CORT noob

Hello Everybody! I'm new here, and I'm new to Hondas. I recently just turned 16, and bought my very first car: A 1990 Honda Accord LX coupe. By the way, Honda sure knows how to make some car's, comparing my car to the handful of other car's that I've driven. I really like to drive it, and would like to get some mods done to optimize efficiency and performance.

Now, let me start out by saying, that I know nearly nothing about cars. All technical talk makes me very confused. So, try not to let me annoy you too much.

My current plan as far as performance parts go, is this:
1. AEM cold air intake.
2. Re-do whole exhaust system.
3. Get a computer program and performance chip.

But, just skimming through the forums for about 45 minutes, I noticed that you can get it switched to manual... How much would that cost to get done at a mechanic? Would it really be worth it? Sure, I'd be getting better acceleration and a little bit better mileage, but I've never driven a manual(although I'm willing to learn how), and I am perfectly capable of redlining with my sport mode turned on.

Also, if there is any advice, or specific parts, or things you would or would not do, I would really appreciate your input.

fw190bvi

1. easy first mod, but not really worth the money (although it will free up an MPG or two on the highway)
2. dont do it unless you need it........ie the current system is rotted out. however if you decide to, stay at 60mm or 2.5" in diameter
3. waste. of. money. 100%


most 'mechanics' arent gonna do an auto-manual swap

tpot90

Just so you know, im only 17 & dream all day about what I can do to my car, probably just like you. Don't get ahead of yourself with your plans. Get the necessities out of the way first to keep your car running tiptop.

I don't think rechipping will do much for your car. Thats usually needed when there's a modification done where the standard computer cannot stand the power output that the mods bring.

Intake & exhaust wont do that.

As for the auto to manu tranny swap, youre looking at ALL new parts. New tranny & all of the needed part for the swap. For parts alone, I'd guess around $1k or more. Labor really depends! It could be anywhere from $500 to $1500. Just depends where you go & who you know.

CORT noob

Alright, so mod's won't do much to performance? I'll save my money then.

By the way, how do I check if all the parts on my car are stock parts? I know it doesn't have a standard muffler tip, but that doesn't really mean anything does it? And anybody who has experience with these cars in auto, do they usually shift pretty hard? Or could something be wrong?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tpot90 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just so you know, im only 17 & dream all day about what I can do to my car, probably just like you. Don't get ahead of yourself with your plans. Get the necessities out of the way first to keep your car running tiptop.

I don't think rechipping will do much for your car. Thats usually needed when there's a modification done where the standard computer cannot stand the power output that the mods bring.

Intake & exhaust wont do that.

As for the auto to manu tranny swap, youre looking at ALL new parts. New tranny & all of the needed part for the swap. For parts alone, I'd guess around $1k or more. Labor really depends! It could be anywhere from $500 to $1500. Just depends where you go & who you know.

</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm definately getting the neccessities first. I'm getting my A/C replaced first, and a tune up. Any specific part's you would recommend for this tuneup?

Also, with what you just told me about manual conversion, seeing as how I couldn't do it myself, it doesn't really seem worth it to me. My auto still get's a decent amount of pickup, seeing as how I Switch into my final gear at 55, the gear switches are well timed. When "Sport mode" is on, I'm redlining every gear.

tpot90

1. We cant help to tell you if some parts are stock or not unless you describe the part youre curous about, or send pix.

2. Yes your gen is known for hard shifting transmissions. Youre never ganna fix it, so dont worry about it. I have an auto. Its much more convenient when you just wanna cruise.

3. How many miles are on your car? Timing belt may be due for replacement if its around 205k miles. Idk what else should be due for a tune-up. Look at your vehicle maintanence history and compare it to the Honda Maintanence schedule.

4. The Auto to manual swap isnt worth it to me at all, but thats just my view. If you plan on really racing your car out with a bunch of money, then it is reccomended to get full power through each gear. Autos are usually just as good, unless its a major different circumstance.

Derek128

if u r still using the stock shock
I'd suggest to upgrade ur suspension & brake first
since ur car is 90 (18 yr old)

bad shock & brake can lead to long braking distance

almost everyone drives fast w/ their first car
its VERY Dangerous, if u can't stop or slow down properly

CORT noob

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tpot90 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">1. We cant help to tell you if some parts are stock or not unless you describe the part youre curous about, or send pix.

