jokerstud

my family has a 94 accord EX and it is going to be needing a new clutch very soon. I was looking for some advice on this. Should I go to the dealer? should i try to do it myself? any advice would be great. Like should i buy a stock one off of like majestic's website and have someone else put it on. Any advice would be great. Just a daily driver so nothing special is needed. TIA

jokerstud

anyone?

RotaryBzzzz

find a good independant shop. No, you don't need to go to the dealer. That will be a very expensive job (~$800) from the dealer v. independant ($350-$450). Make sure a new throw-out bearing and flywheel resurface is INCLUDED in whatever price you negotiate. I believe the "rear main engine seal" you'll want to replace proactively as well.

On 94's, there is not alot of clearance. Clutch jobs are relatively straightforward though.

You'll want to resurface the flywheel for the most life out of the clutch. The best kits are OEM Daiken or Exedy but not bought at the dealer. I prefer new over rebuilt if possible. New vs. rebuilt is about the same price if your going to bring a parts-kit to the shop. Careful though cause if you bring parts, the shop will only warranty the labor. Good luck.

http://www.switchboard.com <-- online phone book

89_LXi

Well I can't give advise on the job itself, but I will give this advise. If at all possible, go with OEM Honda (Daiken/Exedy like mentioned above). I just had my clutch replaced 3 weeks ago for the first time (original OEM clutch had 321,343.6 miles before one of the lil springs on the disc broke), and I never even once had a single problem with it. Disc itself wasn't even down to service limit yet. I made the mistake of taking it to a shop and letting them put an some aftermarket clutch in. Now 3 weeks and 900 miles later, I'm already having some major problems with my clutch (started today). Sitting at a stoplight I pushed the clutch in and put in 1st, then all of a sudden the tires chirp and engine stalls just as if I popped the clutch, yet the pedal was still all the way to the floor, and stayed there until I pulled it back up. Cable was fine, but release arm was moving freely for several inches....weird. I tightened the clutch cable as tight as I could before it would finally pull the release arm enough to work, and I was able to drive home, but it still doesn't feel right at all. Good thing for lifetime warranties!

So there's my opinion on aftermarket clutches

AngryTR0LL

Do you have a car lift? If you don't, I wouldn't try the installation yourself. I've installed a lot of clutches but I wouldn't do one at home (especially a '94 Accord).
If you want to save a little cash, most dealers will install your parts. Buy the factory clutch online and you'll save quite about on the dealer's list price.
I wouldn't worry about the rear main seal unless it's leaking. We usually don't resurface the flywheel, either. If it's in bad shape, we will replace it.


Here's what Honda has to say about flywheel resurfacing:


<U>Flywheel Resurfacing</U>

Because of the stepped pressure plate mounting surface
on all our cars, flywheel resurfacing is not
recommended. The flywheel should be replaced if,

• The friction surface runout exceeds the S/M specifications, or
• The friction surface is deeply grooved, or
• The flywheel has heat cracks that may affect its integrity.

Small heat spots, some slight discoloration, or slight
grooves are not reasons to replace the flywheel. In those
cases, simply replace whatever clutch parts are needed,
and button it up.

judonoh

if you do decide to resurface it, get the shim. If you do that then the original distance should remain the same.

jokerstud

yea i work at a True Value and we have a tire shop so the guys over there can help me out and do have a lift

skabone

what type of clutch do you have in you car now? I've hear about people getting ACT clutches and being pretty happy with them. Now clutchmasters on the other hand I've heard a lot of bad things about them

jokerstud

im assuming its the original cluth, its @ 130K now, where do I look for the new OEM clutch? or what parts do i even need?

StimpyBoy

I bought my clutch from http://www.clutchcityonline.com , they sell Exedy clutches which I've heard are pretty good. The kits come with the friction disc, pressure plate, and the throwout bearing, which is pretty much what you need for a clutch job. Oh, and they include an alignment tool as well.

I think I'm going to give replacing my clutch a second shot soon, I'm hoping to do it at home with just jackstands/jack etc. I wish I had a lift, but I don't, and I can't really afford to pay a mechanic for this. Bah.

jokerstud

honestly how hard is it to do, like me, with VERY limited knowledge about this kind of stuff. I have access to a nice lift and probably all the tools i need. Is this something I could figure out? Like buy one of these kits for $111 on this website and do it myself??? I'm not a car genious but I'm a smart kid and can figure out alot of stuff. OR should i just pay the man

jokerstud

also, which kit would I need on this website???

2.3L 1998-00 4-Dr, F23A1, F23A4 Engine 08-014 $111.00
2.3L 1999 F23A5 Engine 08-014 $111.00


which of these 3. I have a 99 accord EX so which engine do I have??? Thanks everyone is advance

KGAccord

^ if you look at it "08-014" is the part number,they are the same.

