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I know a bad TPS can cause hesitation and won't let you go pass a certain RPM, but you said you don't have a CEL though. So TPS is out of the list.
I'm thinking of a clogged cat, but you won't be able to pick up much power on the topend if you floor it. It'll feel like it doesn't even want to climb up at all.
Re: Acceleration Bog/Sputter/Hesitation IN GEAR ONLY
Yeah no CEL yet.....Not sure about the cat but it definitley could be a possibility. When I floor it It runs perfect like it should!!!!
I replaced the fuel filter yesterday with no change or help.
I also noticed when at a light I put it into neutral and rev it and it's fine doesnt do it, no sputteting feeling at all, but when I'm in gear then give it gas and go there is slight bogging and/or hesitation.
Going to possibly replace CV Joints and also Oxygen Sensor to see if it remedies this problem.
EGR ports could possibly be blocked up, my car did this when I first bought it.
Didn't throw a CEL for a little while, but really got bad and the CEL came up.
My 1999 Accord had a similar problem (F18B2 engine). Idle speed was ok but as soon as I hit the throttle the engine would hesitate and sometimes stall. It only lasted a second or so before it would actually rev up.
Tried cleaning TB, IACV, did a valve adjustment etc...
The problem was finally solved when I decided to reset the ECU: disconnected the battery for a minute and then let the engine idle with no load (no A/C, ventilation etc..) until it's warmed up. Took only 15 minutes.
Idea was to let the ECU re-learn the properties of the air intake system...
I'm pretty sure that a torn CV boot itself would not cause this problem. The CV boot holds axle grease, so if anything you will start hearing a "clack-clack-clack" noise when turning hard (such as parking or making a U-turn).
Yeah I agree I do not think it is the CV joint. (Medicine)
I Have tried to reset ECU but there is no codes and also didn't help my symptoms but thanks for the idea(Dannyho)
I was thinking about the EGR passages I will check into that next!!!! (GlassJaw)
For Now, I just changed the Distributor and nothing has changed.
Would an Exhaust Leak or bad Oxygen Sensor cause this symptom?
Can an oxygen sensor go bad without throwing a CEL?
Would an exhaust leak throw a CEL?
I also noticed my car does sound different with a "ringing" kind of sound coming from underneath possibly an exhaust leak?
Not sure what is going on but I am going to continue to drive the car for now.
It runs...... but makes me so mad because something is not letting it run right so I'm going by the process of elimination route. I've had 3 CB7's and I consider myself fairly knowledgeable of the car and symptoms of problems, but obviously not this time, this has never happened on any of my other CB7's.
I really appreciate any and all advice guys! Thanks
I used to have an annoying "ringing" sound in the exhaust system of my DC2 Integra..... turns out the internals of one of the sausage shaped mufflers had broken away and was rattling / ringing on the side of the muffler.
We had a 2003 civic that showed these symptoms and the CAT converter was CLOGGED shut!
( A dead give away, to diagnose this is if the car stalls on you or, [less likely] if the exhaust is rusted enough it will blow through in front of the clog )
After we replaced it (@ a cost of $700.00+ the manifold and cat are one piece on the 03) the car ran fine.
o2 sensors WILL throw a CEL. EGR malfunctions can throw CEL's if it's affecting blow-by flow and causing build up on the moving parts/sensors. There are some over the counter remedies for this I have never used any so I cannot speak as to their effectiveness or quality. however a quick web search will pull up some reputable names in the fuel/oil additive industry.
As far as cv joints go it's been a crap shoot between advance and auto zone as I've wound up with mismatched and remanufactured parts at both retailers.
The day you decide to do the job make sure you have a ride back to the store if it's not right. there's nothing worse than starting the car after the new parts are in and putting it in drive and spinning the inner cv joint in the tranny. A good way to test if the install of a cv joint/half shaft went well is to reassemble everything and spin the whell by hand while the tire is off the ground (IT SHOULD GO WITHOUT SAYING BUT DO THIS CAREFULLY) turn the wheel by hand both directions if you can't spin it all the way around then you're clicked into the trans and the parking pin is holding - thus a good repair.
Yes, the o2 sensor can cause those symptoms. In theory, a bad o2 should place a code in the computer, but that isn't always true. If the o2 sensor deteriorates slowly enough, the system never notices that it is out of spec. That's what happened to mine. I drove around bogging for weeks while checking nearly everything under the hood, before finally zeroing in on the o2 sensor and solving the problem.
sorry for reviving a 4-5 year old thread. I just ran into the exact same issue after putting a F23A engine in a 1997 accord ex. the original engine was oil starved and blew a hole in the block.
anyway, the swap went fine with zero issues, but the car bogged intermittently at low speeds and would idle a little roughly when not moving in drive. in park the engine revs and runs great. the kicker is no CELs what so ever.
after reading this thread I said what the hell and disconnected the O2 sensor, now she runs like a banshee with no bogging whatsoever. I'm putting a new denso o2 sensor in tonight and will call it a success.
I'm having a similar issue on my 99 Accord EX 2.3. It's fairly intermittent but only happens at low RPM and under acceleration. If yours is anything like mine, you can (and do) manipulate the throttle a bit to clear the stuttering/hesitation.
