parsapour

Dears,
appreciate having your comment on how can clean heater core on 1991 accord, as heater blows cold air, I have once used head gasket fluid to repair coolant leakage, can it be of reason for such defect ?
how can i clean/ flush the heater core to remove debris? is there known cleaner in market for such task?
Thanks,

jdowen2

Prestone makes a kit that you splice into one of the heater hoses. It has a fitting that allows the garden hose to be screwed in, turn on water supply, and the water flow back flushes the heater core. Are you sure your heater control valve is opening?

StreetsideStig

I was wondering the same thing. What's the stuff you used to plug the hole? Where was the hole?

95halx

Stupid ? but did you make sure there is colant/water in the radiator.

parsapour

I checked and found out that heater out hose remaines cool while engine is on & heater switch is all on hot position, meaning that coolant can not pass heater core due to bouble so needed to bleed, I tried to bleed through T/S bleeding nipple, but no result!!, then I tried to let air being escaped by disconnecting the heater out hose, I removed the clamp but could not detach the hose as it was really tight and could not pull it out easilly. my question is if there would be any effective way to remove trapped air out of the heater core without damaging its hoses?
Thanks,

parsapour

Tnks, Dear Jdowen2; Yes I turned the valve control nub on Dashboard all way to hot position and checked the valve open position (undwer the dash). what I reached to is that heater remains cool while inlet hose is hot and outlet yet remains cold, I guess there's air bouble preventing heater core to be filled with coolant, I tried to bleed via T/S Housing Nipple but it did not solve the issue, I tried to detach the return heater hose but it was not easy to remove. I wonder if there would be effective procedure for removing trapped air form the H-Core?
Thanks,

parsapour

Dear 95halks,
For sure, coolant/water is full both in radiator and side container, thanks for your comment,

parsapour

Dear Streetside Stig;
in fact it was not as plugging the hole, I was noticing coolant shortage in short intervals, , I thought it maight caused by Head Gasket leackage, then I went for web advertised product called block head gasket sealant i.e. sodium silicat product and I bought it and used but with very short effect and job failled after limited time, finally I changed the head gasket as actual resolve and proper action. I DO NOT RECOMMEND USING SUCH SEALANT PRODUCTs SINCE THERE WOULD BE LOSSING MONEY AND TIME WITH HIGH RISK OF BLOCKAGE OF RADIATOR'S NARROW TUBES/PASSAGES causing coolant action failure,

holmesnmanny

Where the heater valve is at the firewall in the engine bay, when you turn the dial inside the car, that valve should both open and close.

Check and see if it moves. If not, the problem is that the heater control valve cable is broke or not attached anymore. Also, you can manually open that valve to get coolant flowing into the heater core again.

If the cable is broke you should notice it's really easy to turn the dial from hot to cold and visa versa.

If the cable is attached there should be resistance.

holmesnmanny

If the valve works, and you think the heater core is blocked you will need to remove the dash to get to the heater core if you choose to replace it.

holmesnmanny

You can also do this to try to unplug the blockage....


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dcL_0TWeZJY

parsapour

No broken cable , no resistance every functions fine and mooving smooth, seems coolant not passing by the heater Core. Tnks.

parsapour

Regret as I could not open the given link, is it possible to forwd the specified file by an email attachment? to my email address as belows;
parsapours@aol.com;
Regards.

holmesnmanny

There should be some resistance when you turn the dial, otherwise that means that the cable is probably not connected. Like I said, you can manually open and close the valve with your hands.

I can't send that file, I linked to a video at youtube. You're gonna need to have flash installed to view that video.

parsapour

Many thanks,
Dial turns quite normal and cable is connected and valve moves duly by hand, no hesitate on this part.
regarding opening the file, you are right , I need to re install Flash to get the file open
thanks.

doctorbee

the only head gasket sealer i recommend is BAR's.

you will need to flush your entire cooling system to get rid of the stop leak. you will also need to flush the heater core.

parsapour

Yes, but how to proceed flushing the cooling system and heater core? can it be done with garden hose and simple water ? or we have to do that with special chemical to remove the sedements and the ex-block sealant residue in the system?

doctorbee

yes, you will need a chemical flush and to flush in the opposite direction of flow. It's probably all up inside your engine and radiator as well.

holmesnmanny

I always question flushing the core instead of just replacing it. Yes, it's not easy to pull the dash, but I like the idea of having a nice new clean core instead of one that's clearly already bad and just trying to put a bandaid on it, so to speak.

parsapour

Any idea on what chemical (name/ specs /commercial name/ formula) to be applied for subject flushing? and how to DO that ?

doctorbee

You cant see youtube links? wow your car isn't the only thing that's messed up.
you an use only water but for the best results pick up a can of flush.

try again:

parsapour

Finally I could flush the heater core on reverse direction by garden water hose and result was almost 75-80% succesful, I wish to thank all the contributors on this post for their shared comments and hints good luck and look forwards for next occasion .

StancedEgC0upe

I recommend the Prestone's flush kit if you end up using it it solved my problems!

holmesnmanny

NP, always glad to help out a fellow accorder