2point6

I posted this in the prelude section also, so sorry for the duplication.
This upgrade can be done several ways. It is not a difficult Install, but there is a lot more to make it work than just bolting it on. The steps I took here are just for suggestion and can be modified to fit different cars. Look closely at all of the pictures to get a better understanding of what was done. The pictures are not step by step, but are here just for reference. The following steps are what I took to make the manifold work on my 90 Accord Hybrid. Please note that I also use a Hondata intake manifold gasket, so some of the coolant lines to the IAC are deleted. I also HIGHLY recomend porting out the manifold to match the stock gasket. This will open the area up around the fuel injectors cosiderably. (not pictured)

First, I bolted the Euro manifold flange to flange with the stock manifold. I then used a scribe to mark the area I intended to remove (arches). I carefully ground out the area to match the stock manifold. This took more time to do, but if you place the manifold on the head you can notch out smaller sections which will make istallation faster.


I also ground down the top of the flange to clear the oil passage on the head. Note the small holes above the port. These I drilled, tapped and locktited some set screws in place to plug them.


I then moved the vacuum port for the brake booster from the top to the rear of the IM. I tapped and plugged the old location.



I also plugged the port on the front of the IM.


In the following pictures, it shows that I reused the stock IAC. This was a little tricky to do and my pictures are somewhat vague, but if you look closely in some of the other pictures you can see where I used a thin piece of aluminum to "adapt" the IAC valve. For this I placed the aluminum plate on the manifold and from the inside I used an angle scribe to make the 2 ports. I then mached up my marks with the IAC and drilled 2 respective holes. placement for this can be tricky but a little experimentation will prove positive results. after making sure that the ports line up, I used Hondabond between the plate and the manifold to insure a good seal then I secured the IAC with 2 (10mm bolt head) bolts. The lower one I had to drill and tap into the IM. This was fairly easy. I also had to lengthen the wires for the IAC as well.






Here are some pictures of how I mounted the Fuel rail. Again these are just suggestions.
The rail I used was a stock 90 accord rail that was slightly modified. as well. The bracket for the fuel rail was made out of metric all thread, Aluminum tubing (used as a spacer) and 12mm square bar stock. On the bar stock, I drilled and tapped holes that lined up with the 2 outer bolt holes on the fuel rail. For the aluminum spacers, I placed the fuel injectors in place with the fuel rail. I had holes drilled in the bar stock whick allowed for some movement to get the right placement. I placed 12mm nuts (seen in the pictues) to secure the all thread, then I measured measured between the nut and the bar stock to get the right length for the aluminum spacers.




This is what the IM looks like with the fuel rail set in place. I chose not to use the AEM rail, because I use different fuel injectors.


The Pictures of the manifold on the car will be posted soon. The Intake air temp sensor will have to be from a late model CRV or Accord (1999+)
In my opinion, the manifold was a nice improvement over the stock set up in responsiveness and feel (butt dyno). It looks a lot cleaner as well, but the true test will be on the dyno to see if it was all worth while.

RotaryBzzz

Nioooce mang!

4doorH22

You are the F-ing man!

Brandon

ForcedAccord

Aye papi.

How long has this been in the works, I must have missed a post talking about you going to do this, unless it's been top secret

2point6

Thanks guys! I actually did this a few months ago, but Have been unable to finish posting it. I should have some Dyno results on thursday.

Nick M

Along with the SMSP header?

Just out of curiosity, why did you you chose to use an ATR IM instead of using an aftermarket box style manifold ex: Venom

SOHCArchangel

box style has poor surface flow properties

the large ports and plenum a regular street driven n/a car would not rev up high enough to take advantage(if any) of this, plus those box style manifolds have turboed cars in mind in design where large volume plenums are necessary in the upper rpm and high boost ranges where a normal (stock) manifold would be a restriction

but either way i wouldnt use a box style manifold, thats just imo

Nick M

True Dat

But I wonder what the powerband would look like with both applications on his motor...

ITBs as well.

JDM_CD7

iTrader: (1)

Damn Scott....... how much of a difference is that gonna make to the engine you already have.
Mad Props on the Fuel Rail stand(too bad most of us can't get our hands on a machine shop)
Still....... nice setup

Nick H

did the ATR manifold get you down in the the 12's yet? or are you still searching....nice job though...

2point6

Actually, I did all the stuff (modifications) at home right there on the washing machine in the pictures. LOL.

2point6

No, I haven't hit 12's yet, but my speed through the traps went up 2 MPH. That is pretty significant. I also Changed out my ECU to a stock Prelude (that once again is untunned) Tommorrows trip to the dyno Should see if there are any differences. I believe to see at least 10WHP more than what I had before. Oh yeah, the week before last I was at the track and during my runs I was shifting the car at 8600RPM. This took me through the traps way into 3rd gear. I had some issues shifting the tranny into 2nd forcing me to shift really slow at that point. I ran a couple of 13.4's. The next weekend, I tried short shifting the car at 7500 RPM. No changes were made, I still have issues with 2nd gear as it doesn't like to go in still, but even with shifting the car an extra time before hitting the traps, I still managed a couple of 13.4's. I only got 3 passes that night. I did notice that I was going through the traps at a much lower RPM than desired, so now I got to play with gearing. I think that a smaller set of slicks may make the difference. Shoud see soon.

Jason kiDD

Nice install, but is the cost plus time put in to do the modification worth the gains?? I guess we shall see once you can get her on the dyno and give raw numbers.. Nice post though.

4doorH22

The gains should all be in the top end, maybe with even a midrange loss?
But the area under the curve power gains on the top end damn well better be worth it.

Jason kiDD

If it nets even 10whp then most would probably say its worth it. But if it exceeds like say $700 for parts and adjustments then maybe its not..

Only dyno numbers will tell.

2point6

Back when R&D built my first 2 engines (before the blew) is when I heard of this upgrade. They had dynoed a couple of their street engines with this manifold. They were netting 6-8 whp across the board. It is a little more "peaky" but this shouldn't be an issue in my case.

Gangsta Accord

hey just wondering what throttle cable were you using and wat throttle cable bracket to? btw NICE pixs

Gangsta Accord

just wondering what throttle cable were you using and what bracket also were used. BTW NICE PIKS

2point6

I used the bracket for this manifold and the stock Accord cable.

CD8

you can usually find a Euro-R IM from either jdmhondaparts.com of hondamotorsonline.com for about $400. dont know how much all the lil extra parts are, but they shouldnt be that much.