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Old 12-15-2007, 09:26 PM   #1
 
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Default HELP!!! Catalytic Converter from Dealership vs Aftermarket

I took my car to the dealership because the check engine light came on. I was told that my catalytic converter needed to be replaced at the modest price of $1200. The service manager said the part itself was expensive (900). I looked around online and saw that they ran anywhere from $70 to $200. I decided to hold off on the repair and he told me the following.

1-If I wait too long, it will make other parts go bad
2-If I put a "universal" cat in, it will go bad in a few thousand miles again because they don't fit like a "Honda" one should and that too would make other parts go bad.

Does anyone have any input on this?? I'm not in the mood for being ripped off, especially since Christmas is coming.

Thanks
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Old 12-16-2007, 08:27 AM   #2
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Default Re: HELP!!! Catalytic Converter from Dealership vs Aftermarket (sdromgoole)

Use only Honda parts!!
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Old 12-16-2007, 10:48 AM   #3
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Muffin Man says universal.
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Old 12-16-2007, 11:49 AM   #4
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Default Re: HELP!!! Catalytic Converter from Dealership vs Aftermarket (sdromgoole)

i know on my 94 i have no o2 sensor in my cat so i just got a test pipe for 30.00 bucks off ebay. 30 min install. otherwise id say go universal too.
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Old 12-16-2007, 12:44 PM   #5
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Default Re: HELP!!! Catalytic Converter from Dealership vs Aftermarket (NeKe1point0)

I just replaced my cat with one bought from t.a.s. It was about 210 bucks and so far its been fine. The only problem is that a cat should never go bad. So if yours did then something caused it.
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Old 12-16-2007, 01:13 PM   #6
 
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Default Re: HELP!!! Catalytic Converter from Dealership vs Aftermarket (NeKe1point0)

there is always gonna be 2 points of view when deciding on OEM(original equipment manufacturer) or after market parts to put on your Honda. you have the true Honda blood who says go original every time, and theres nothing wrong with that. but then there is nothing wrong with going after market either. for example, is that OEM guy gonna have any issues with throwing on a set of after market brake pads if he or she is wanting to stop faster? what about after market rotors? or a cool air intake? or a K&N air filter? probably not. so the question you really should be asking is how much bull**** you want to walk through when talking to the service writer at the dealership.
he told you that "1-If I wait too long, it will make other parts go bad" i wonder which parts he was referring to, cause i seriously doubt that.
" 2-If I put a "universal" cat in, it will go bad in a few thousand miles again because they don't fit like a "Honda" one should and that too would make other parts go bad." sounds like the service writer needs the award for "scare tactic of the month" because he forgot to mention that if a part is made for the control of exhaust emissions on a vehicle that rides on U.S. roads and highways then it by law has to meet the EXACT federal emissions standards set by the E.P.A. for the vehicle the part was designed for. unless the part has a label stating "for off road use only". or your driving a California sold car. now as far as fitting like Honda parts, theres plenty of after market cats that are direct bolt on replacements, so fitting isn't really that much of an issue. so go with an after market cat, have a local shop install your bolt in part, and use the other 700.00 you save and take your mom or girlfriend out to dinner.
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Old 12-16-2007, 05:42 PM   #7
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Default Re: HELP!!! Catalytic Converter from Dealership vs Aftermarket (jravensc)

Quote:
Originally Posted by jravensc
I just replaced my cat with one bought from t.a.s. It was about 210 bucks and so far its been fine. The only problem is that a cat should never go bad. So if yours did then something caused it.

lolz. not true dude. they are even recommended to be changed i do believe. its a wear and tear item, and they do rust.
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Old 12-16-2007, 09:23 PM   #8
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Default Re: HELP!!! Catalytic Converter from Dealership vs Aftermarket (sony224422)

"Catalytic Converters start a chemical reaction but do not enter into the the chemical reaction. Therefore, catalyti converters do not wear out and they do not die of old age. If a cat is found to be defective (nonfunctioning or clogged) look for the root cause. Remember this:

Catalytic converters do not commit suicide-they're murdered.

