twotonecivic

ok guys here's the deal. 92 lx bone never been raped. will not start. cranks and cranks but will not start. i've checked the coil, dizzy, changed the electrical part of the ignition switch. i'm getting power to the igniter and coil, the ground on the thermostat housing looks pretty good, at least it doesn't look to be the culprit. i had the problem before and then all the sudden one day i went out and turned the key and it fired right up. drove it for like a month and a half w/o problem, then boom back to stage one, no spark no start. anybody got any helpful advice? is there another wire i should be testing out of the ignition switch because like i said i'm getting power at the dizz. where do the wires go from from the tstat housing. i was wondering if one of them had a break or rub in it somewhere in the loom. just wanted to test it so i don't have to rip the whole harness apart. there are two wires that connect to the houseing a blk/red, and either yellow or white/blk, it's an old car. kinda hard to distinguish. and then beside each of those wires is a thicker black wire. i've thought about it being the key switch, but wouldn't i not be getting power out to the dizzy if that was the case? please help me.

twotonecivic

oh yeah i've also tried switching out the ecu's. thought there might be moisture in it or something. but still same thing.

twotonecivic

anybody?

twotonecivic

wow, i'm pretty disappointed, i usually get pretty decent response. guess i'll just be hittin and missing

twotonecivic

does anybody have any idea?

afreeclimber

Sounds like you checked everything related to the ignition (spark) and it's all good.
Did you check for proper fuel delivery?

twotonecivic

yeah the fuel rail primes full when you turn the key.

afreeclimber

Did you confirm that the igniter is working properly, besides just getting power?
Although I don't think an igniter can go bad, work for another month, then go bad again. Sounds like a loose connection to me.
Did you pull the distributor off and look inside it?

twotonecivic

yeah i even tried a different dizzy off a running car. new igniter and all. i'm gonna try to test the ground that runs from the t-stat housing to the ecu. anybody know what that ground should ohm out at?

phootbag

Make sure the ECU is out putting an ignition signal to the igniter. You should see a pulsing DC voltage signal when cranking. If there is no ECU command there is no igniter control.

There should be nearly zero ohms at any ground point. I would use voltage drop, though. It is a dynamic test rather than a static ( no current ) test. There should be virtually no voltage drop. About .01 volts is accaptable at any connection.

twotonecivic

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by phootbag &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Make sure the ECU is out putting an ignition signal to the igniter. You should see a pulsing DC voltage signal when cranking. If there is no ECU command there is no igniter control.

There should be nearly zero ohms at any ground point. I would use voltage drop, though. It is a dynamic test rather than a static ( no current ) test. There should be virtually no voltage drop. About .01 volts is accaptable at any connection. </TD></TR></TABLE>

i tried a different ecu also, would this cure that problem?

accord99power

do the test first

mavvrik

I don't mean to be the obvious oswold here, but it's mooost likely the wires from your tstat housing. If your Dizzy and your ECU are both good, than it's gotta be the path in between.

twotonecivic

yeah i'll have to buy a new battery. the one in it crapped out on me. i cleaned the tstat housing connection, didn't look dirty enough to be the culprit. i'm bettin there's a rubbed wire in there somewhere.

RiceKillinSI

Have you checked the main relay?
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=53888