2. Yes your gen is known for hard shifting transmissions. Youre never ganna fix it, so dont worry about it. I have an auto. Its much more convenient when you just wanna cruise.

3. How many miles are on your car? Timing belt may be due for replacement if its around 205k miles. Idk what else should be due for a tune-up. Look at your vehicle maintanence history and compare it to the Honda Maintanence schedule.

4. The Auto to manual swap isnt worth it to me at all, but thats just my view. If you plan on really racing your car out with a bunch of money, then it is reccomended to get full power through each gear. Autos are usually just as good, unless its a major different circumstance.</TD></TR></TABLE>
When I look under the hood, everything looks pretty stock. What exactly do I take pictures of? Only thing that doesn't look stock is the muffler, but the car seem's like it may have been raced, seeing as it has Yokahama racing tires and 17'' rims, they will go back on in the spring .

Just had the timing belt replaced, 125,000 miles.

I'll keep it auto, I'm no racer.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Derek128 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
if u r still using the stock shock
I'd suggest to upgrade ur suspension & brake first
since ur car is 90 (18 yr old)

bad shock & brake can lead to long braking distance

almost everyone drives fast w/ their first car
its VERY Dangerous, if u can't stop or slow down properly</TD></TR></TABLE>
My brakes feel very good, stop really fast, although sometimes they make a grinding sound around corners, so should I check the rotors? Or, is that just salt crusted on there, because everybody's brakes sound like that in the winter around here. But, my suspension feels a little worn, leaning pretty bad around corners and whatnot. Is there any good aftermarket suspensions I should look into, or should I just get new a new stock suspension?

CORT noob

By any chance does anyone know what kind of muffler tip this is?

And, I have 17" rims, and Racing tires as I have stated earlier I believe. They are Yokohama tires, and they say S-1099 on them. I know they suck ***** in snow, but does any one know how they'll handle in the rain? On dirt roads?

awdgsx96

If that isn't a stock tip, it's probably just a small tip a shop puts on with a new exhaust. When I got my OEM catback done, the muffler shop put a similar muffler on there because mine was rusted to pieces.

SkimN

How on Earth are you going to tell him I,H,E don't gain power. The exhaust is probally the going to gain the least but there is still a gain.

If you tune a car thats stock you will also gain power, factory vehicle are tuned for economy not performance, so there is always more power waiting to unlocked. Tuning for heavily modified vehicles is more to be safe than to gain power(which it still does) but you HAVE to tune those vehicles so they don't blow up.

1st get an Ebay intake, throw the filter away and get a K&N filter for it.
You could get a header and exhaust but it's pricey a has minimal gains (still there are gains) same goes for tuning you could find power in there but you'd have to have the ecu chipped($$), then pay a tuner($$), and you still have to pay for dyno time($$).
Think like this: Price VS. Performance. For the price of I,H,E you could find a H22 longblock for a little more, keep the F trans and make ALOT more.

As someone else said I would go with maintenance, then suspension, and then worry about power. And remember you get what you pay for.

I wouldn't mess with the trans swap if you can't do it yourself. As for your exhaust it's probally just a bolt on one from Pep Boys or something.

CORT noob

Could you show me an example of what you mean by Ebay Intake?

awdgsx96

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SkimN &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How on Earth are you going to tell him I,H,E don't gain power. The exhaust is probally the going to gain the least but there is still a gain.

If you tune a car thats stock you will also gain power, factory vehicle are tuned for economy not performance, so there is always more power waiting to unlocked. Tuning for heavily modified vehicles is more to be safe than to gain power(which it still does) but you HAVE to tune those vehicles so they don't blow up.

1st get an Ebay intake, throw the filter away and get a K&N filter for it.
You could get a header and exhaust but it's pricey a has minimal gains (still there are gains) same goes for tuning you could find power in there but you'd have to have the ecu chipped($$), then pay a tuner($$), and you still have to pay for dyno time($$).
Think like this: Price VS. Performance. For the price of I,H,E you could find a H22 longblock for a little more, keep the F trans and make ALOT more.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

He's 16 and just got the car, lol. I don't think he wants to go right into swapping an H22, lol. And rather than going to exhaust and stuff that he doesn't need, that money could go towards oil, spark plugs, dizzy, any seals, etc.

