ShahroseKhan

I've had just few minutes in the car so far, I am looking online to see if anyone else had a similar symptom and I can't find anything. I'll be checking codes on the vehicle shortly.

Long story short, car stopped moving after (ironically) coming to a stop at a stop sign. I tried to move in D4, D3, 1, but RPM went up with no movement of the car whatsoever (acts as if it's in neutral). Finally I tried 2 and was able to drive to the workshop nearby (conveniently happened merely 30 seconds away from workshop).

No check engine light whatsoever at this point, I'll be taking a look at it now to see what else I can notice. Just wanted to start this thread and see if anyone knows what I might be dealing with here.

P.S.: Could this have anything to do with shift solenoids?

MAD_MIKE

Have the memory fuse verified it is not blown and check for codes. If the memory fuse is blown, the PCM will not retain a code. If there are none and the only movement is in R and 2 with no movement in D1 D3 or D4, first gear accumulator or clutch may be defective. Best would be to bring it to a transmission specialist familiar with the Honda AT and its quirks, and have the line pressure and various gear pressures tested.

You can pull the Lockup/SolA shift solenoid pair, upper paired solenoids, off and check that the screens are clean and clear of material. Also can do a click test by applying battery voltage directly the solenoid leads and listen for clicking.

Put the car in 2nd, and get it up to ~30MPH and shift into D3 while letting off the throttle.
If the car upshifts into 3rd the solenoid is fine, if not the solenoid may be bad or the port clogged.

There are various combinations of how and when a gear is activated, depending on load and throttle input, so these are not finite answers, but will give you a better idea of what your transmission is(not) doing.

ShahroseKhan

I was unable to check codes, but I did resistance test on Shift Solenoids A, B and C and all were within specs (didn't have a way to jump test the solenoids to see if they're binding). I need to test the pressure control solenoids next.

I did another drive test as well and found that shifting into D3 or D4 at 20 mph makes them work as if everything was ok, but if you slow down too much or come to a stop, the D3 or D4 won't engage again.

How can the line pressure and various gear pressures be tested? I have access to ALLDATA and a shop full of tools and equipment at my college.

I really appreciate your help

ShahroseKhan

The following page describes "Your Honda does not move with shift lever in manual 2 position, but does in D4, D3, R and manual position 1." as a symptom of a bad Solenoid A. I'm experiencing opposite symptom.....

http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/hon...oid-assembly-1

MAD_MIKE

Before investing in a gauge or mechanic, you can still do two more tests on the solenoid.
Electrically the windings have tested fine, but have you verified it is mechanically working? No.
Beg borrow steal a wire and jumper the solenoid and verify the plunger moves, this will be determined by the clicking as previously mentioned.
If it clicks then the final easy test is to remove the solenoid and verify that the filter is not clogged.
These are very easy and cheap checks to do. Do this before anything else. If the solenoid plunger is jammed or filter is clogged you can easily fix the problem.
If first gear is no longer functioning what happened is expected, D3/D4 starts off in 1st gear. If it no longer works the car will not move forward. If you still need to drive the car, when slowing down or stopping get used to shifting from D3 to D2 in traffic. The car will be slow to accelerate below 15MPH but you will still be able to get around.
There are ports on the case that are plugged with bolts. Alldata should have the locations, procedures, and expected pressures for the trans.

ShahroseKhan

very helpful post sane_Mike

I'll call some friends and see if anyone has something to safely jump the male terminals. One issue on my mind would be the inability to see them without uninstalling components in the way. I had to probe around a lot for resistance test but we can't do that with power and ground in hand.

I'm a little confused about the D1 explanation. I thought the car was still shifting from D1 to D2 while I was using D2 to start moving, because I do see the RPM drop a little.

MAD_MIKE

When placing the gear selector in D2 you are placing the car, manually, into 2nd gear. This bypass' 1st gear completely. D3/D4 start off in 1st gear, this is why you cannot move the car when in these gears. Placing the trans in D2 starts the car in 2nd, then when up to a speed and placing the trans into D3/D4 the trans will shift normally into 3rd and 4th gear, and continue to operate(shift) normally.

When placing the car in a working gear the rpms will drop slightly as the engine is loaded against the torque converter. Be it R or D2, and would do the same with D1, D3, and D4 if First gear worked.

D1 Starts and keeps the transmission in First.
D2 Starts and keeps the transmission in Second(Great for traffic/starting on slippery surfaces).
D3 Starts off in First and limits gear changes to Third gear.
D4 Starts off in First and allows gear changes from First through Fourth.

MAD_MIKE

With shift solenoid A/Lockup pair, only power needs to be applied to the terminals. They are grounded through the solenoid base itself on the pair. B and C solenoids do require a positive and negative wires as the solenoid is isolated from the trans. This pair is very similar to earlier 90-97 shift solenoid pairs.

ShahroseKhan

Is operating the vehicle with D2 normal or will it harm the transmission on the long run? If I'm stuck on a slope, I still have to use D2 to start moving. I've advised the owner to continue letting the car sit until this is fixed. We drove 5 miles to get to a friend's place though.

I read codes and got P0700, P1753 and P0763 out of it even though no check engine light was on. Googling 0763 seemed to suggest something was wrong with Solenoid C. I checked resistance and applied voltage and ground. The solenoid passed both tests. I then removed it out of the transmission and applied air pressure with mouth. It allowed air through, but not when energized. I did resistance test on solenoid B and the torque converter clutch pressure solenoids next. Then applied power and ground to them. They all passed all tests. I removed Solenoid C connector and attempted to drive the car, the car moved fine in 1 and 2, but slipped in D3 and D4. (so it was finally engaging - but slipping).

