hondamyheart

I have a sputtering issue one month till now and I am trying to fix it. fuel pump,filter, main relay
all replaced. Yesterday i tested the yellow/black wires along with the injector resistor
box. The readings was 7.02ohm, 7.04ohm, 7.01 ohm, 18.44ohm.

the last wire reads 18.44ohm! What could cause this to happen? the resistor box or a faulty injector?

GhostAccord

Try measuring the injector and resistor box individually and see which one is off.

hondamyheart

Injectors all 3.5ohm, I will test the box later and update you

hondamyheart

Replaced the box car runs bit better but it still sputters some time

holmesnmanny

I don't think a resistor box has ever even gone bad. If you've already tested the ignition system, it could be the ecu that's bad.

GhostAccord

If your ignition coil and other parts check out you could also try a compression test.

Do you know when your valve clearances were checked/adjusted last?

hondamyheart

I am running chipped P28. I have tried my old P13, still have the issue.


The mechanic did it around 3 months back.

Compression test already done.All good.

replace cap and rotor, spark plugs,wires, fuel filter.

Do you think it is fuel related?

GhostAccord

OK well now we are starting to get somewhere.

A little more background on your car would help try and figure this out.

Guessing H22 swap with chipped ECU.... What year car and engine/ECU? What type and size injectors are you running and is there anything else you have swapped?

Do you have data logging capabilities when you use the chipped P28? If you do you might be able to see the sputtering/hesitation in the logs.

hondamyheart

95 accord with h22 swap. P28 chipped, Stock injectors 345cc. The data logging connector is not installed on the ECU board.

holmesnmanny

I'm curious if the original resistor box was bad ?

hondamyheart

It was. because when i tested the red wire with blacks one of them reads 18 ohm. The car runs like 80% better now, When i switch off the car i smell fuel. I am thinking that the problem is fuel related.

holmesnmanny

Not to sound redundant but you measured the new resistor box and it didn't have the one lone 18.44 ohm ?

hondamyheart

The new box reads all wires 7ohm

hondamyheart

hooked up fuel gauge and the pressure is acting up. Sometimes at idle 26 psi after few seconds it will jump to 35psi and with the hose disconnected it will be 33psi and jumps to 40psi. Is it the fuel pump need to be changed?

GhostAccord

From what I have seen these fuel pumps don't usually surge. Unless there is an issue with the power source to the pump. In that case you could pull the gas cap and hear the pump surging. If a pump is failing it usually just quits.

You could check the voltage at the pump and see if it is fluctuating with the drop in pressure.

I would look at the fuel pressure regulator if the voltage is constant. Much quicker and easier fix then dropping the tank ans replacing the pump.

hondamyheart

I have to test the voltage from the main relay right?

poorman212

I would test at the pump. There is a panel in the trunk you can lift off and get to the wires at the pump.

hondamyheart

I'll check it out once i get home. All i know is that there is a panel for the fuel sending unit.

poorman212

On the other side (drivers) there is a panel for the pump as well.

hondamyheart

I have removed the back seats and full back interior but i couldnt find it. only the fuel sending unit panel is there. Do you have a picture of it? I have searched online and i got nothing. The car is 95 accord EX.

poorman212

Not the back seat...in the trunk.

Is your 95 a 2 or 4 dr?

Anyone cut their own fuel pump access? - Honda Accord Forum - Honda Accord Enthusiast Forums

Best pic I have right now....my 97 SE coupe isn't home right now...plus I'm not sure how much "stuff" there is in the trunk.

Fold the rear seat down.....the carpet from the trunk, fold/roll it onto the back of the rear seat that is folded down. If memory serves me the "fiber board" thing over the spare tyre

hondamyheart

i got no internet for few days! i have tested the power at the pump and the power is good. I have an adj fpr, i'll hook it up to see if it will solve my problem. It has one port at the top which is for the vacuum and 2 holes one at the left side and one at the bottom. where i have to connect those 2 holes? i have attached a picture of the fpr.

hondamyheart

Just to update you guys. Replaced the fpr but the issue still exists and then i thought i would take a look at the cat. I removed it it was clogged and the flex pipe is rusted. Replaced cat with straight pipe just to test drive and car runs better 75%. Going to replace cat and flex pipe and hope it will eliminate the sputtering problem.