SkimN

just type in "accord intake" in the Ebay search find one for you year.
I also added a few things in the post above

CORT noob

Is there any specific kind I should look for?


And, as of now, I need to replace my AC unit, and fix a few broken plastic things on my car, and get a tune-up. I plan to get a Pioneer CD player, and some more Pioneer speakers. I've already got some pioneers in the back, in the front the speakers are stock. After that, I plan on getting an aftermarket suspension of some sort, I'm not sure what though. I know I don't want my car lowered at all, so if there are any kits that won't lower the car, point me in that direction please.

Then, I may think about parts to add power. Good idea?

tpot90

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...ZWDVW

Thats an ebay intake. The filter is going to be crap, so ditch it & go buy a K&N or AEM performance filter.

As for the suspension brands you asked about earlier, go with TEIN, Eibach, Sprint, blah blah blah... All of this is answered in the Accord FAQ. Do some searching!!

CORT noob

Alright, Thanks!


I'm going to search away.

Also, I can't tell whether my Honda is a 90 or a 93. It doesn't really matter, since both years have no difference, as far as I know. But, the guy I bought it from said it was a 93, but the manual in the glove box says it's a 90. If I get the VIN, can some one tell me what year it is?

TheMuffinMan

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SkimN &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How on Earth are you going to tell him I,H,E don't gain power. The exhaust is probally the going to gain the least but there is still a gain.

If you tune a car thats stock you will also gain power, factory vehicle are tuned for economy not performance, so there is always more power waiting to unlocked. Tuning for heavily modified vehicles is more to be safe than to gain power(which it still does) but you HAVE to tune those vehicles so they don't blow up.

1st get an Ebay intake, throw the filter away and get a K&N filter for it.
You could get a header and exhaust but it's pricey a has minimal gains (still there are gains) same goes for tuning you could find power in there but you'd have to have the ecu chipped($$), then pay a tuner($$), and you still have to pay for dyno time($$).
Think like this: Price VS. Performance. For the price of I,H,E you could find a H22 longblock for a little more, keep the F trans and make ALOT more.

As someone else said I would go with maintenance, then suspension, and then worry about power. And remember you get what you pay for.

I wouldn't mess with the trans swap if you can't do it yourself. As for your exhaust it's probally just a bolt on one from Pep Boys or something.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

The F series isn't known for responding well to the I/H/E like a B series or H series does. It does however respond well to turbo due to it being a cast iron block.

The main concern with a car is getting everything up to par service/etc. Then worry about modding.

tpot90

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CORT noob &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> If I get the VIN, can some one tell me what year it is?</TD></TR></TABLE>

i believe this is also answerd in faq. If not, im sure there are some people who are good with vins and can answer your question

CORT noob

I didn't see anything about VIN's in FAQ.

96_Accord_lx

Your exhaust tip is stock, i have the same one on my 96 accord. AS far as mods go, i would get it running tiptop then start worrying about mods. The first thing i did to my car was an intake which i built myself so it costed less. today im going to pick up a full Fulken racing exhaust as mine blew out yesterday... Dont race it until you know what your doing... Thats all i can tell u! Dont swap your engine if your planning on Boosting it... Grats on 16 and the car though!

TouringAccord

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CORT noob &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Also, I can't tell whether my Honda is a 90 or a 93. It doesn't really matter, since both years have no difference, as far as I know. But, the guy I bought it from said it was a 93, but the manual in the glove box says it's a 90. If I get the VIN, can some one tell me what year it is?</TD></TR></TABLE>

look at your title or your registration. It's listed on those.

kd97accord

if you're going to swap out your exhaust, i'd go with 2.25" i find that this size works best especially with your stock engine, the intake is up to you really thers no real diff in the tube its basically the filter. The transmission won't shift hard unless you drive it hard, and i mean real hard. like neutral bomb starts and r/d burnouts.

TouringAccord

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TheMuffinMan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The F series isn't known for responding well to the I/H/E like a B series or H series does. It does however respond well to turbo due to it being a cast iron block. </TD></TR></TABLE>

cast iron block?? uhh... you meant an aluminum block with cast iron sleeves right

TheMuffinMan

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TouringAccord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

cast iron block?? uhh... you meant an aluminum block with cast iron sleeves right </TD></TR></TABLE>

I hate you

I have bronchitis, leave me alone

TouringAccord

LOL