raj49

So I could'nt remove the crank seal so Im gonna have to remove the oil pump cover. Anybody have a how-to or advice? I'd certainly appreciate it.

Do I have to remove the oil pan and pump to get the cover off? Are the oil pump gears right behind the cover?

accord99power

are you refering to the crankshaft seal on the timing belt side or the rear main seal on the flywheel side? i did the rear main seal without removing the oil pan. the crankshaft seal i could do without removing the oil pan. do you have a specific reason for removing the oil pump cover?

raj49

I was trying to remove the front (timing belt side) crank seal. I tore it up trying and could'nt get it off. So now i think i gotta remove the oil pump housing and remove the seal from behind.

accord99power

ahhh i see what your saying i dont remember exaclty what it looks like again so i couldnt tell ya then. sorry man.

hondamark35

what you're calling the oil pump cover, is the oil pump itself. this is a pretty drastic measure to get a seal out. if there's still a seal there to get out, you can get a small screwdriver in there to pop it out.

small screwdriver downward, diagonally through the ID of the seal (adjacent to the crank "snout"). carefully pry the back of the seal with the tip of the screwdriver. be sure to avoid scratching the crank or the seal bore in the pump housing. this should get what's left of the seal out.

for the sake of general info and understanding of the F23A1 here are some pics from my B-shaft Elim. kit install.

this is the oil pump. you can see the pan had to come off, and the oil pickup has to come off (lower port on the pump). there are maybe 8 bolts that hold the pump to the block.


here you can see the back side of the pump once it's off of the block. that middle plate with the 8 philips screws is the actual pump housing. you'll also notice that the rear balance shaft had to be removed along with the pump housing (likely not too easy with the motor in the car...)


here is the bare block. you can see the bright mount surface left by the pump. this area must be cleaned. at reassembly, you've got to apply an even bead of Hondabond to this area to seal the pump to the block. same deal for putting the oil pan back on.

raj49

Nice pics and thanks for the info. Yea I realized the oil pump gears are in the cover. Wow, the rear balance shaft had to come out with the cover? Why is that? Is there no way to hold that gear while removing the bolt? What about the maintanance hole on the rear of block?
If the shaft has to come out as well, theres no way Im gonna get the oil pump housing off.

Also, I got part of the metal ring out from the seal but it streched and broke while I was trying to pry the seal out. Half the seal is still there though. havent given up. yet

hondamark35

it may be possible to take that gear off and leave the shaft in the block, but if i remember correctly, i was a pretty tight fit.

stick with that seal, you'll get it

raj49

Yea dude. I dont think its happening. Im gonna have to take the oil pump housing off. I think I remove clutch cover, exhaust pipe, and that left beam then oil pan. But I dont see any bolts near the front for the left beam. I see the 3 nuts/bolts in the rear. I hope I dont have to drill out the front.

TouringAccord

the part you are calling the left beam, I assume that is the part that spans from the rear beam to the front beam of the front subframe? If so, there should be 2 bolts mounting it to the front beam, or it might be 3 bolts, I dont quite remember.

raj49

On the 98 through 02 accord (I think), there are no bolts to the front. I think it maybe spot welded. In chilton, it says there are 3 bolts to the front and back but I dont see any to the front. There are 3 bolts to the back. I wonder if I can pivot that beam?

TouringAccord

ah, wow, didn't realize they were different on those years.

by looking at the diagram below it doesn't look like those are removable from the front beam.

If you need those removed looks like the front beam will need to be dropped.

raj49

If I do get the oil pan off and oil pump housing unbolted, it has to clear the front balance shaft and one stud from the rear balance shaft gear assembly as in your pics. This sucks

raj49

TouringAccord is awesome! I have to register my opinion before you get home. Your good people.
Thanks!! <--- hope thats not gay.

accord99power

the radius rods have to come out before subframe is dropped, also haynes manual wants you to make marks at the end of the subframe (where the bolts are) so you can realign it correctly. its not that difficult though. just some more info for ya, touringaccord is really good with info and diagrams he must have a library of them just ready to be scanned and posted haha, just messin with ya touring!

TouringAccord

haha, thanks. I'm glad I could help

just so everyone knows what he's talking about... He lives close to where I work so I stopped at his house yesterday after work to remove the crankshaft oil seal for him and also show him how. nice guy, had the right idea just wasn't exactly sure and didn't want to mess anything up.

TouringAccord

lol, no problem. thanks

despat

TouringAccord, I've just changed my Oil pan housing from OBD1 (without the sensors) to the OBD2 (w/sensors). I also changed other parts (that are different in the engines like crankshaft spoket etc..). Anyway, I put the engine in TDC making sure the that mark on top pulley and the bottom pully (under balancer pulley) are pointing at TDC. I didn't measure any other points besides these two. Just want to know if the front and back balancer shaft rods (or any other pulleys) have to be aligned in any way before putting the belts on (or can they be in any orientation).

Thanks