Please help me analyze the results

ShahroseKhan

Check engine came on with D4 blinking when I attempted driving with Solenoid C disconnected

MAD_MIKE

P0700. If there is a AT issue this code will be present, it is non specific.
P0763. Shift solenoid Valve C
P1753. Torque Converter clutch solenoid valve

Use the diagnostics provided in the FSM to verify where the problem may lie.

If you turn the car to ON or drive with a component that is monitored by the PCM disconnected it will set a code for that component.
Drive around with valve C disconnected it will set P0763.

Reconnect everything, clear the codes and drive the car to reactivate the codes that are actual. Not the ones you create by disconnecting components with the car ON/Running to force a code, this will cause confusion as you will be chasing down a non existent problem.

As long as you are not loading the engine/transmission for excessive periods of time. Excessive loading will cause heat in the transmission from the torque converter sheering fluid. Driving in D2 is not ideal but it can be done. Just don't load the car up with people/freight and go hill climbing on roads with stop signs.

Do not drive the car with a shift solenoid purposefully disconnected.
They are called shift solenoids 'A, B, C' not '1, 2, 3'. When shifting or in other gears C solenoid may be ON or OFF to correctly apply the correct pressure to a given clutch. Look at page 14-31 in your FSM.

ShahroseKhan

I was referring to D1 and D2 as '1' and '2' (sorry, I did that because they're labeled as such in the car)

I only drove with Solenoid C disconnected because it passed all tests so I thought the problem could be corrosion somewhere else in the circuit. I tried to verify that by disconnecting it (creating an open) and then driving the car. I did feel the result was interesting because D1 started to work. I did clear the codes afterwards.

I'm googling the codes and now reading the FSM 14-31. Tomorrow I'll be able to access ALLDATA again, so I'll see if I can find any thing in common on an electrical diagram between the clutch solenoid valve and the valve C

I'll post updates here, thank you

MAD_MIKE

All codes, wiring schematics and troubleshooting are in the FSM.
There are several websites that have incorrect information in regards to diagnostics. Section 14 is going to be your friend while diagnosing this problem.

If you have not DL'd the FSM do so. It is much easier to use as a PDF file rather than online.

ShahroseKhan

Hello again.

So I couldn't get enough time to finish my diagnosis of the transmission. I ended up buying a cheap $400 imported Japanese transmission and putting that in (with a different professor who was willing to help do that).

I had to reuse two solenoids and a sensor that the seller marked out for me. The D4 comes on for 2-3 seconds whenever I turn the key to on position but then it goes away. Other than that, car is functioning very well.

I just don't know what to do with the old transmission. I thought I could open it up and sell parts but I doubt that'll be very successful. I'm hoping a scrap metal recycling plant would accept it?

ShahroseKhan

how can I get all the fluid out of the transmission so that it can be sold as scrap metal?

xci_ed6

you're at a car school? So take it apart, you get the same for scrap based on what it weighs, not how many pieces there are. Find out how it works, if you have ever worked on another (different company manufacturer) you will find this -COMPLETELY- different.

ShahroseKhan

that's what I'm DYING to do, however I've no support. I'm not enrolled in Automatic Transmissions class this semester, so no professor, nor any friend is willing to get their hands dirty or lend their desk to me.

If I had the choice between trashing this transmission or trying to fix it, I'd most definitely fix it and maybe even give it away for free just to see if I fixed it right!

However I need to figure out how to get the hazardous fluid out safely asap because someone is not happy with where I've placed the transmission for now

MAD_MIKE

Pull the drain plug while it is over a pan, select a different gear after 30mins and let it drain out. It won't get every ounce of fluid out but it should aid in draining down most of it down.
There will be 2-3 quarts in the TC, you can drain most of it out but you will probably not get a quart out due to the torus shape of the TC.
Loop the cooler lines and plug the differential outputs to prevent dirt intruding and oil leaking. Wrap the transmission in a HD garbage bag or if you can score an engine bag that would be better.

xci_ed6

Lol, not in the class now...

...I waited for classes to excel, to be the best, because I had already done it before. I was even a teacher there (substitute, they called -ME- to fill in) less than a year after I graduated.

ShahroseKhan

so I should carry the transmission in my trunk until next semester in August, is that what you're saying?

I think you missed the part about me not having a place to store or work on it

masospaghetti

You might see if a local transmission shop would buy it for spare parts - or, give it to them if you want a bit of goodwill. They may or may not want it. I gave my local shop an old manual accord transmission that I had no place for.

Regarding the D4 light, I think that's normal. It shows you what gear the car was driven in last time it was run. The 93 I used to have did the same thing.

MAD_MIKE

When the ignition if first turned to II(ON) all the warning lights will all initially come on, fuel pump will prime and the D4 light will come on for a moment. When the pump stops priming the main relay drops out the fuel pump and the D4 lamp goes off. Part of the self check the ECM does.
If the D4 does not light when the ignition is turned to II(ON) then there most likely is a problem.

edward ayala

Hello all,

was there any resolution on this thrad? i am having the exact same issue on my Accord 99'.

MAD_MIKE

Check for any codes via the OBDII port.
If there are any engine related codes, fix those first before fixing transmission codes.
Only the code, not the generic description so either a P07## or P17## number/numbers for transmission related issues.
Engine running condition will also affect transmission functionality, if hte engine is in limp mode then it to will put the trans into limp mode.

Chris.simmons97

hey man question i got a 2001 honda accord v6 got the same probkem slipped slightly in 1st and second switched out the solinoid now works in 1st and second but wont work in 3rd and 4th put the old part back on same thing im actually wondering can you direct me to the website you got your transmission from that cheap!!!?? Im in desperate need this is my daily driver!!!