Here's the rub: The ECM will not detect a misfire unless it happens for at least a 5 second duration. Once it does detect the misfire, it will throw a P03XX DTC specific to which cylinder it detected the misfire on.
(P0301 = cylinder 1, P0302 = Cylinder 2, etc, etc)
When you get the sputtering, try and make it happen long enough for your CEL to come on and start blinking. (no more than 5 or 6 seconds as dumping raw fuel into the converter will ruin it given enough time) With the DTC you can identify the cylinder that's misfiring and narrow down the cause.
sorry for reviving a 4-5 year old thread. I just ran into the exact same issue after putting a F23A engine in a 1997 accord ex. the original engine was oil starved and blew a hole in the block.
anyway, the swap went fine with zero issues, but the car bogged intermittently at low speeds and would idle a little roughly when not moving in drive. in park the engine revs and runs great. the kicker is no CELs what so ever.
after reading this thread I said what the hell and disconnected the O2 sensor, now she runs like a banshee with no bogging whatsoever. I'm putting a new denso o2 sensor in tonight and will call it a success.
Yo! sorry to bring back from the dead but, Having the same issue with my obd1 DC2. Been running around now with O2 unplugged for that reason. Runs fine with o2 unplugged, but the minute I plug it back in it boggs and my wideband uego goes crazy telling me Im running lean. Replaced o2 like 3 times thinking part was bad, swapped my motor and ecu, still same thing. (I didn't swap my motor for this issue). If someone could post a fix that would be awesome since there are a few people on here that have the issue. oh and by the way im running straight pipe so no cat, not clogged. This only happens when o2 is plugged in, and ive gone through all the wiring and cant figure this stupid thing out, Im tired of having the CEL on and not a fan of getting ecu chipped to get rid of it.
I'm having similar problems. I have a 98 Integra LSVtec. B18B1 block with PR3 head. Was running an OBD1 P28 chipped ECU. Ran spectacular with the exception of the exhaust (had a small leak). Emissions would not pass me because of OBD1 ECU (their scanners are OBD2 only) and my year car is OBD2 specific (according to them). Bought a USDM OBD2 ITR ECU (P73). Had it installed by a Acura mechanic. O2 sensors were installed (primary read faulty with CEL code, so was replaced). Knock sensor installed. Had bogging issue when primary O2 threw a code. Thought replacing would fix the bogging issue, but did not. It cleared up for like a day, but quickly returned and this time, no CEL, no codes. The bogging isn't as bad now, but still noticeable. Idle is kinda funny too at times. It will idle around 800 RPM's then will suddenly increase to about 1100 RPM's at a stop. Was thinking of trying to reset the ECU. Any other insight, would be really appreciated! I'm only keeping the ITR ECU plugged in to get passed emissions. Was planning on plugging in the OBD1 ECU back in once emissions was passed.
haven't had the issue and I rewired the o2. and repinned the ecu connector to make sure good contact for the o2 signal wire. since then I haven't had the problem. And im running gsr now.
Hello, i use to have this same simptoms, i change o2 sensor, spark plugs and wires, distributor rotor, cap and ignitiion coil, fuel filter, fuel pump, ECU, main relay, TPS, clean throttle body, EGR ports, nothing fix the problem, not even in a the services have any idea of how to fix the problem.
So i get tired of trusting other people to fix my car, i took my time to se the proble my self, im the kind of "do it my self guy", i saw that black smock coming out from exhaust, after my research i lear this i caused by rich condition, the engine wasnt reciving enought air, so i start looking for vacum leaks, and i found that in the intake control selenoid valve wasnt working good, what i did was block the air hose to that goes to the bad valve, and after that my car runs great, never been better (obviously after in change all this parts for the really bad mechanics diagnosis).
this is the air hose diagram, and where in my case was the problem, valve in the circle was the problem, and the X mas is where i block that hose.
I hope this can help any one that have the same problem, or at least give one idea of the solution
Here's how I fixed this issue with my 1997 Honda Accord LX V-tec . So mine started sputtering when I would press the gas hard, if I eased the gas it wouldn't sputter. Then that progressed to sputtering while going up hill, very badly and in idle. First, I checked my air filter, was ok, Then, I reset the ECU, no change, except that now the check engine light was on. I ran the diagnostic check and codes came back as misfire on 2 and EGR valve. I replaced 4 spark plugs ($12), not even the wires and BAM, no more sputtering!
We just had bogging sputtering problem after our 2001 Honda Prelude H22 heated up. The problem turned out to be the 1st oxygen sensor in the exhaust stream. I've never seen an O2 sensor fail like this but whatever signal it was sending to the computer it caused the car to completely lose power randomly and started after about the first three minutes of driving. And what led us to consider an electrical sensor problem was that if you stopped the car, turned off the ignition, restarted, and drove away, it ran fine for about 2 minutes before it started doing this again.
Normally what I have found is that when oxygen sensors go bad they throw a computer error and the check engine light but they fail in such a way that the engine continues to run in a slightly less powerful mode not a near zero power mode.
My temporary solution to prove it was the sensor was to unplug it so that the computer would see a hard failure and run in default mode. That worked and the car ran nearly fine. Now it's off to the parts store tomorrow to buy a new O2 sensor.
03-25-2015, 11:37 AM
Acceleration Bog/Sputter/Hesitation
