redline870

i just recently got my 96 accord lx running after my engine swap. swapped in an obd1 jdm engine and tranny that i converted to obd2. runs and shifts good except when its supposed to shift into overdrive. at 75mph on the highway its at about 3500rpm. i think i may have the kickdown cable adjusted a little too tight. will this cause it not to shift into overdrive? and if not what will keep it from shifting into overdrive?

Duane_in_Japan

Glad you got the thing on the road bud, didnt you mention the possiblity that the ECU may not be correct for the swap.

Off of the top of my head, I think that the engine temp will prevent OD, I am talking the electrical signal to the ECU, of course you have the OD switch and its electrical connections down the line. Yes the throttle kick down linkage you were mentioning is a big one.

There was a thread in another forum just a few days ago, and the transman gave a chart (toyota) of what status the shift solenoids should be in for each gear so I recommend, if you can hotwire the proper OD solenoid at the proper time (speed) to see if it will shift for you then you will know if it is a computer issue or not.

I believe on Honda, each shift solenoid only has one wire for power, the ground is through the solenoid itself as the unit is grounded via its body being bolted to the transmission to attain its ground. Did I mention there should not be a ground wire.

Do you have a wire diagram or do you know where is the OD solenoid?

redline870

thanks man. i am using the original usdm ecu from the car. the temp thing could be my problem cuz sometimes the temp gauge will barely move even after driving for awhile. maybe coolant temp sensor? but sometimes it will work and it still wont shift.
as for the solenoid. i have no idea where it is. there are two obvious solenoids on the front of the transmission, maybe one of those is it. if i find out which one it is, i'll just swap the solenoid from the old tranny onto the new tranny and give that a try.
first thing im going to try is adjusting kickdown cable.

hondadude

Yes the pressure lever cable will keep the trans from going into lockup.

Back off the 12mm nuts on the cable end; Adjust the tension of the cable so that when you open the throttle, just as the RPM barely starts to increase, the pressure lever starts to slightly move.

Duane_in_Japan

Pay a little closer attention to your temp gauge, remembering that colder outside ambient temps makes the engine take a little longer to warm up. You may have an intermittently sticking open thermostat, if you believe this may be the case, then change it. A colder running engine will also give you less fuel economy and you dont need that these days.

redline870

stupid question but by "lockup" you mean overdrive right?

good idea, never thought of that lol. sometimes i forget about the basics.

P_Adams

It might be worth your while to have Deathzone Autoparts put the scanner on the vehicle and ask them to pay particular attention to three things.
Engine Operating Tempurature (As Duane alluded)
Closed Loop Operation
O2 Sensor counts ("Lazy Sensor" can keep it in open loop)

P

redline870

i have a scanner at work but dont know how to interpret the values or anything. i would like to learn ths stuff but dont know where to start. but anyways i changed the thermostat today and it warms up fine now but still wont shift in to overdrive. i even adjusted the kickdown cable all the way out and it just wont go in to od. i dont get it. is this the overdrive solenoid?

P_Adams

Those are one of two solenoid packs attached to the transmission case, and yes they can effect both shifts and lockup. The second solenoid pack is more towards the front of the case.



They have filter screens which can clog occasionally. I would check the solenoids for continuity and check the screens for any blockage.

P

91EX4dr

3500 rpms at 75 mph. Isn't that about normal for fourth gear. I had a problem with my torque converter not locking up and traced it back to the t-stat was bad. I used to run 3500 rpms at 70 mph before it was fixed.

redline870

cool thanx i will check this out on sunday and let you know what i find. i have the solenoids off the old tranny and was thinking of just swaping them onto the new tranny just to see if it made any difference. as for the screens you are referring to are these numbers 6 and 8 on that diagram?

the old engine and tranny was below 2000 rpms when at 75, so i dont think 3500 rpms is normal. i replaced the thermostat today and it had no effect

YeuEmMaiMai

for the LX I4 the rpms at 70 should be 2800, without lockup about 3300.

That trans uses a linear lockup type converter so it isn't a simple on and off kinda thing......

P_Adams

Yes / correct / Si / Ja and Oui (pretty much covers it) sir, #6 and #8 are indeed the screen assemblies.

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hondadude

Yes indeed I did say "LOCKUP", and did NOT say "OVERDRIVE".

That is what the Honda transmission does.

http://www.freewebs.com/hondadude/Lockup.pdf

If you can read and comprehend then you'll understand why the RPM increases when the torque converter is in lock up.

There seem to be many mealy mouthed mental midget morons on this forum, that have never driven a honda with the PGM Tester connected, so they can actually SEE what happens when the lock up solenoid turns on the hydraulic circuit.

P_Adams

Great link
(I hope I'm not the mealy mouthed mental midget ..... :-) )

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redline870

whats a linear lockup type converter. and how would i go about checking and changing it.

redline870

dude thanx for ur help but not everyone has the experience u have so u cant just expect me to know how to fix it. i dont really understand that link you sent me so i would prefer if u could tell how i could go about diagnosing this problem please.

YeuEmMaiMai

it allows the trans to partially lock up the torque coverter when in 3rd or 4th gear......provides for better drivability.......you can't change it without removing the torque converter from the transmission........

redline870

looks like im going to be taking this thing to a transmission shop. i adjusted the kickdown cable, swapped the solenoids, checked the screens for blockage and still no luck. seems like the transmission goes into partial lockup but not full lock up. i dont know. this sucks i have only brought my car somewhere to get it fixed twice in my life both for transmission problems, i hate not being able to fix it myself.

YeuEmMaiMai

check your t-stat before you run off to the trans shop.........that is the most common reason for 5th gen accords not to lock up the torque coverter..........

mavvrik

A Torque Converter either locks up or it doesn't. What causes the lock up of a TC is the clutch inside the stator. The best way to check your TC is to perform a road test. If you have good low-end accelartion and torque than you know the stator is doing it's job there (spinning). Now check your crusing acceleration/torque at cruising speeds(70+mph). If you seem to stay where you are or don't really have much "umph" than you know that your stator isn't locking-up with your turbine and impeller. If it's the othere way around where you have no low-end power and all top-end than your sator is constantly locked-up and isn't moving.

You say you've replaced your solenoids so you can check that off the list. The other big thing to check beside your stator is your check *****. You could have a seized check ball and be reciveing inadiquite oil flow to your turbine shaft. Hope that helps. G/L!

YeuEmMaiMai

incorrect, honda uses a linear model that allows for partial lockup..........please see white paper posted earlier in the thread