richardman

Did a throttle body cleaning following instructions from pdf link
http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?t=735

car had shaky idles and check engine lights is on. I do not have a code reader.

Symptoms are when i rev up to 3000 rpm no matter what gear i am it will not let me go higher than 3000rmp and engine will flick up and down between 3000-3500 rpm .

Did i damage the map or TPS any info or past experiences will be greatly appreciated. please help..

PnX-R

Hmm... It's always worked fine for me. But then again, I don't care to remove the Throttle Body. I don't like spraying Brake Cleaner at electronics. On all the cars that I've worked on, I use a rag and spray some Brake Cleaner on it and then clean the Throttle Body bore. Sometimes for tough spots, I'll leave the rag in it and let the Brake Cleaner do its job.

richardman

Well thats all i did was exactly as instructed in the service bulletin. i sprayed far away from the IACV so i do not think that is damaged.

What i did so far is bought a new map sensor and with the new one plugged in it still has jerky idles so i put the old one back on.
my guess is it is the tps sensor that needs replacing. the screws are snap off and need to be slotted some way to remove.
as for driving it is getting worse and worse sometimes car stalls out on neutral and still have the 3000 rpm flicking that won't go past that rpm ?
Please any know what is wrong please help.

PDATE
after unplugging and plugging the ecu fuse (#13 by the passenger door)the 3000 rpm flicking is gone and i am able to drive over 3000 rpm but car still idles weird on neutral goes lower than 750 rpm. When driving in gear 2 or any gear and dropped into neutral the idles will drop into zero and move back up to about 500 rpm if coasting. If car is put into neutral at full stop it will stall. If car is idling on neutral and gas is applied when rpm drops the car will stall.

I found if i remove the rubber plug on top of the throttle body the car will run properly but idles are at 1000 rpm and check engine light will turn on. please see pic

uberEFtuner

It only makes sense that you loosened up some crap and now its clogging an air idle passage way. I would get a new throttle body gasket first. Then remove the throttle body and clean every hole you can find.

richardman

I bought a new throttle body gasket when i did the TB cleaning. Double checked many times for what needed to be put back together and still get the symptoms. But as mentioned with that rubber cap taken off the car is somewhat drivable.

I did another ECU reset by pulling the ecu fuse near the passenger door fuse box and then unplugged the battery for about 5 minutes. Fired up the car and it has no check engine light on anymore. The idles still fluctuate up and down.

Anyone have any ideas why this is happening.

quickster

if you have an OBD1 ECU you can stick a paperclip in the jumper plug to get the trouble codes to flash on your dashboard.

richardman

my car is 2001 and anything 96 and up uses obd2

TheMuffinMan

iTrader: (1)

Correct, you can however still flash the codes but if you don't have a CEL it doesn't help you much

I agree with uberEF that you probably loosened up some gunk that clogged some stuff up further down the line. You may want to spray some TB cleaner down in there to clear it up - possibly run Seafoam through the motor (through like the brake booster line) as well as a few other locations on the IM. That would hopefully clear up anything that's gunked it up.

*edit*

And just read the instructions for Seafoam don't put too much in, just have it slowly suck it up as directed.

lordnight

i think first u need to know what code u got by go to advance auto let them check it out. then we can go from there..

ilikehonda

check the fast idle under the tb. screw down the thremo wax thing down to its tight.

richardman

The problem was a bad throttle body gasket. It was a fel pro brand gasket that was not designed right it blocked air passage to one of my sensors. With the right gasket in place car is running good again.

HonBeer

Always compare old parts to new part.....If you would have done that you would of saved yourself the big problem that you have incured

richardman

The old throttle body gasket was stuck and melted onto the throttle body and intake manifold and I had to scrape it off with a razor blade.

There was no way to compare old gasket to new one. But that is a good point you have made and I usually do that if i can. Especially when buying Aftermarket parts.

If anyone is going to do a throttle body cleaning i suggest not to buy a FEL PRO brand throttle body gasket. Go to Honda and spend the extra 3-4$ and get a genuine honda part.

