dman81

What's up guys, today I went in for a smog test and my car failed. The tech said my timing is off, something about it needing to be at 12 and I was at 15. He said if he fixes the timing it might cause the NO PPM to go higher and causing a fail since I am already at the max. So dam if I do dam if I don't essentially. I am uploading my results to get a more accurate suggestion. I'm already out $52 for this failed test and will be out another $20 for the retest. Before I spend any more money what are some things I can do myself?

Brocko

Not sure what ur driving.
1. over advanced timing will increase NOx, but I'd set it to spec anyway - at least to 14btdc. That will ensure u pass the functional timing check.
You can rent a timing light from a auto parts store. The spec will be on the sticker on the hood.
2. I have a 97 accord 2.2l and I remember cleaning out the egr passages. It's a problem with these engines. There's a "sticky" somewhere on one of the forums on the web with directions.
The EGR cools the charge in the combustion chamber and high temp combustion causes NOx.
3. You can test ur egr valve effectiveness by applying vacuum and seeing if the engine dies at idle. I bet after you clean the passages it will die pretty quick.

I bet that's it. I was a smog tech before, but I'm a little rusty...

Let us know if the passages were all gummed up

RotaryBzzz

Did you just buy the car? Odd, timing sounds like it was retarded to pass the smog test to sell it to you previously?

If you set the timing to factory, yes in your case, it will increaes the NOX.
It will also increase the felt power.

dman81

I'm driving a 95 Honda Accord and this is the first time it's failed. I been coming to this smog tech the last few years and each time he always mentions the NO PPM is borderline.

holmesnmanny

Fix the timing and clean out your egr ports. Should have no problem passing.

MAD_MIKE

I'm concerned with the 25MPH test, your CO2 drops, it should maintain a ~15%. High CO2, with our cars 15%, is an indication of a complete burn. The drop at 25MPH indicates a combustion issue.

Fix the base timing first. Doesn't matter what you do, if this is incorrect you will fail the visual inspection. No real way to cheat this so verify the timing is correct.

Verify the lower timing belt cover is installed correctly and not damaged, as this has the ignition timing pointer mounted to it, made of plastic it can be damaged which can show incorrect timing even if the timing is correct.

Verify the crank pulley damper ring has not slipped. Check the elastomer ring between the outer ring and inner hub, it should not be damaged. Although older pulleys may show some checking of the rubber but it should not allow the outer ring to slip or be loose.

To verify base timing is correct. Warm engine up to operating temp, shut off. Jumper two wire blue connector behind/below the glovebox door. Restart engine and verify base timing is correct(Red marks on pulley. If paint is missing the timing marks are the three notches for timing. Single white mark is mechanical TDC mark.) Adjust as necessary. Note if any codes are stored.

Do the basics, check for air/air filter, check your spark(should be a blue spark) along with verifying the plugs are gapped correctly and not worn. If they are worn replace, if no record of O2 sensor replacement, replace it as well as they become lazy over time. Check the fuel pressure is within spec. If you have no record of it, this would be a good time to replace the fuel filter as well. Same with air filter, replace before test if it is slightly dirty.

Verify compression is within spec. This would also be a good time to check valve adjustment.

With plugs out, look at the tops of the pistons. There will be some carbon on the tops but there should not be a build up. This will increase CR and increase NOx production.

Check the PCV valve, hose, and port in the intake manifold are not clogged or gummed up with carbon/sludge/soot. Clean as needed and verify the PCV valve rattles when you shake it. Verify the fresh air feed tube from the valve cover to the intake tube is not clogged or damaged.

Verify the EGR manifold is clear.
Remove vacuum hoses to the fuel rail/FPR and unbolt the fuel rail from the intake manifold. If you can pull the fuel rail off with the injectors. This way you can clean the tips of the injectors with cleaner and paper towels. Carbon buildup on the tips can affect spray. Use some small bungee cords to hold the fuel rail up and away from the EGR manifold for cleaning. Remove the five 10mm headed bolts from the EGR manifold and pull it away complete. Using a #1 and #2 flat head screwdriver and vacuum to 'drill' out the carbon in the ports on the intake manifold runners. Start with the #2 screw driver and gently screw/drill it into the port while vacuuming. There will be a step so do not force the screwdriver or damage the port. Use the smaller #1 flat head to drill out the rest of the carbon while using the vacuum to suck up the carbon/soot. Each smaller port is of a different size. IIRC #1 cyl is largest and #4 is smallest. Clear them out completely. Open the EGR manifold it is a two piece unit. Clear the channels of the manifold out to allow unimpeded flow. Don't scratch the flat surface of the lower plate, that is a gasket surface wipe it down with carb/TB cleaner.

A fuel treatment of Seafoam in the gas tank and SeaFoam cleaning of the intake tract via the brake booster hose will break up and remove varish/carbon build up on the backsides of the intake valves. Put some in the oil as well and drive the car a few hundred miles to break up/remove gunk from the rings. Change oil and oil filter as fuel contaminated oil will affect emissions output.