Items that should be checked when a defective cat is discovered include all components of the ignition and the fuel systems. Excessive unburned fuel can cause the cat to overheat and fail. They o2 sensor must be working and fluctuating from 0.5 to 5 Hz (times per second) to provide the necessary air-fuel mixture variations for maximum cat efficiency."

-Automotive Fuel and Emissions Control Systems


As for rust. Yes, if the cat is rusted to hell i would recommend replacement.
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Old 12-17-2007, 07:08 AM   #9
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Default Re: HELP!!! Catalytic Converter from Dealership vs Aftermarket (sdromgoole)

UNIVERSAL is perfectly fine. Go to a local muffler shop and get one put on. Ive been to muffler shops that will get hired by dealerships to replace mufflers and catalytic converters. They will charge the dealership like 250 and the dealership will charge the customer $1200 (YOU!)
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Old 12-17-2007, 11:30 AM   #10
 
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you got $ 900.00 for a OEM honda converter?

i would get a universal OR, look around the junk yards, i know some junk yards dont sell these catalytic converters to the pub but money talks...

or get yourself those $70-$200 ones you mentioned.
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Old 12-17-2007, 02:27 PM   #11
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Default Re: HELP!!! Catalytic Converter from Dealership vs Aftermarket (jravensc)

Quote:
Originally Posted by jravensc
"Catalytic Converters start a chemical reaction but do not enter into the the chemical reaction. Therefore, catalyti converters do not wear out and they do not die of old age. If a cat is found to be defective (nonfunctioning or clogged) look for the root cause. Remember this:

Catalytic converters do not commit suicide-they're murdered.

Items that should be checked when a defective cat is discovered include all components of the ignition and the fuel systems. Excessive unburned fuel can cause the cat to overheat and fail. They o2 sensor must be working and fluctuating from 0.5 to 5 Hz (times per second) to provide the necessary air-fuel mixture variations for maximum cat efficiency."

-Automotive Fuel and Emissions Control Systems


As for rust. Yes, if the cat is rusted to hell i would recommend replacement.

while that may be true, how many cars you you know of with orignal cats with over 180k? they break down, and eventually plug up or stop working. they do just fall apart.. happened in my truck.
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Old 12-18-2007, 02:13 PM   #12
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Default Re: HELP!!! Catalytic Converter from Dealership vs Aftermarket (sdromgoole)

First, you did not give MY. But regardless, here is the deal:

1. Factory OEM CATS are the best becasue the mfr wants to sell good cars and not be sued. The OEM CAT should last at least 150k.
2. Most of the vehicle mfrs and dealerships provide lesser than factory OEM parts, right after the vehicle is out of warranty. Suddenly they have a new vendor and the parts prices drop dramatically. But you still pay far too much for what you get, dealership markup, essentially, for an aftermarket CAT.
3. You can look for a Certified Refurbed OEM CAT and save some $$$.
4. If yours is not too far gone you can clean it and hopefully salvage it. Please dont torch it.
5. Bad O2 Sensors kill CATS, but bad CATS do not kill any other parts. Of course, a clogged cat can shut your engine down, but just let it cool down and off you go again.
6. Yes, there are cats made in China, etc., that are pure junk and wont last like a factory OEM CAT. I heard of yearly replacement but the Bosals I bought have gone close to five before replacement. The factory CATS are always bigger with far more precious metals and just plain made better.
7. What to do if none of the above helps. I'll tell what I am going to do and I do not give a **** if the EPA themselves know it. I am virtually in the same boat as your are every F_____g year for emissions testing time, especially with $3+ gas and breakfast cereal that is supposed to go to $7/box. It never ocuured to me before, but one day I thought, the next aftermarket CAT I buy will be the last one because I am putting it on the day before I get the car tested and as soon as it passes I am taking it off and keeping it nice and fresh until next year, etc., etc., and during the year I will run the bad CAT gutted, so clogging doesn't shut me down, or ...
8. Move to Schuylkill County, Pa, they have no emissions testing!


Be glad you don't own a Mercedes - $3k for a CAT - cost more than a used Honda!


