch, if it is faulty it will cause delayed, flared and harsh shifts from 1-2 and 2-1.
Nope.
2nd(P1738/25) gear and 3rd(P1739/26) gear pressure switch faults do not illuminate the D4 or CEL lamps, ever.
Only way to know there is something wrong would be to check for codes, if the CEL/D4 lamps are faulty you will only be able to read the codes by fixing the lamps or using an OBDII code reader.



Fix all the engine problems first.
If the engine is not running correctly this will affect how the transmission operates.

M-train

The engine runs fine except for a blown inner dist seal that I just ordered. The only problem I had was that two conns on the throttle body were backwards. After they were changed back the engine issues were gone.

Ok, I'm not able to drive the car since the dizzy is out, but I did get the 2nd clutch switch out [not to be confused with solenoid C for which I checked, and found good].

According to what I read the switch is supposed to be 10m ohms, or better to be considered "good".

My clutch switch tested infinity on a 20M ohm scale so I don't know if that is bad, or good since all I have been able to read is that the switch must read more than 10M ohm.

MAD_MIKE

The pressure switch can fail by leaking, or by being gummed up with debris/slurry.

xci_ed6

yeah, check the codes

why I asked for codes...

btw, I ditched my actual scanner, switched to these:



and my phone. They aren't great, now I'm on #3, in 5 years. They are cheap as hell, less than $20 each verses the cost of my actual scanner ($250+!!!), and portability, since I scan with my phone, and I carry that anyway. Use 'Torque' if you have Android.

M-train

I havent done a recent scan, but there were no codes for the clutch switch.

However, a guy on another forum said that with only one given perimeter for testing the switch, above 10m ohms, it could still be bad as in open.

So I'm going to buy another switch as its easy to install while the dizzys out.

I promise I will get back and post the results as I hate to see threads like these where there is no posting of the cure to the problem............Right now I've got to deal with ICEOPOCOLYPSE 2015.........lol.

M-train

Well I got the new pressure switch in today, and it also measured infinity. I did solder on a new connector so it shouldn't pull off like the old broken conn.

I'm still waiting on the dizzy seal so I can't crank or drive the car. So that is about all for now.

holmesnmanny

Why are you testing the clutch switch for ohms ? You just need to test for continuity.

It's either going to have continuity or not. The switch just opens or closes.

M-train

Just trying to make sure of everything. The switch could be stuck open. {I did check for continuity].

Here is the test.