scubacamper

Try checking your fuel pressure and cylinder compression

LandHard

I think I might have made a critical error, maybe someone here can back this up. In the multiple times that I removed the distributor cap and rotor while I was swapping out ICMs (several times yesterday) I think I mistakenly left the rotor off before putting the cap back on then attempting to start the car. The thing is that I was kind of rushing the job this particular time and not sure if put it back on or not. I just wasn't paying attention at the moment. Could that have caused an additional problem?

masospaghetti

You can damage the high voltage components if there's no discharge path (if you take off plug wires or leave the rotor off, for example). Reinstall the rotor and try it. Unless you tried to run it extensively it will probably still work.

LandHard

It only happened that one time, for a few seconds. I put everything back together and it started up pretty easy but still running weak, rough idle, and bucking. I haven't driven it yet.

AndyD

iTrader: (1)

One thing that stands out to me is it might be the catalytic converter. Can you take it off and then try to drive the car around?

Also, how old is the fuel filter?

scubacamper

Fuel Pressure Regulator?
Did you use Honda parts for the cap, rotor, and coil?
new plugs?

LandHard

Fuel filter is not that old
Not sure what brand the cap and rotor are
Coil is brand new from O'Rielly
Putting new plugs on Tomorrow or Monday

I normally don't buy parts from Honda because they are way expensive.

scubacamper

Same here- honda oem parts are ridiculously expensive! But apparently Hondas are very finicky about their electric ignition parts...
I'm going through the same issue with my '93 accord - except mine won't even start.
On the plugs: make sure u use ngk plugs.

tamboo

check rockauto for the popular parts with the red hearts.
check amazon for the top rated part you are looking at.
then check ebay to make sure they arent cheaper there.

Starting Problems

LandHard

tamboo - Thanks for that link. It helps now since techauto is down.

scubacamper - I only use NGK. The tips on those cheap autolite plugs are too small for the plug wires causing them to pop out. Also, the ICM at the Honda dealership is $187, or $44 at O'Reilly, or $11 at ebay.

scubacamper

Yes OEM are outrageously expensive! Don't worry, I've checked prices myself, too.

Now, it seems I'll be switching all my electrical components back over to OEM...

LandHard

Replaced the spark plugs today and it started with no problem, however it was still running rough and sputtering badly. Also, there was a LOT of smoke coming out of the exhaust. Way more than normal.

I let it warm up for a few minutes then decided to drive it around the block. It stalled after about a half-mile and now it will not start again. I have no idea what to do now.

LandHard

Oh and another important thing that I forgot to mention: after it stalled and I tried to restart it, when I had the key in the II position the rpm gauge was bouncing between 1500 and 2500 rpms, and the coil was making a weird ticking noise.

holmesnmanny

Have you bothered looking inside the ecu for any burned spots ?

This sounds like an ecu issue.

LandHard

No I haven't.

LandHard

I tried this earlier today. I took off the 4 mounting nuts but didn't pull it out all the way because of the wires. I didn't want to mess anything up trying to pull that part out, so what can i do to check for burned spots without damaging it? Will those wires unplug easily enough?

holmesnmanny

There are three connectors that hold all the wires to the ecu. In the middle of each connector you press in the tab and pull the connector out. Do this for all three connectors. Then take out the ecu remove the screws and open it up gently and take a look inside. You might see burned spots. Its possible for it to look good and still be bad. I would swap it out with one from a 92-93 accord of the same trim from the junkyard.

LandHard

I haven't gotten a chance to pull the ECU yet but I did test the fuel pressure and it was between 35-40 psi.

Also, I did the spark plug test from Starting Problems and there was no spark at all.