Modified by diyer at 4:06 PM 1/6/2008
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Old 12-18-2007, 02:34 PM   #13
 
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Thanks everyone.

1- I am a girl
2-The little shop around the corner is going to do it for 512 installed. I could probably get it somewhere cheaper but oh well.
3-PS, my mileage is 117K and for a Honda isn't high. Matter of fact, I had to put a new trans in last year.
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Old 12-18-2007, 04:28 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sdromgoole
Thanks everyone.

Your welcome. btw what is the Honda Model and Year?

1- I am a girl

2-The little shop around the corner is going to do it for 512 installed. I could probably get it somewhere cheaper but oh well.

3-PS, my mileage is 117K and for a Honda isn't high. Matter of fact, I had to put a new trans in last year.
.

Ok, your a female - knowledge is not sexist. But from your writing I can tell you could most likely not do this job, but I hope you can change that someday. Jeez, Woodbury, NJ, if I wasnt so swamped with my own work, I would help you do the job. I live in Philly, isn't that kinda near Woodbury? If nothing else, I hope you can learn enough about your vehicle, so you can make better decisions.

I still think that $512 is way too much for taking a CAT out and putting in four bolts, and yes I'm sure you can have it done somewhere alot cheaper. May I ask what brand of CAT they propose installing? Hey, dont be afraid to tell them to shove it, and look elswhere. Mechanics are a dime a dozen.

Boy, what is it with Honda Transmissions?! All I ever hear is how reliable and durable Honda motor vehicles are. So, why is it they suffer so many tranny problems, or is it that these modders/ricers are racing and abusing them and those are the ones I am hearing about. I never had a car yet with a bad tranny. If I did, I would never buy that brand again. A tranny is just something that should not have any problems within 200k. My Volvo trannies are built like tanks. Then again the older European Philosophy was to give you an extra 20% margin of error when the build the vehicle. Not sure if that holds true anymore though, with everyone copying the Jap designs, aluminum engines, low fronts-high backs.
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Old 12-19-2007, 08:53 AM   #15
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code p0420?

try giving it a tune-up, new cap, rotor, plugs and wires cost you 200 bucks and it seems to have corrected my catalytic converter inefficiency and I have 116k on original cap and rotor
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Old 12-19-2007, 09:34 AM   #16
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Quote:
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...My Volvo trannies are built like tanks...
What Volvos do you have? Until a few months ago I drove a '93 945T. On that car I put on an IPD sport exhaust and a cat from fcpgroton. It was a nice car with tons of cargo space, but I was basically given a '95 Camry in better shape - I now use that as my commuter.

Anyway, back to the original poster, what is the year of your Accord and what size engine? For my '99 LX, I can pick up a Honda OEM cat for $406 from here:

http://www.manchestermotorsports.com/index.cfm

Add in $45 for bolts, $32 for new covers if needed, and $104 for a new rear oxygen sensor (I don't know if it's supposed to be replaced with the cat or not).

How long do you plan on keeping the car? If you plan on keeping it for a while, replace the rest of the exhaust behind the cat at the same time, about $220 for OEM parts (?). This way you would be replacing the cat plus cat back (roughly $800 worth of parts for everything including the new oxygen sensor (if needed?)), it will be a much easier install than if you were to replace just the cat.

It is possible to do this yourself, or you can hire somebody. If you hire somebody, just tell them that you can buy the Honda OEM system for $x , can they beat that price and if not, how much would just installation be? Some mechanics may act offended and tell you that they won’t install parts that the customers bring in, just go to a different mechanic, there are lots out there and your request is certainly a reasonable request.
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Old 12-19-2007, 04:17 PM   #17
 
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I have a 99 Accord EX. 3 Liter. I bought that car anticipating I would have it for the next 10 years. I LOVE my car and know these cars can run well into the 200k. My husband said he was going to take a look at it this weekend. If that's all it is 4 bolts, I'm sure he can do it himself. If the dealer did a diagnostic, wouldn't they know if it just needed a tune up? I asked how they knew it just wasn't a sensor that went bad and he said it was tested. Does it really make a difference if I put in a Honda CAT vs an OEM? Will one last longer or run better? I take good of my car and keep up with the maintenance so whatever it needs I am willing to fix but I refused to be ripped off from the stealership!!!!
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Old 12-20-2007, 04:38 AM   #18
 
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I called the shop this morning. They are using a direct fit cat, not a universal. Whatever that means.
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Old 12-20-2007, 05:00 AM   #19
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I cleared my factory cat and my check engine light is always on :[
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Old 12-20-2007, 06:00 AM   #20
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Because your car is probably OBD2 and is looking for an 02 sensor.

