TwistedEX

Okay so I've got this '96 Accord auto w/f22b motor. When I start the car cold it comes down to idle after a bit just like normal. If I go somewhere and let it sit for 3 hours or so and start it up, it comes down to idle like normal. If the motors warm and I turn it off and 5 min or so later turn it back on, it starts and dies unless I give it a little throttle pedal. I've cleaned the IACV per the how-to on this site. I didn't clean the FITV, because when cold it starts and comes down to idle like normal, and the car doesn't stall when the wipers/headlights/defrost/etc. are turned on. The car has idled at what I would consider a low idle (about 500 rpms by the dash gauge) since I got it. I tried to adjust the idle screw per the manual (warm motor, turn off car, unplug IACV, turn car on, adjust screw out till car runs and idles at 500rpms, turn off car, plug in IACV), but I had the screw backed out 4 whole turns before the car would stay running. This didn't seem right so I just screwed it back in 4 turns to where it was.

I did some searching on the 'net and came up with this post:

"As far as I know (and this a common problem with the old civics, preludes, integras) this is not related really to hot weather or the heater being on. Its a hot starting issue. i.e

Car has been sat still for a period of time with the engine off, come to use it, starts first time on the button.

Drive said car for a while - prime example pop into the garage for some Petrol. Turn engine off. Fill car up. Pay for fuel. Get back into it and go to start it. The starter motor turns the engine over, but the engine doesn't catch. Why? No fuel. Why no fuel, none is being pumped.

When you put the key to the second position (i.e. all the lights on the dashboard come on) you should be able to hear the fuel pump priming the system. When I had my VTI, si Vtec, I wouldn't actually go to start the car until I'd heard prime."

Problem is, the car starts and runs for like a second then stalls, so I don't know if this is my problem.

Any suggestions are appreciated.

delsolproblems

Check your MAP sensor output voltage at idle once the car has reached normal operating temperature. Post the voltage reading and what RPM the motor was at when you tested it.

TwistedEX

Will do tomorrow afternoon, kinda late now. Got hooked reading through that huge Accord post with the ITBs and reverse opening hood. ;-p

NashvegasCg

ignition inconsistency. that's my two cents

dagle

iTrader: (1)

have a similar problem and it could be that your spark plugs are wet fouled from the infamous spark plug tube O-ring and grommet. Mine would have a hard time starting, then it would stall itself and have similar symptoms to a BHG. But after a fresh set of plugs (though it didn't fix the problem as oil is still seeping in) its running beautifully.

delsolproblems

If the ignition were to blame for his problem, it would be worse during cold starts rather than better. In this case, the cold start helps the issue because the extra air supplied for fast idle makes a small vacuum leak less or not noticeable.

TwistedEX

Okay, its been a somewhat eventful week. First thing I did was take out the main relay and re-solder the two connections that have to do with the fuel pump a la:

http://techauto.awardspace.com/mainrelay.html

This seems to have fixed the warm start problem entirely. One of the connections looked pretty rough (its so hard to see cracks in solder). I've run around town with the heater on full blast, gotten out, gotten back in 10 minutes later and no stalls.

Now on to the persistently low idle. I checked the MAP sensor today following the Haynes manual and my digital volt-meter.

Reference voltage (with the key "on") to the MAP was 4.9 volts (supposed to be 5, close enough).

Voltage to the "signal wire" with the key on was 2.9 volts (supposed to be 1.5 to 3.5).

Started the engine and checked the signal voltage, it was .93 volts at warm idle. Gave the throttle a little "blip", the voltage peaked at 2.9 then sharply fell to .80 volts. I held the throttle open at around 2500 rpms and the voltage steadied at around .7 to .8 volts.

One thing to keep in mind. Instead of back-probing the green/white (ground) wire I used a sanded off part of the intake manifold. Should this affect my readings? Ground is ground right? In the manual they show a picture with the ground wire of the voltmeter connected to a ground point off to the left so...

I do need to replace the spark plug tube gaskets, as the end of every plug wire has a half-inch of oil on it.

Thanks again.

TwistedEX

Any help Delsol? BTW, going by the dash the RPMs were around 500. It was on the hash between 0 and 1000.

204civic

I had the exact same problem as you, i had all the problems that you described. And i fixed the low idle issue but not the warm start issue.
For me it was caused by a bad rad cap and im not sure why, ever since i changed it. The idle has improved