StimpyBoy

What a co-incidence, I ordered 08-014 for my 92 as well!

Heheh yeah he's right, they're both the same kit.

KGAccord

that's cuz 90-02 accord and 92-01 ludes have interchangeable trannies which also means clutches/flywheels too.

jokerstud

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jokerstud &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">honestly how hard is it to do, like me, with VERY limited knowledge about this kind of stuff. I have access to a nice lift and probably all the tools i need. Is this something I could figure out? Like buy one of these kits for $111 on this website and do it myself??? I'm not a car genious but I'm a smart kid and can figure out alot of stuff. OR should i just pay the man</TD></TR></TABLE>

KGAccord

^just pay to have it done. a clutch job on a fwd car is not an easy task, hence the high labor cost.

jokerstud

ok so i should by this kit and take it to someone and that kit will have everything they need?

CaptainObvious

I plan on installing my new Exedy kit and Fidanza flywheel either this weekend or next, If I do it this weekend i'll post how difficult it was.

StimpyBoy

Let us know what method you use to get the axles out (disconnect lower ball joint or the rest of the suspension parts to LCA)

I'm going to try and find a nice, long 17 mm wrench again for the damn radius rod bolts, but last time I had no luck on the driver's side. Damn axle was too much in the way to use a socket, and the wrench I had was so short that I couldn't get any leverage.

RotaryBzzzz

it won't have the seal and it might not have the throwout bearing. They (t/o bearings) come usually in a seperate baggie/box....they are usually included in a price but CHECK.

AngryTR0LL

I can knock out most front wheel drive clutches in about 2 hours. It's usually double for the Accord. If you've never pulled a tranny, you're looking at a day or two of hard labor. All of the bolts will be tight especially the 17mm bell housing bolts and 17mm radius arm bolts. If you don't have a quality impact, you can count on a couple of busted knuckles when they break loose.

If you really want to cut your teeth on an Accord, here's a couple of tips (they’re not necessarily in chronological order),


Find a clutch alignment tool. You can use a universal tool or the clutch kit might have one included (the factory parts won’t). I have a kit with about 50 clutch alignment tools for different makes and models but sometimes I still don’t have the correct one. I’ll usually use the one that’s close and then eye ball it.

Find an engine support; you'll need it. It can be done without one but it's a bitch. Don’t be afraid to let the engine/transmission assembly hang down far enough to remove the transmission. It looks like the engine is ready to fall out (changed your mind, yet?) but it won’t hurt anything.

Remove the trans mount and the studs that attach it to the transmission. If you don’t remove the studs, it’s almost impossible to clear the inner panels.

Don’t forget to drain transmission fluid.

Remove the battery and the battery tray.

Remove both axles (don’t tear the boots!). Some people try to leave them in the steering knuckle and let them hang. I think they just get in the way. Remove the 36mm nut from the axle, remove the 17mm bolt/nut and the 14mm bolt from the wishbone and remove it from the strut. Remove the 17mm ball joint nut and hammer the lower control arm until it separates. Use a pry bar to pop the axles from the tranny.

Remove the front half of the engine/trans cradle (leave the radius arms attached). Removal is easy once the axles are out.

Fight with the rear engine mount. This takes a little practice but you should be able to figure it out. There’s three 17mm bolts and two 14mm bolts (I think).

Unplug ALL of the connectors. If you forget one, you’ll be hating life.

You and a buddy should be able to man-handle the transmission out and back in. The pressure plate bolts will be 12 point, 10mm. It’s funny I have a tool box so big it can only be moved with a flat-bed tow truck but I usually need to borrow this socket. I don’t normally bother with 12 points.

Once you are ready to install the transmission, use a 19mm socket and ratchet to rotate the engine. This will help align the splines in the transmission to the splines in the clutch disc.

GOOD LUCK!

97F22B2

What about a tranny for a boosted F22? any recomendations.

James

I am not sure about this but what makes you think you will need a new clutch? - 130 k miles seems to be young for OEM clutches in my opinion. Make sure you need a new clutch before you do anything. Pull emergency brakes on hard and try to act like you are driving the car on 1st gear and if it stalls, it means clutch is fine. Does it clatter when you use clutch? If not, the clutch is fine?

I thought mine ('92 Accord) needs a new clutch when it had 120k out of habit from my other cars but I put it off, gladly I did. Now it has 170k miles on it with original clutch after 2 teenager kids and am not having any problems at all. I just changed trans. oil - using Honda MTF once a year or two.

Make sure you need a new clutch before doing anything. - "dont fix it if it is not broken".

jokerstud

yea, i was kind of wondering that myself. The car we are talkign about is my old car, i just got a new one like 6 months ago and now my brother is driving the old one. He, and my dad think it is going to need it, so i thought I would try to get some info about it. to be honest, i dont really think it needs it yet but i guess they do. Ill have to try your suggestions. thanks!