Or it may not even be related to the cat at all. Check the code
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Old 12-20-2007, 07:33 AM   #21
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Quote:
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What Volvos do you have? ...
89, 245, and a 91, 740 Regina. I think My sis got a 2000 V70, but I dont count that as a true Volvo, its more of a cross over period Volvo - half Jap half Swedish. Btw, one of the primary reasons why the older Swedish powertrains can last so long, is that the best and more pure iron ore comes from Sweden, I dont remember exactly why, but it either lacked something that other ores have, or it had something other ores did not have, which in the end results in a higher quality iron and steel.

I really like the quality and designs of the electronics, the sheet metal, and the various mechanical components of the Honda Accords, and if I do not suffer any tranny problems, it will be a vehicle that I will continue to support and use and invest in. But if I have any tranny problem, and I read about plenty of people having tranny problems with Hondas and Acuras, I will get rid of it in a heartbeat and that my friends will be the end of my ever getting a Jap car again. On the other hand, my Brother has a 98 Camry and he has had no problems with that car. Go figure. I wonder if it is just Hondas that have weak Trannies - A Honda shop foreman actually told me exactly that. Boy, I sure hope he was wrong.

But if it turns out to be true, I will most certainly go back to European vehicles, most likely, either get a BMW or a Audi Quattro. I always liked RWD vs, transaxles (wind up toys). Not sure about durable 4WD is?
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Old 12-20-2007, 08:11 AM   #22
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Quote:
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... my Brother has a 98 Camry and he has had no problems with that car. Go figure. I wonder if it is just Hondas that have weak Trannies - A Honda shop foreman actually told me exactly that...
Camry's had a bad problem with sludge in the engine in either the late '90s or early '00s (burned oil inside the engine). My '95 Camry is still running just fine. As far as the Volvos go, they were great cars until the 940 left production ('95 or '96?), after that there were too many electronics in them that really can't be fixed by the do-it-yourselfer. The automatic tranny in the '93 945T I had was just fine at 165,000 miles.

Speaking of automatic transmissions, yes, the 6th generation had bad automatic transmissions. My car has a manual transmission so the tranny problems don't affect me.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sdromgoole
I called the shop this morning. They are using a direct fit cat, not a universal. Whatever that means.
"The shop" - is that the dealer or a private mechanic? And direct fit means that it, well, fits directly without modifications. Universals can be made to fit of course.

Back to OEM or aftermarket, go OEM unless you think that you'll be selling the car in the near future (say, a year or two). If you do go OEM, buy online and have an independent mechanic put it in, and consider replacing your entire exhaust system (cat plus cat-back) at the same time.
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Old 12-20-2007, 10:35 AM   #23
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i hate that the dealership always recommends the largest most expensive piece to be replaced. i hardly think the cat is at fault! they should last 200k miles on the car. if not it should be under a service warranty.

i'll check if there is a service bulletin on your car.
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Old 01-06-2008, 12:10 PM   #24
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I cleared my factory cat and my check engine light is always on :[
What do you mean cleared ?
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Old 01-06-2008, 12:44 PM   #25
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Default Re: (diyer)

He means that he actually removed all of the catalyst material from the converter casing itself.

Without the catalyst it will throw a code because the exhaust gases have not been altered by that catalyst. A test pipe will give you the same results as it obviously contains no catalyst either. Some people hollow out there cats to give the look that the exhaust is still stock. This facade works in places that still require the existence of a catalytic converter but do not use the exhaust sniffers to test the gases. A test pipe should fail any legitimate exhaust inspection with or without a sniffer.
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