DC2-ProdUcTiOnS

iTrader: (2)

So my buddy has had his 2000 Accord Coupe for some time now and its taking a hefty beating...but since business has treated him good recently, so he wants to bring her back to life.

New heart, new interior, new rims, new suspension, etc.. etc...


The motor he is choosing to use is the F20B Blue Top long block with a T2T4 LSD transmission. He is going to be getting the motor/tranny from HMotorsOnline.com in the coming week or so and thats when the fun will begin......


So here are a couple of questions I have to make sure were going to have everything needed for this swap, and some parts to make this goes down somewhat smoothly.....

The swap from HMotorsOnline includes the following:
- Motor
- Alternator
- Intake Manifold
- Exhaust Manifold
- Fuel Rail
- Injectors
- Distributor
- Engine Harness
- Comes With All Sensors Needed
- 5 Speed T2T4 LSD Tranny


1. Since the motor is for a JDM RHD vehicle, is this harness going to work in a 2K USDM Accord Coupe that is LHD. I've been told it wont reach to the passenger side of the car? maybe yes, maybe no?

2. What ECU should he be running for this setup? Ive seen people using P13, and P28...however, i think figuring out what kind of harness he needs is the first step in answering this question. ( Dont say the stock ECU cause its an AUTOMATIC ECU...)

3. Which axles should we be using to mate the H-series into the Coupe? Ive read that F series and H Series axles are interchangeable, but can someone verify this in this case??? If they are, does that mean we can use the stock axles from the F23 thats in there now??

4. What kind of mounts are we going to need? Does is mate to the existing? or do we need a new setup?

5. Lastly, if anyone has anything to add that ive missed or that could be beneficial to know before we proceed with this swap would be greatly appreciated...


Thanks for your help guys, im going to end up using this thread for pics of the tear down, swap, questions, answers and all that mumbo jumbo....

Help us bring her back to life.....


Dc2

CarsAddict

may sound stupid but have you checked the tread. happened to me and got fined hefitly on the drive back/

DC2-ProdUcTiOnS

iTrader: (2)

wtf? tread on what?.....

spam post??

DC2-ProdUcTiOnS

iTrader: (2)

really??

50+ views and no one can answer any of these ?'s.....?????

come on guys!

TheMuffinMan

iTrader: (1)

It's close enough to the 5th gen, I suggest you read those FAQ's and pull the information you need. Not to mention a simple search yields:

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-accord-1990-2002-2/6th-gen-h22-swap-info-473019/

JC98

^^^ most of your answers are in TheMuffinMan's post above. As far as the mount question, thinking that its almost the exactly like swapping an h22a, all the stock mounts mount right up. EXCEPT the driver's side mount. The mount bracket on the h22 engine has to be modified to bolt up to the accord's mount. I'm in the middle of the swap and the guy who was dropping the motor in (but didn't get it goin, its currently at a shop being built, n yes they got the wiring that the other guy couldn't figure out), somehow got a hold of a Euro R mount bracket n it worked perfectly....but i hav no clue wat the chance would be finding one of those brackets. We had dizzy wiring problems just to let u know...so you mite bump into that...or not...

TheMuffinMan

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, I heard about the Euro R mount working for people, but it seems like so much trouble to source it when you can just mod an easy to come by one

JC98

Yeah, I agree with you on that......I still have no clue where this guy sourced the Euro R mount bracket that I'm using.

DC2-ProdUcTiOnS

iTrader: (2)

well it seems my buddy has had a lil change of heart and now wants to get the F20B now....pretty much the same except for everything is interchangeable now cause its F to F....gonna throw that baby in there and boost it.....

we got the motor pretty much ready to be pulled and started working on the body getting it ready for primer....

updates soon....

FunnyVictor86

how is the F20b interchangeable with the F23a? sure they're both F's but that does not make it more interchangeable than a H series motor ... it's harder to source parts such as pistons for an F20b if they ever take a crap ... IMO stick with the H23A VTEC ... sure the F20b is a high revver but it lacks the torque of an H23A and with a heavy 6th gen accord ... you want that tq ... the F20b has even less torque than the factory F23

Phaulkyou

For the drivers side mount, call www.dentsport.com

They have made a few drivers side mounts for 6thgen accords to fit h motors.

The F20b is basically a de-stroked h22. It was designed to compete in touring car racing where the engine size was limited to 2.0l. It makes good hp, but crappy torque. Id stick with the h22 or h23vtec.

JC98

agreed on h22 or h23^^^ n also, i asked the guy who did my swap, where he got the mount bracket, just to make sure, n he said he had one layin around from a swap he had done....he mentioned that the driver's side mount bracket was off of an h23a vtec blue top..so from the sounds of that, the h23a would've mounted right up (unless he didn't remember correctly where he got the bracket bt im pretty sure he did). But i guess you're goin another route now...but if you had the chance to get the bracket off the h23 that should help out for that driver's side mount issue.

DC2-ProdUcTiOnS

iTrader: (2)

more updates to come soon.....got all piping and intercooler and such....waiting for a little nicer weather to keep this b!tch rollin....

crx_91si

No, the harness will not work. The electricl main plugs are also different. The harness is good for lengthing wires and replacing missing/ broken conectors.