My ride 2001 Honda Accord DX 5 SPD MT ALL STOCK

HondaPartsHero

Read the Diagnostic Trouble Codes Without an OBD2 Code Reader
#
Step 1

Locate the 16-pin data link connector. Connect the jump wire to terminals 4 and 9 of the connector. Turn the key to the "On" position without starting the engine.
#
Step 2

Watch the "Check Engine" light. This light will begin to flash in specific patterns to indicate a 1- or 2-digit Diagnostic Trouble Code. The flashes will be long for the first digit, short for the second digit and blank if the digit is 0.
#
Step 3

Record all the codes given. The "Check Engine" light will display the codes in sequence and then keep repeating them in order. Refer to your repair manual to check for the meaning of the codes.



it may have stored the code when it did come on

richardman

Thanks for the info will try it out for sure. My car was fixed at a shop a few days ago and things are fine but now my check engine light is on so i try to read the code with this method.

richardman

*******UPDATE**********

CEL 67 or P0420 Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold
has showed up on my car 2 days after the fix. Going to reset and see if the CEL will pop up again .

ricebike

thanks for the updates and great info about reading obd II codes without a scanner!

i'd personally just go to my local autozone or advance auto parts and just borrow their scanner for free while i'm getting parts/ supplies and dropping off my used oil...

1OutThere

I ran into a similar problem. Cleaned my TB and accidently (well, ignorantly I guess) removed some of the paint/epoxy/whatever the hell the coating is from the throttle blade. Had an erratic idle, jerky throttle response, etc. Did the idle relearn after adjusting the throttle stop screw to give just a little clearance between the blade and the bore at idle. Now the idle is fine, but I soon got the P420 Low Cat Efficiency code which keeps coming on after resetting it. The engine also typically dies once at every cold start after running for 4-5 seconds, but only once. My next move is to recalibrate the TPS and see what happens. Fuel economy seems to be down some too. Open to any ideas at this point. I'm very close to putting my wide-band O2 sensor in the cat and data logging it but I don't want to if I can help it.

mtab11@aol.com

I’ve had a nagging problem forever. Erratic idle, fluctuating idle, only during first 10 minutes I got a dozen different small annoying problems. I have tried every fix from every post. Always start with the easiest fix and work your way to the hard ones. Well all have helped a little but none have completely solved problem. Here is what I learned. When removing and cleaning any hunker metal parts always replace the gasket and remove any sensors to be cleaned separately. I’ve found sometimes you will have an annoying problem which will not throw a code so you don’t have good direction. Now I’ve owned this 1998 since new. Here was the problem which I solved. Upon removing the intake manifold (plentium) I found the cylinder between the EGR and the manifold quite clogged. Not enough to throw codes but enough to cause weird idle problems. Also the area where the recycled gas is reintroduced into manifold. The location on manifold was crude dived also. Remove manifold, remove throttle body, remove map sensor from throttle body, remove IAC from manifold, remove heat sensor from manifold. CLEAN ALL. Remove EGR and clean. Now plug end by egr and fill cylinder between egr and manifold chamber with carb cleaner. Let sit. Then clean out cylinder with a wire brush like a gun cylinder cleaning brush. Reinstall problem solved. Have one other unrelated issue but I finally reached light at end of tunnel. Their are videos how to do this.

1OutThere

About the only thing I haven't done yet is clean the EGR valve, which at this mileage (218###) is probably pretty nasty. I plan to calibrate the TPS when I do the EGR cleaning.

XRACER63

It may be your VTEC Solenoid that will keep you from going over rpm if it get stuck or has gone bad. I had that happen to me just put new solenoid and it ran fine. If you solenoids bad the computed will hold your rpms down thinking your oil is not where it should be. Check oil first then run test on solenoid

99stockcivic

I also think this sounds more like a VTEC solenoid, either it's defective, bad wiring, or there is possibly a leak at the solenoid. I would replace.

1OutThere

Update:
After driving it for a few days P420 went away. My techie friend tells me the PCM had to relearn the cat operation, then it was happy. I still had some hunting at idle, so I bought a throttle body off of ebay for $38 that came from an '05 civic with 97k miles. The difference between this one and mine is that after cleaning it I could not see any light between the throttle blade and the bore with this one. Did some cleaning on the IAC valve and slapped it on. Did the TPS calibration, and it's a happy motor now. The moral of the story (for me anyway): don't dick around with the factory applied coating on the TB. What looks like dirt may not be.

mtab11@aol.com

mtab11@aol.com

so after all the work I completed I still had a wandering idle at 40 mph with a loss of power from a stop during first 10 minutes of running. I finally thru a unique code P1457 evap emission control system leak. Along with a common p170 fuel trim bank 1. So I was tired of trouble shooting. Got 2 better quality 02 sensors snd a new vapor canister charcoal,vapor canister vent valve/solenoid. This did the trick. Car is running like new. I was getting ready to bring it to Honda and get there real techs in it. Well I would have tested the vetch solenoid first. But I’m all good. Thank you all for your ideas. If anyone need more detail on my decisions here. Reach out and I will let you know.