Missing and dying
#27
Re: Missing and dying
I finally got the codes, I'm pretty sure these are the same codes that have been in the car for the past 40,000 miles but maybe I an wrong.
P0401
P1457
I'm going to try and test/clear the EGR.
I drove the car about 12 miles with no issue and check engine light came on, I managed to drive the car another 30 miles or so without the problem. I guess this is something I should have mentioned in my first post, the car will run fine for 40-60 miles before it start dying so I guess it could be heat related.
P0401
P1457
I'm going to try and test/clear the EGR.
I drove the car about 12 miles with no issue and check engine light came on, I managed to drive the car another 30 miles or so without the problem. I guess this is something I should have mentioned in my first post, the car will run fine for 40-60 miles before it start dying so I guess it could be heat related.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...&highlight=egr
#29
Re: Missing and dying
I cleaned the port this afternoon, it was completely clogged. The car started right back up and idled fine. I drove it down the road a couple of miles, when I came to a stop the engine died and was hard to start. The car will not idle at all, what did I mess up? All the vacuum hoses are back on and in the correct place, all the plug are plugged up, the grounds are bolted back to the intake... I f it was a huge intake leak it would idle high wouldn't it? It's too dark to look anymore tonight. Thanks everyone.
#31
#32
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Re: Missing and dying
I can't seem to find a test procedure at the moment, but if you just remove it and see if it's open, then you can tell if you messed it up. valve should be closed.
it may be getting opened by the ecu at idle, but i doubt it since you just replaced that. if you have to, remove the valve and block off the intake and exhaust ports, plug in the EGR valve and run it like that to check the idle. watch to see if the ECU opens the valve when you crank it ( may need a helper). it should be closed at idle. if it's stuck open from messing with it, it will allow flow at idle, and you may just need to replace it. the valve position is monitored by the ecu, so there should be a code set for valve position if it's open at idle. i'd start by looking at it with the key off to see if it's open, then blocking the ports off somehow and cranking it.
it may be getting opened by the ecu at idle, but i doubt it since you just replaced that. if you have to, remove the valve and block off the intake and exhaust ports, plug in the EGR valve and run it like that to check the idle. watch to see if the ECU opens the valve when you crank it ( may need a helper). it should be closed at idle. if it's stuck open from messing with it, it will allow flow at idle, and you may just need to replace it. the valve position is monitored by the ecu, so there should be a code set for valve position if it's open at idle. i'd start by looking at it with the key off to see if it's open, then blocking the ports off somehow and cranking it.
#33
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Re: Missing and dying
Just dumb question. I think the gen has to re-learn idle. I can't find the CD with the manual for this gen right now to give you the procedure.
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#36
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Re: Missing and dying
address the p1457 for now. that's about all you have to work with at this point. you probably have fixed the p0401 by cleaning everything out, so look into the other code. or have you already?
#37
Re: Missing and dying
Postscript:
I really hate running across old post like this one and the OP never comes back to say what was wrong.
Short answer, it was the coil.
Long answer, the car had two problems that masked each other. The switch being replaced fixed the problem of the car dying with all of the dash lights coming on and the quickly restarting. After replacing the switch it was better but still missed and would occasionally die without the dash lights coming on.
I had pretty much give up and decided to work on the race car during the blizzard or 2010. It was too cold out side to work on the Accord and I the race car wasn't together enough to move it outside and bring the Honda in. After the blizzard it warmed up to 70 one day so I decided to look over everything one more time. The car started missing as I let it warm up and started misfiring really bad as soon as I got on the road. It usually took several miles to start acting up after replacing the switch. I called my dad to come give me a hand and we were able to make the car miss fire and die by putting it in gear, holding the brakes and revving the engine up to ~2000rpms. I put a volt meeter on the injectors and the coil neither of which lost power when the car would misfire or die. When I pulled the coil I noticed a what looks like either a slight blister or a place that may have been arcing on the bottom. I put a new coil on it... That was three days ago and ~250 miles.
The only explanation I can come up with on the ECU resetting it's self could be the coil creating a dead short but that really doesn't fly with me. The radio would never go off and the cruise control wouldn't even shut off so that really doesn't make since.
I can usually fix something in short order but this really got to me. Thanks again to everyone that tried to help, I really appreciate it.
I really hate running across old post like this one and the OP never comes back to say what was wrong.
Short answer, it was the coil.
Long answer, the car had two problems that masked each other. The switch being replaced fixed the problem of the car dying with all of the dash lights coming on and the quickly restarting. After replacing the switch it was better but still missed and would occasionally die without the dash lights coming on.
I had pretty much give up and decided to work on the race car during the blizzard or 2010. It was too cold out side to work on the Accord and I the race car wasn't together enough to move it outside and bring the Honda in. After the blizzard it warmed up to 70 one day so I decided to look over everything one more time. The car started missing as I let it warm up and started misfiring really bad as soon as I got on the road. It usually took several miles to start acting up after replacing the switch. I called my dad to come give me a hand and we were able to make the car miss fire and die by putting it in gear, holding the brakes and revving the engine up to ~2000rpms. I put a volt meeter on the injectors and the coil neither of which lost power when the car would misfire or die. When I pulled the coil I noticed a what looks like either a slight blister or a place that may have been arcing on the bottom. I put a new coil on it... That was three days ago and ~250 miles.
The only explanation I can come up with on the ECU resetting it's self could be the coil creating a dead short but that really doesn't fly with me. The radio would never go off and the cruise control wouldn't even shut off so that really doesn't make since.
I can usually fix something in short order but this really got to me. Thanks again to everyone that tried to help, I really appreciate it.
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