sashimi

Like the title says, I just picked up a 97 Accord LX w/111K, auto. The trans fluid looks old, and I was advised separately by different people on what to do. One said to get it flushed and replaced, and another said don't get it flushed because if it was never changed this could induce leaks. I called the local dealers and none of them can flush it anyway, they can only drain it and replace it.

Should I keep searching for a place that can flush the system, or am I making a mistake? The fluid is like a light brownish, and the car seems to shift alright (although my other car is a 6spd so I'm not 100% sure what a 1997 Honda auto trans is supposed to shift like...).

Also, the car needs front rotors (warped) and I was wondering what suggestions you guys have for buying parts online for price & reliability.

Lastly, the car did not have the timing belt service at 90K. I called the local dealer and they wanted $675 (ouch)... so I am going to try to buy the parts and have a mechanic friend do it, hopefully for much less. Was wondering am I taking a huge risk by putting that work off for a bit? I won't be driving the car hard, or far, over the next few weeks. Maybe 20 miles a day at most.

Thanks in advance for your insight!

s

deserthonda

i would just replace fluid , do it again in about 5k and then do it every 15k ,,,,
can't your orotrs be resurfaced are they too thin??if you don't want to spend money to get factory parts i woud buy a set of Brembo don't know if i am spelling it right ;- )

timing belt price sounds a bit too steep but it changes from garage to garage but whomever you choose to do it make sure they use factory parts ,,,,,if you pick the parts and your friend does the job, aside from both belts and water pump , coolant ,valve cover gasket get cam + bal shaft seal + bal shaft seal retainer alt and p/s belts

ZexyAccord

i've had my accord since it had 12k on it. I found out about tranny oil replacement when it had 110k. Obviously no one had replaced the tranny fluid so I replaced it. My tranny went on me 10k later. But i didnt give a **** cuz a manual H22a swap was on its way.

P_Adams

You've got some good advice here, but there's some I'd like to add. Some shops can do a traditional "flush". It is performed by tapping into the trans cooler hoses and will not damage anything. Of all the Honda suggested services, the trans service I believe in. I've seen a fair share of funky shifting trans straignten out after a flush.
650.00 / 700.00 is the going rate for the timing set job on 90 and later engines (when done right) at the dealer level). You can get it done cheaper at independent garages.
My shop set me back 525.00 but it included three timing belts (cam and two counterbalance shaft) cam seals, crankshaft seal, tensioner(s), guides, valve cover gasket and seals and waterpump.
Brake rotors? Brembo slotted / cadnium plated from the Tire Rack

deserthonda

woooo p-adams did i read this right ?? 3 timing belts they sold you 1 too many you only have the main timing belt and the balancer belt ,, ,guides??? unless you are using a different name for something there are no guides to replace ,,, you might want to review your bill and get some money back

P_Adams

I stand corrected. Had to go back to the invoice & check - one balancer belt. Of more importance to the conversation however is the point that it's an extensive service, and can vary from garage to garage.

m0t0rhead

If you're on a budget, just pickup some UBP or TRUSTOP rotors from Napa (which will probably run ya 40$ each) IF you have to replace them.

The cheapest thing you can do would be to find a garage that has an on-car brake lathe.. make sure they can be re-surfaced and resurface them. Otherwise you're stuck with about 3.5 hours worth of labor just to R&R your rotors for re-finishing.

(I converted my setup to the floating style. boooyaaaaaa!)

As far as your timing belt job. To just replace the belt and pump a decent privately owned shop won't charge you more than 300$. If you want to replace the seals and all with it, of course it will be additional. You can get away with just the belt as long as none of the seals are already leaking.

Good luck.

sashimi

Thanks for the replies. I guess I will avoid the full flush and go with a replacement... perhaps filling it and draining it a couple of times over the course of several thousand miles as suggested makes the most sense.

Cadmium plated Brembo rotors may be a bit of overkill, afterall this car has 130hp and there are no plans for mods. It just needs to be a reliable daily driver for commuter service, I have another vehicle that is pretty fast already, as long as this Accord stays together for a couple years as a "runabout" I'll have gotten my money's worth.

Is there any way to determine if all of those additional services should be performed in addition to the timing belt? I don't want to be cheap & sacrifice reliability, but am on a budget for now as I just got a job last week after being unemployed for over a year.

Thanks,

S

tr3-2001SE

I just went through the same thing with the trans in my 97 lx at 113,000. I changed it 4 times over 5000 miles and all is well. The lockup in the torque converter took up to 10 miles to kick in. Now it kicks in immediately and shift great. It is some 6000 miles later and all is well so far. Changing the trans fluid in an accord is one of the easiest jobs to do. The Honda fluid is kind of expensive and I went through 10 quarts of the stuff. Now I plan a change every 15,000 which should keep it nice and clean.
Did not know the timming belt was so expensive. My last car a Toyota Cressida was done at the dealer for $250 dollars. They had a special from time to time on timming belts. Previous owner said mine had been done at 100,000 but wish there was a way to check it.
Brakes warp from lug nuts being over tightened. I alway check behind mechanics with my own torque wrench and get them to spec which is around 85ft/lbs. Since I started this 5 years ago have never had a brake rotor warp.

P_Adams

111,000 miles is young as far as Honda's are concerned. My '97 SE sports 197,000 and is still as tight as the day it came off the lot. True, the engines loos(er) than it was, but other than a radiator, nothing major has ever required attention.

As far as upgrading your brakes; they could very well keep your sorry a... out of the fire some day. Personally, I owe my life twice to this car; once because the brakes and suspension mods saved me from t-boning some clown who chose to run a red light.

True; as a daily ride, I can ask for no better. But it's nice to know that I can really throw the anchor out if I have to.


Modified by P_Adams at 9:22 AM 5/4/2005

sashimi

How's $95 shipped for front rotors, brembos, drilled and slotted, zinc plated? Best price I could find. Any diff b/w zinc plated and cadmium plating?

P_Adams

Best price I've seen, go for it
The cross drilling will allow the brakes to cool quicker, the slots will keep the pads clean.
Both coatings will keep them from surface corrosion

P_Adams

sashimi

If I do just the fronts is that a mistake? The place has a F & R package for like $185. I'm not sure if the rears are warped though... and I'm trying to not spend too much as there are several other things that need to be done maintenance-wise.

Thanks,

S

P_Adams

The LX has drum brakes in the rear, (unlike the EX, which has discs), Have the rear looked at, but if they're true to form, all they'll need is an adjustment.

P_

Warped drums I've never experienced on the 4 Honda Accords ("88, '89, '97(2)) I've owned and none have required any service other than adjustment