Golddigger

Looking for help on my 2002 Accord. Mechanic put in new clutch disc, throw out bearing and pressure plate. Clutch was totall on the floor for engagement. He said it was because the master cylinder and slave were bad. Had them replaced and same problem. the clutch engaged 1/16 off of floor. He then said it was because the disc was too thick, called Honda and got thickness of .330 and called Luk and got .330, both the same. No the fly wheel was not serviced because it was perfectly smooth with no burn marks. The system was bled without any positive results.
The mechanic has no clue to the problem. Can you help?

Golddigger

When one takes a vehicle to a garage that has been in business for 60+ year assumes the mechanic know how to "properly" bleed it. I stood and watched as one pumped the pedal and another broke the schrader, etc. Is there another way to do it?

Golddigger

After opening the system with replacement of master and slave, how many times would one have to pump, hold, and release? I feel that this may have not been done long enough. Also, I have read that there is a nut adjustment on the push rod of the pedal. Is this an alternative?

94EG8

You can do it with a Mityvac, but the old pump the pedal and open the bleeder works fine too.

I've seen it take as long as 45 minutes to get any pedal at all if the lines were dry.

No it's not alternative to bleeding. If the clutch is properly bled and you're still having release issues that's when you look at the adjustment. There's a diagram in the service manual with the measurements for the engagement and disengagement heights as well as the freeplay.

Luk tends to make a weird looking pressure plate for Hondas when compared to Daikin/Exedy/FCC so you may end up needing to adjust the pushrod depth. I only ever used one Luk clutch in a Honda and wouldn't really recommend it. If I remember correctly I needed to adjust the push rod in that car.

cschlick

I am having the same problem on my '92.

OP: idk about the '02's but my 92 has about a dozen fittings on the various sections of clutch lines, double check to ensure none of these fittings were broken loose during removal and installation of the trans. i had to break a couple loose so the shift mechanism would clear. I also had to replace the crush washer on the banjo bolt at the clutch joint. hopefully this will solve my issue.


ANYONE ELSE: I am about fed up with the way the clutch line is ran in my '92 and if i cant get it to bleed correctly I'm debating retrofitting a hard line directly from the master cylinder to the slave, bypassing the clutch damper altogether. Has anyone else done this? If so, is it worth it? I Plan on allowing for flex and tucking and securing the line wherever possible.

Zak325

That's what I did on my car, I have a 5th gen but I'm guessing it's basically identical. Just order a prelude stainless line from b&r fittings for 60$ and hook it up. It's really up to you if it's worth it or not, it doesn't really help performance, it might lessen it very slightly because of flex as you pointed out. I didn't secure mine at all but I didn't drive it yet and I imagine I will have to at some point. It looks cleaner IMO but it's up to you whether you wanna do it or not.

cschlick

I'm not talking about a braided SS line, I'm talking about getting a length of hard brake line and bending it, I'm not doing any performance mods to this car until i get my wife's car paid off, but at the moment the accord is my DD and i need it to get back and forth to work. I mostly needed to know if i could bypass the clutch damper without sacrificing proper clutch function. I had assumed so, since none of my previous manual trans vehicles had one (that i know of at least, i know for a fact that my non-running ford doesn't have one).

I know the braided line retrofit is fairly commonplace, but i have never looked at one closely and didn't know if it ran straight between the master and the slave or if it still incorporated the damper

Zak325

Yep, you can completely delete the dampener and run one hard line from clutch master to slave.

cschlick

sweet, idk why this didn't show up when I searched using the forum search bar, but it was on page one of a google search: https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-accord-1990-2002-2/no-pressure-clutch-pedal-whatsoever-2612283/

98ekb18c

I wouldn't recommend running one hard line from the clutch master to the slave cylinder. Your motor mounts are rubber. As you drive the engine shifts and vibrates. If you only have a metal line run, it will eventually crack since it has no place to flex. You need a short length of rubber/braided stainless line to avoid that.