Cobalt_daddy

I just purchased a 1990 honda accord lx with 144,000km on it. Runs like a champ... new exhaust, brakes little to no rust. doesn't burn oil. It's an auto.

Just need some help with some small issues.

First: the transmission seems to shift hard... like it hesitates shifting and kinda pulls every gear change like it has a shift kit. It also idles very rough when in gear... all the mounts are fine because i had a mechanic check them. was told it may be something that controls the shifts on the transmission sticking and needs to be freed up. anyone had this problem or able to offer suggestions on what to do besides a flush?

Second: My heater control is sticking. The lever that changes the blower temperature from hot to cold only slightly works... so i get really hot air or warm air... so all i can do is close the vents and drive with the windows down. I hear it's an easy fix... just need to free something up on the firewall but not sure where to find it or what it is even. can anyone help me with this issue? it's great for winter use but in the summer i roast in my car..

Replacing a tail light next week since the existing one is cracked and holds water causing the bulb to blow.. but this causes all the tail lights to go out... brake lights still work but no lights at all in the back are one... is this normal when a bulb goes? or is there something else going on? i'm sure they worked when i got the car.

Thanks!

poorman212

1. Check fluid level. If fluid is dirty, drain and fill. Some models have soleniods on the trans that can be removed and cleaned.
2. I think these use a sliding lever. Start with checking the heater control valve. Under the hood connected to one of the two heater hoses going into the heater core-poking out of the firewall. It could be out of adjustment or bad (meaning it is not closing off the coolant). There is also a "flap" inside the evap/heater core box that could be the issue.
3. Check to be sure it didn't blow a fuse.

Cobalt_daddy

thanks! i'll do some poking around and see what i can find

poorman212

Forgot #3, Either get a new gasket for the tail light or seal it well or the water will find its way back in...you can almost be glad the old one is cracked so it is letting the water out, if not it would be completly full of water.

Cobalt_daddy

i have a new tail light assembly on the way.. just hoping that when i replace the bulb it will make all the tail lights work again.. thanks again for your help if i have any other questions i'll be sure to ask them

Cobalt_daddy

hmm i'm not sure i see the heater core on the firewall.. wish i had a haynes manual... is it on the left side of the firewall or the right looking at the car straight on. does it look like a box or a canister?

accordmatt

in the center right under ur air vent right next to firewall theres a flap u can switch over that should loosen it up if u move it back and forth and should be able to turn to cool or hot inside. its right between im and firewall

poorman212

Found my manual for that year, it is like my 95 so the cables (yes there are two) can be adjusted. If you have a service manual (15-30~15-33 is the sections). If not pm me with your e-mail and I can send just that section.

lazlong

Half the fluid in your tranny is in the torque converter. A drain and fill doesn't replace the fluid still in your torque converter. Go and get a tranny flush, costs about $80.

poorman212

Flush or not to flush???? Everone will have their own answer.
If you do several drain, fill, drive cycles you can get there. For $80, I have to ask what type of fluid is being used. Last time I got Z1 is was ~$80 for a case. The 95 has the original trans and still runs strong at 360K.

lazlong

Maybe $80 retail but, I seriously doubt that someone who invests in a flush machine is gonna pay retail for their fluid. We've always taken it to the quick lube place down the street (where I know the guys) and had no problem. Dad's had 320K before he sold it and no problems.

Cobalt_daddy

Crap i washed the engine bay and wiped some things down .. Rinsed the engine off not using high pressure and now the car wont start.. Doesnt even click.. There js still power tho.. Did i fry something? Or is this somethng thay can happen and o should let it dry for the day and try again later?

poorman212

Check the battery connections (clean, dry, tight), backyard test-wiht the headlights on, when you try to start what happens to the brightness of the lights. Check the ground (other end from battery).
What is the voltage at the main cable at the starter.

Cobalt_daddy

i got it started but thanks for the help.. it was the battery terminals... tested the battery and there was 12.45V. The terminals looked bad so i guess the water created a barrier on the loose terminals. tok them apart and sanded them. one is still loose but the car starts and runs fine. as for the heater core i don't see it either that or i do and dont recognize it...