AtoZ

i need to do my drive shafts for a 95 accord with an auto-trans, and a v-tec 4 cyl. The repair manuals say to check the inner splines and shaft for looseness and to replace the inboard joint. i didnt see any mention of any other problems, as if to say anything else not mentioned is not a problem. Nothing about clicking nosies torn boots grease loss, all of which i have. But also have not checked the inboard joint or shaft yet, but i bet it is not loose, just a hunch. i'm starting to wonder if maybe my shafts are ok and just need new boots and refilling with grease. i'm getting two conflicting explanations from local techs. Some say the clicking just means they need grease. Others say it means you need new shafts. Still others say the first symptom is clicking, and you need grease, and if it is not done you will eventually need shafts, how long that takes they did not say. And i got this car used like that so i dont know how long it was like that. Then i spoke to a shaft rebuilder and he told me never to fully turn the steering wheel as far as it can go because it stresses the joints and can cause a clicking noise. He said clicking coming from a fully turned wheel is not the proper test. He said that you want to listen for clicking on a standard moderate turn around a corner while driving the car. Well, my boots are torn and im sure they need grease, so its a matter of replacing them anyway, so i was just curious what is the truth about if i really need driveshafts or not?

about installing the shafts, uh, it says to put a 12mm nut on the end of the ball joint after i take off the castle nut?

are the spindle nuts T.T.Y. fasteners?

what really surprised me was what i read in the archives about the removal job. Some guy said he was a honda tech and he does the quickest way he can.and he said you do not have to take the fork off that the shaft will slide right out thru the wishbone (wishbone? i guess he means the damper fork) and he said all you need to remove is the lower ball joint (i guess he means on the lower control arm) and swing the knuckle out and that is all u need to do. is that true, because helms includes the fork removal

thanks, atoz

Duane_in_Japan

If it is clicking in any kind of turn then you need a rebuilt or new shaft, it is less work than replacing the outer CV Joint alone, sometimes the outer joint does not want to come off plus the rebuilt or new shaft may even come with a nice warantee.

Taking off the wishbone is much easier that popping the lower balljoint out, no 12mm nuts involved in that area and no need to remove spindle nuts nor TTY anything either.

More help if you need it.

scabbs

yeah I put grease in mine and they still clicked after replacing the boots on both of my axles.. haha... I went to oreilly's and bought 2 new axles n I gotta life time warrenty:D

AtoZ

Duane, ok, i'm getting new or rebuilt axles. My question was if the job could be done only taking off the lower ball and not the wishbone. Are you saying that i only need to remove the wishbone, and not the lower control arm? But then how does the axle come out, cause i'll need to be able to swing the knuckle.

As for the 12mm nuts, i was referring to the helms manual telling the technician to put a 12mm nut on the lower ball joint threads before using the puller to avoid damaging the threads on the pin.

No need to remove the spindle nut. R u for real? That sounds bizarre to me. How is the axle going to come out?