accord96lx

Is there a trick to getting the mounts installed to get rid of the idle vibration, especially when AC is on? It's a 96 accord LX with auto 4 cyl.

Is there a sequence to tightening?

I bought and replaced the front motor mount with an OEM.
I bought anchor brand rear, left front motor and the transmission mount near the battery. The rear one was more than I could handle so I paid a shop to install it. It did help a bit but the vibration is still fairly strong.

So I replaced the left front motor mount and noticed the flange bolt (12 x 45) was loose when I removed it. I think it might be stripped so I plan to buy a new one at the dealer since no hardware store or auto part store near me had one.

I tried to remove the transmission mount but it would not come loose after removing the through bolt, and the 2 flange head nuts. I looked it over and it looks in tact so I put it back together.

Anyone know if the mounts need to be tightened in a particular sequence?

92 civic ex 4dr

I know the the fifth gen (not sure what year, and or sub model) had the option for a vacuum controlled rear engine mount. I special ordered mine so that i could return it and get the non vac controlled one in case. Turns out mine is vac controlled. It's a base model. 97 dx4dr auto Trans F22B2. Maybe you got the wrong rear engine mount.


Posted from Honda-tech.com App for Android

Lost Again

All of the 5th gen Auto trans have the vac rear mount.

The real question, is this the mount, the solenoid, vac lines, ect. bad........assuming this is a rear mount issue. Could be a number of things...what is the rpm of the engine when the ac is on?

Then, why in the heck do replace the engine and trans because of a vibration at idle when the ac os on?

92 civic ex 4dr

He didn't replace the engine and Trans, just the mounts for them. I didn't know the 5th gen all came like that because they offer a non vac mount as well.


Posted from Honda-tech.com App for Android

Lost Again

Ok, my bad on reading .

accord96lx

Yeah the original rear mount had the vac/solenoid combo, so that is what I got to replace it with.

In fact I got it here
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...710&cc=1167410

The mileage on this is over 300k and the mounts I think were the originals, so I figure it couldnt hurt to replace them as the front mount was totally shot (at left) ..



The vibration is most noticeable when I am stopped in traffic and the AC is on at approx 900-1000 rpm.

Lost Again

So have you tested the mount and or the solenoid?

accord96lx

I wasn't able to install it so a shop had to, how do I run a test?

TheMuffinMan

iTrader: (1)

What is your idle at?

accord96lx

When I come to a stop its usually at 500-600 and and starts to vibrate. It's been less vibration since I had the mounts replaced but still doesnt feel right.

Lost Again

Well at 500~600 rpms you'd get that.

If the idle is not staying above spec's, you got another issue.

accord96lx

Today as I was driving and in traffic I payed more attention to where the rpms were. I was completely stopped for a while and didnt have the AC and the engine started to vibrate, the needle on the gauge was below 500 at about 400 I'd say. When I turned on the AC it vibrated stronger and the needle went to 500.

After turning off the AC it dropped to 400 again. With my foot on the brake I accelerated and when the needle got just above 500 the vibrations were not that noticeable and felt more normal.

How can the idle speed be adjusted cause maybe thats all it needs?
Sorry for the bonehead question but I have only messed with timing on my chevy truck by loosening the distributor and moving it to advance the timing, and then using the idle speed screw on the carb.

TheMuffinMan

iTrader: (1)

That's why I asked the question, it's been awhile since I've been in my F22 Accord but IIRC it was around 700rpm. There is a bronze screw that's on the throttle body, just tweak that guy a touch while the car is running and you should be good.

Lost Again

Honestly, I would try cleaning the TB and the IACV before messing with the idle screw.

accord96lx

I did try that bronze screw and to begin with it was already tightened up pretty solid. I reversed it out a few turns went for a drive and no change. I tried this till I was about 8 full turns out on that screw. I never noticed a change in the idle as I backed it out. So from here I will try and clean the throttle body and IACV.

TheMuffinMan

iTrader: (1)

You're technically supposed to, the FITV, IACV, and TB but if he was like a hair low the idle screw can knock it out. Doesn't sound like that's the issue.

silas871

The "idle screw" is NOT for adjusting the idle speed. That screw basically protects the throttle valve from contacting the throttle body when it is fully closed, preventing any wear from such contact. I hate seeing people try to tamper with that screw to remedy low idle/poor idle condition.

I have seen this problem several times on different types of vehicles. You need to remove the throttle body and clean it, as well as clean the egr passage(s) and the upper intake manifold. While doing that, also inspect the idle air control valve. The issue you are experiencing almost certainly lies there.

TheMuffinMan

iTrader: (1)

That screw is absolutely there to fine tune your idle. 600rpm is not a far cry from the ~700 or so that it should be and would be what I consider 'fine tuning'.

It absolutely should not be the 'go to' when you have a bouncing idle or something to that effect.

Lost Again

OP- Since you've played with the idle screw and nothing happened. IMHO that tells you that you have an issue somewhere else. When the mounts were changed, did they install the proper rear mount with the vac to it? Check the vac line to the solenoid and from there to the mount.

nicolaselias

I'm with muffin on this... The issue sounds more like his idle RPM than the mounts themselves...

I would make sure its set to the correct 700 or 750 before really going after the mounts again.. If idle is set right, then you look at the vacuum on the rear mount... A ran one without the solenoid for a few months and it was truly terrible... Trust me, if it was that you would get vibrations all the way up to 900 or 1000rpm

silas871

Idle speed is controlled by the computer via the idle air control valve! Has literally nothing to do with that screw. By opening the throttle plate with that screw, you are just overriding the iac and computer. The screw should not be tampered with and usually has some kind of thread lock applied to it from the factory. When idle speed is too low, as in the case of the op, some condition has made it impossible for the iac to achieve desired idle speed, such as a malfunctioning iac, dirty throttle body and/or upper intake, clogged egr ports, etc.

Spaceballsthelunchbox

You are confusing 2 things.

What you are talking about is the butterfly stop screw. It is a 10-32 set screw with a lock nut and it does stop the butterfly from hitting the bore. It is located on the side of the TB below the pulley. You should not move that at all.

The screw for adjusting the idle is a slotted brass screw in the upper front part of the TB and it is used to adjust the idle.

Spaceballsthelunchbox

Lots of miss information going on.

The EACV is there to compensate for LOAD on the engine at idle. Like when the A/C turns on or the headlights are turned on ar anything that causes a load on the engine. The ECU opens that valve slighlty to raise the idle speed and keep the RPM at the correct idle.

In fact the procedure for setting idle requires you to disconnect the EACV and set the idle with the adjustment screw. Plug the EACV back on, reset the ECU to clear the code and you are done.

silas871

OK, sorry for my misinformation. Still, even if I am completely wrong, (which apparently is the case) something would have to change for the condition the op is describing to occur. It is very unlikely that the position of this "idle screw" would change over time, and instead it is much more likely that the upper intake tract and/or egr tract has gotten dirty and is the problem. That is my point. I apologize again if I have posted incorrect information.

Spaceballsthelunchbox

No harm done. I agree with you that something is causing the idle to drop. The correct procedure would be to remove the TB and clean it thoroughly. I get some Tbs that are very clogged. But since that is a complicated time comsuming job, adjusting the idle screw out a bit can do the same job. Eventually the TB will have to come off and be cleaned.