aowpsycho

I am having trouble removing the axle nut from my cv axle and I think it is because the little metal piece that is supposed to be hammered up is stuck in there and I can't get it out. It looks like it is smashed inside there and no way to get it out. I have tried using a pick and hammer and screwdrivers and such to no avail. When I try to loosen the axle nut, the whole rotor will spin when I put a lot of pressure on it (I do have a friend pushing on the brakes). Any suggestions as to how I can get this off?

jdmwannabee

try your best to un-stake it. maybe a torch. do you have access to an impact wrench?

angel_i

Stick a screwdriver in the caliper and make sure it wedges into the vent holes of the rotor and give it a try. Same goes for tightening it back up.

aowpsycho

But isn't it a matter of that piece of metal holding it in place turning the rotor? I will try wedging that screwdriver in there, but you think I'd have success in cutting it off without damaging the cv axle if all else fails?

oh and my impact apparently isn't strong enough.

aowpsycho

ok cancel that the screwdriver trick worked thanks!

now a different problem...I forgot the brake was disassembled on the other side so while my friend kept pressing the brake the piston came completely out and brake fluid spilled all over my driveway. I have never completely removed a piston so I don't know how to compress it enough to fit the piston back in. My C clamp isn't large enough since its all the way out. Also, should I put new fluid mixed with the old fluid or do I have to completely flush the system (which I don't really have time to do).

TOAB

Define completely out...

If it's just extended really far, buy a bigger C clamp, use old brake pads to disperse the pressure, and push it back in. You don't need all new fluid, you'll just need to make sure all the air gets out of the system.

aowpsycho

Well to define it accurately I am holding the piston in my hand so it is out all the way. The boot is completely fine, but can this be put back in myself?

93cb7colorado

YOU CAN PUT IT BACK IN BUTMAKE SURE THAT THE PISTON IS CLEAN AND THERE IS NO ROCKS OR DIRT ON IT. DO YOU HAVE A CLAMP OFF THE COLD AIR INTAKE THAT WULD FIT AROUND THE CALIPER? IF YOU DO YOU THAT AND SLOWLY SCREW IT TIGHTER. REMEBER TO TAKE OFF THE MASTER CAP

aowpsycho

So I'm puzzled now. I took off the boot and secured it around the piston and was able (with a bit of struggle) to push the piston all the way in with my hands. Problem is that when I pump the brakes now, it doesn't compress the piston AT ALL. What have I got myself into?

tamadrummer1120

Head on over to like advanced and pick up a caliper. Might as well this time.

aowpsycho

Is that my only resort? And if I am disconnecting the lines does that mean I have to bleed the system and put new fluid in?

tamadrummer1120

If you disconnect any line, yes, you need to bleed it. I would say pick up a loaded caliper, just because its not that expensive, and it is better than you getting really upset and worked up over trying to get the old piston into the caliper.

FIGARILA

iTrader: (1)

Have you tried bleeding the caliper in question? Not only did you lose fluid you probably let air into the line. You might be able to get away with just bleeding that caliper and not the whole system.

FIGARILA

iTrader: (1)

I wouldn't buy a reman'd caliper quite yet. The only difference between your old caliper and new Reman'd one is a $3 rebuild kit.

aowpsycho

I was able to push the piston into the caliper though, but now when I apply the brakes it doesn't push the pistons out, so no brakes basically. Will that be fixed when I bleed the system you think? I can't even pull the pistons out by hand either so its stuck in the caliper.

I havn't yet because its getting dark and I don't want to get into something that I am not that familiar with until tomorrow. I imagine I just pinch off that hose and unscrew it from the caliper and then drain it from that hose? (Never done a flush before)

street_ride14

^ once you add new fluid and bleed brakes you will get back the pressure you once had.

phootbag

Bleed the brakes. Let us know...

phootbag

Put the caliper on... open the bleed screw... dont let the master go empty. if the master went empty when the piston came out you need to do a full bleed on all calipers not just the one.

aowpsycho

How big of a task would you say bleeding the whole system and putting new fluid in would be? Like all I have to do is take off all the wheels and then bleed the brakes on each one in a particular order correct? I don't have to remove anything else but the wheels themselves right?

phootbag

Correct. Gravity bleed is fine. Just takes a while.

phootbag

Its easy. just make sure you have good pedal after. ( hold pedal for a while making sure it doesnt sink ) also triple check for leaks...

aowpsycho

Ok so here's the update. I finished changing the rotors and I bled the one brake line that I opened. The brake pedal felt really solid until I started the car and then it went down farther. So I took it for a test drive and it drives nicely, and the car doesn't shake anymore when I do hard stops. However, it doesn't come to a fast enough stop. Its more like a slow halt rather than a sudden stop. I'm thinking I need to bleed all four brakes because the master cylinder did get a little low. Would you guys agree?

On a side note, when I was done testing it (which I did lots of fast stops) the left side was smoking a little bit. Could this be the lubrication heating up or anything along those lines or would it be my brake pads (duralast ceramics)? I'm sure I installed everything correctly. Thanks for the suggestions.

phootbag

I imagine you chose the wrong combination rotors/pads and dont have enough friction. The pedal probably went down due to the vacuum booster working. If the pedal feels hard engine off after a few pumps to empty the booster you dont need to bleed. Smoke could be contamination on the pads or rotors. Could also cause low friction and difficult stops.

TouringAccord

no offense but that sounds like BS. This is an Accord (DD not race AFAIK), not some 9,000lb truck. Just about any pad/rotor combo is going to be fine.

I'd look at maybe air still being in the lines. That will heat up faster than the fluid and decrease stopping performance.

op, as for the pedal going down when you hit the brakes on your test drive, I would take a guess that maybe you didn't pump the brakes enough times before going out for that test drive. Is it still doing this or has it gotten better?

Bleed all the lines. It cant hurt and it doesn't take much time at all. Just get a small vacuum hose that fits snug over the bleeders and run that into a jar. Have someone pump the pedal 3 times and then hold while you loosen the bleeder to release the pressure and air bubbles and then tighten back up. Do this at each wheel until the fluid runs out clean and free of air all the while making sure to not let the master cylinder go empty.

Did you replace just the pads or did you replace the rotors as well?

Also, I hope the hard stops were done after the brakes got to operating temps and you didn't come to a complete stop. In-properly bedding the brakes can lead to reduced performance and unsatisfactory results.

phootbag

Not BS. I replaced a set of aftermarket pads on an Accord because of the same customer complaint. It fixed the car! After re reading his last post, as Istated, poor braking could be caused by the same thing that made the smoke. He says he has a good pedal.