Are you converting to obd1? If staying Obd2b, you can use a manual PCB or PCF ecu.

I'm guessing your going to use Prelude axles and half shaft. Not 100% sure though

You can use all your stock engine mounts provided the mount bracket is still attached to the driver side of the engine. If the bracket is still there, you need to swap the threaded part with the one from your F23




If you stay Obd2b, you'll need to swap pin A15 to the A16 position for the fuel pump to turn on.








Dc2[/QUOTE]

DC2-ProdUcTiOnS

iTrader: (2)

i believe we got the specific harness we need for it. He just got it a week or two ago i believe.


would it be better to stay obd2b? or should i convert? now that im thinking about it, i need to see what the harness is wired to receive.

even with the F20B swap? ill still need the prelude axles and half shaft???

great!



again, i need to see how and what kind of harness he ended up getting.....





...........

Thanks for the info!!!! keep it comin. Im new to anything other than B,D, or H......

mozartking

get stronger motor mount thats what i did ...

TheMuffinMan

iTrader: (1)

1) I would suggest going to OBDI unless you have some reason to stay OBDII. It gives you the ability to tune in case of a turbo or motor build later on

2) You can use All F, All H, or F driver's and intermediate shaft and H passenger.

And to clarify:

All F = F driver axle, F pass axle, F intermediate shaft
All H = H driver axle, H pass axle, H intermediate shaft

The issue is the F and H intermediate shafts and axles are different, I personally had issues with F pass axles (would bind up) and went to an H22 one which worked fine. I kept the F intermediate and driver's.

nus_dogg

TheMuffinMan, what symptom does it give when the passenger side axle bind? I'm still using both my F Series driveshafts.

TheMuffinMan

iTrader: (1)

My axles (passenger only) continually would rip themselves up. After replacing like 3 times with new reman ones I went to Prelude ones (a touch shorter) and didn't have a problem after that.

I figured since the shorter axle worked perfectly it was binding up.

DC2-ProdUcTiOnS

iTrader: (2)

waitin for some nice weather to come around to get this project movin.....


anyone Turbo the F20B on here in this chassis? gettin excited to see how this thing is gonna turn out....

Daddydes07

help i did the f20 swap but having issues with the auto trans working properly what ecu do i use cause i used f23 harness on the f20 and used f20 ecu but the f20 uses 3wire vss and i swpped the f23 2wire vss sensors but i have the d4 flashing and the tranny dont shift right and it slams into first when coming to a stop and the power sterring makes a winding noise but with the stock ecu the power steering works but tranny and motor dont run good but with stock ecu no d4 flashing do u have any info or know anyone that does

WavyIntegra

That's a heavy *** chasis dude, I hope you're dropping loads of Boost and a Good tune on that thing if you plan on hustling it anywhere..

Would have gone H23 for the Torque but looks good nonetheless...good luck!

DC2-ProdUcTiOnS

iTrader: (2)

i dont get why everyone is saying its the wrong swap to pick.....

the numbers arent THAT far off in terms of torque...but HP is WAY higher in F20B from start....

STOCK F23/A1 SETUP-
HP: 150
TQ: 152

STOCK H23 SETUP-
HP:170
TQ: 156

STOCK F20B SETUP-
HP: 197
TQ:145


Ill take the 30 or 50 HP over 7 or 11 ft/lbs of TQ.....the turbo is going to bring all numbers wayy up anyway, so whats the difference i guess???

As long as it is put together with good parts and gets a good tune, he should be putting out decent power....

philadd

One of the problems with just looking at peak number like that is that you can't tell what the power band look likes. Sure, the F20B only makes 7 ft-lbs less than the F23. The problem is that it takes a lot more revs before you start to make that torque. The torque curve for both the H23 and F23 is much broader and flatter, while the F20B is more peaky and comes on later in the curve. To add on to that, we're talking about a chassis that is already in desperate need of more torque.

And yes, a turbo will bring those numbers way up anyways. However, unless your buddy is using a really small turbo, it still won't start to spool until 3k+ rpms on that motor. Probably doesn't sound that bad until you think about daily driving. Unless you just like pissing away gas by driving with the rpms sky high all the time, you'd rarely be high enough to get that boost in power.

Ah, but there is still something that will negate the loss of torque and generally make the swap all worth it. The tranny. Ditching the F23 tranny in favor of the F20's tranny (or any H-series tranny) will make a huge improvement. I dare say that the tranny is the most beneficial component of the swap.

So, what does all my blabbering mean? Your buddy will be fine. Myself, I would have chosen an H-series for the MUCH flatter, broader torque curve, which equates to easier and more bearable daily driving. That's just personal preference though. BUT... if your buddy kept the stock tranny, he'd be sorry...

Good luck with the swap.

unscenecd7

were you looking h23 v-tec or h23? the the v-tec version from the 6th gen wagon is rated for the same hp but about 20 more ft-lb of torque that shows up lower in the power band for better daily use.