i20ar

welli went to change my oil..and i find my out driver side cv boot is ripped.. i dunno for how long its been like that.. i havent noticed anynoise from it ... but i dunno... so im going to replace the axle... but i dont have the time today. becase i need to go to work... would it be ok to drive it sine im going to replace it anyways? just for today.. my work is onlly about 15 miles away and its not raining over here.. what damages might occur<sp>? i think ill replace this myself..

cany any give some tips on how to do this?
is this the correct way? https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=413230 or is it missing somthing?
anytips apreciated.. thnx

i20ar

hellllppp... i have work at 4pm... only 2.5 hours away..

Schmitey

You'll be fine man, the problem comes from people driving in the rain and getting sand and crap in there. Trust me from working at a tire shop folks drive on split CV boots all the time. Like you said you're replacing it anyways...

It would help if we knew what you had!

As far as suggestions try to find a Helms if you can but its really not that hard. Your biggest pain in the *** is gonna come from the lower ball joints. Avoid the urge to use a fork like puller (you can usually borrow pullers from a parts place) unless you feel like replacing perfectly good ball joints. The type you want pushes up from the bottom, however I've never gotten one of these to actually work. Best thing my dad (a mechanically inclined mechanical engineer) and I could find was a pneumatic hammer. Loosen the nut on the balljoint (leave it on so you can repair any bent threads) and use a punch to make a dimple on the center of the balljoint. Use lots of WD-40 and keep it centered on the balljoint with high air pressure and it'll pop right out. We wrapped chains around the whole assembly and put a 3 ton jack on it and wouldn't budge!!!

Also you'll find you can't be too gentle with axles. The easy part is popping it out of the axle/intermediate shaft (you didn't say which side) the hard part is popping it out of the rusted up hub. You'll need a huge socket for the wheel nut that you'll probably have to borrow or buy. When you loosen the nut (you'll have a core charge and to preserve your new axle) leave it threaded on so you can fix any bent threads while pounding it out of the hub/into the tranny. This will keep you from ruining a perfectly good axle like my friend did by not using a rubber/plastic mallet. When pushing/pulling on the axle do not grab the shaft itself, instead grab the CV assembly otherwise you can pull it out and you might not be able to manipulate it back together. Other than that its pretty straight forward!

i20ar

im sorry about not letting you know waht i have i thought i had the info in my sig.. but i guess i took it out... its a 96 5speed.. and i thought i sayed it was the drivers side outer boot but maybe i forgot that to.... thanx for the respond.. i didnt quit catch everything you sayed... so ill have to re read it again...

but from what i understood.. i would need

a puller, hammer, large socket (size?), new axle.. anything else

i dont under stand what a (CORE CHARGE) is... please explain..

and what did you mean buy leaving the nut so i can fix bent threads?

sorry for the questions but im going ot try to get this done maybe tonight when i get out at 11pm or early 2mrw morning i just want to get everything right..

Schmitey

No problem

The axle nut that keeps the axle tight up against the hub is pretty huge. I want to say its like 36 mm but don't trust that when it comes to renting/buying it. A large wrench will not work either. As I mentioned with the pneumatic hammer if you have access to air tools it will make you life a lot easier, otherwise you'll probably want someone to stand on the brake to keep the hub from spinning.

The all important keeping the nut threaded on (a good practice for anything that involves pounding on nuts/bolts or cutting bolts shorter) acts to repair bent threads. If the threads are bent even on the very tip you will never get a nut on it. If you thread a nut from the opposite side or just screw it a half inch down before you pound on it you can always unscrew it and as you do fix the threads. Trust me it can save you many headaches if you think a little ahead.

Core charge: As with most expensive parts some component of it can be salvaged and rebuilt (AC compressors, alternator, brake caliper/master or slave cylinders, starters, axles, water/ power steering pumps...). As a result a parts place gets money when they sell cores back to A1-Cardone or whoever that rebuilds these parts. For example: The axle may cost you $125 straight up, after you swap it out and you keep your receipt you can probably return it and get $25 some back and only cost you $100 in the end. Keep an eye on this, most parts places will quote you that axle for $100 even though it'll cost you $125 initially. And...if you ruin the threads on it and someone catches it you might not get your core charge back.

If this is your first axle job I'd plan on hmm...maybe 3-4 hours. Something always goes wrong so if you say 2 it'll turn into 4. Like I said get a manual cuz I can't begin to explain everything. I will tell you that this generation of accord is about as easy as it gets to swap axles, you really don't have to mess with the suspension other than I think 3 bolts!

HandoEX

I went six months on a torn boot I may have been lucky but I didn't replace the axle until the clicking started.

i20ar

ic.. i have a haynes manual.. hopefully it wil work.. i just wanted sum experienced input from you guys.. well i further inspected it.. the tear is not more than half way around the circumfrence of the boot and there was stil a lot of grease.. so if any, minimal dirt has gotten in there.. i live in the suburb area so there isnt sandy roads like it would by the beach.. and there isnt much dirt on the road since theres nuthing but houses and builldings around... and im sorta broke since chrismass just passed..

so im thinking of just replaced the boot for a temp fix.. for this month.. is the procces of accessing the boot the same?

P_Adams

When you go to insert the inner Tri-Pot outer shell (during the new install), make sure the snap ring seats in the transmission. There have been a few thru here that had it disconnect while driving, because it wasn't properly seated.
Between the sudden loss of power, and the noise from it whipping around, I don't know what would be worst.

P

Driving it a few days should not cause it to fail (assuming it's truly not making noise).

edited for silly spelling errors


Modified by P_Adams at 1:05 AM 12/28/2005

JonnySBeee...

im not joking when i say ive been driving with both cv boots ripped for like a year no joke. im going to replace it this friday due to the fact my car makes weird noises now

Schmitey

I don't know what all you mean by replacing the CV boot. It can be done don't get me wrong but it still involves taking the axle off and in many cases more work than a simple swap. If you're thinking the universal cheap *** CV boots forget it. You'll notice they have a huge slit right down them and will be worst off than the torn ones you currently have.

Could be wrong but I don't think my Haynes has an axle disassembly walkthrough...

Like I said it's your call, but you might opt to just say screw it and replace the whole axle. I really don't know how much money you'd save in the end, nor do you know how much damage if any may have occured to the CV joint.