94-97 DIY: Prothane front sway bar bushings and endlinks
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94-97 DIY: Prothane front sway bar bushings and endlinks
I bought prothane polyurethane bushings and endlinks for the front sway bar recently from tasauto.com for about $26. These were to remedy the squeaking I've been hearing from my front suspension.
First, I jacked up the front of the car, and took apart the sway bar endlinks by holding the top nut with a 12mm wrench and loosening the bolt with a 12mm socket at the bottom. Here's a picture of the endlinks with the stock bushings:
As you can see the stock bushings are extremely cracked and flexible. After the endlinks are removed, take off the two sway bar bushings by removing the two 12mm bolts securing the bracket to the car. Remove the bracket and the stock bushing in order to make removing the bar easier. You'll have to maneuver the bar around in order to get it to around the exhaust pipe to remove it.
Here is a comparison of the stock rubber bushings and the polyurethane bushings:
As you can see, the stock bushings are warped, cracked, and very flexible. I could squeeze them with hardly any effort, but I could barely even squeeze the Prothane bushings even when stepping on them.
Now lube up the inside of the Prothane sway bar bushings with the teflon grease supplied with the bushings. and put them in the same position as the stock bushings, and replace the stock brackets. It may be difficult to put the Prothane bushings on the bar, as the bushings are extremely stiff. I wedged a screwdriver inbetween the opening in the bushings to fit it on the bar:
Then maneuver the sway bar yet again around the exhaust and other suspension components to get it back into the place it was before. Now it is time to replace the endlinks. Push the bolt up from the bottom, and place the bushings so there is one touching either side of the 2 suspension pieces, with a washer on the outside of each bushing. Then tighten it all down.
Here's a picture of the Prothane endlink installed:
As you can see, the new bushings are much less flexible and soft than the stock rubber ones. After driving around for a while, I noticed the squeaking I had before the install was gone, and the suspension was stiffer due to the harder bushings.
In the end, it only cost me $26 and an hour of my time. I got the results I wanted, and the satisfaction of no longer having 10-year-old bushings that were cracked and spongy.
First, I jacked up the front of the car, and took apart the sway bar endlinks by holding the top nut with a 12mm wrench and loosening the bolt with a 12mm socket at the bottom. Here's a picture of the endlinks with the stock bushings:
As you can see the stock bushings are extremely cracked and flexible. After the endlinks are removed, take off the two sway bar bushings by removing the two 12mm bolts securing the bracket to the car. Remove the bracket and the stock bushing in order to make removing the bar easier. You'll have to maneuver the bar around in order to get it to around the exhaust pipe to remove it.
Here is a comparison of the stock rubber bushings and the polyurethane bushings:
As you can see, the stock bushings are warped, cracked, and very flexible. I could squeeze them with hardly any effort, but I could barely even squeeze the Prothane bushings even when stepping on them.
Now lube up the inside of the Prothane sway bar bushings with the teflon grease supplied with the bushings. and put them in the same position as the stock bushings, and replace the stock brackets. It may be difficult to put the Prothane bushings on the bar, as the bushings are extremely stiff. I wedged a screwdriver inbetween the opening in the bushings to fit it on the bar:
Then maneuver the sway bar yet again around the exhaust and other suspension components to get it back into the place it was before. Now it is time to replace the endlinks. Push the bolt up from the bottom, and place the bushings so there is one touching either side of the 2 suspension pieces, with a washer on the outside of each bushing. Then tighten it all down.
Here's a picture of the Prothane endlink installed:
As you can see, the new bushings are much less flexible and soft than the stock rubber ones. After driving around for a while, I noticed the squeaking I had before the install was gone, and the suspension was stiffer due to the harder bushings.
In the end, it only cost me $26 and an hour of my time. I got the results I wanted, and the satisfaction of no longer having 10-year-old bushings that were cracked and spongy.
#2
Re: 94-97 DIY: Prothane front sway bar bushings and endlinks (pyrojeff)
good info man, nice write up. i may do the whole bushing kit here pretty soon, i have 175k on my chassis so its due.
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Re: 94-97 DIY: Prothane front sway bar bushings and endlinks (pyrojeff)
Are the splits in the two original large front bushings made that way for slipping over the bar or are they split from wear and tear ?
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Re: 94-97 DIY: Prothane front sway bar bushings and endlinks (alotawatts)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by alotawatts »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Are the splits in the two original large front bushings made that way for slipping over the bar or are they split from wear and tear ?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Those are there from from the factory.
Those are there from from the factory.
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Re: 94-97 DIY: Prothane front sway bar bushings and endlinks (alotawatts)
Yeah, the splits are there on both the stock and Prothane bushings. The sway bar sort of flattens out at the end, so it would be impossible to squeeze them on at the ends.
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Re: (Icey112)
Yeah, its for the stock LX/DX front sway bar. It was worth the $26, tightened up the suspension a little and now I have the piece of mind that I dont have those weak 10 year old rubber bushings anymore.
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Re: (pyrojeff)
i have a 92 civic hatch it looks like the web site you got the bushings from just sell accord parts will they fit a hatch you think. or were can i find some.
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Re: (matix)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by matix »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">quick question i was wondering what size sway bar bushings are needed for a EX model accord.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The LX/DX front sway bar is 22mm and the EX front sway bar is 27mm.
The LX/DX front sway bar is 22mm and the EX front sway bar is 27mm.
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Re: (Icey112)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Icey112 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have a 92 civic hatch it looks like the web site you got the bushings from just sell accord parts will they fit a hatch you think. or were can i find some.</TD></TR></TABLE>
TASAuto does only sell Accord parts. They used to only sell 94-97 Accord parts but now they have expanded. This kit will not work on your EH hatch though. NopiOnline sells Nuespeed polyurethane endlinks for Civic hatch and OptionsAutoSalon sells Energy Suspension polyurethane endlinks. Just search around other online aftermarket parts suppliers to see what they sell and for what price. Maybe try running a Google search for more places, there are a lot out there.
TASAuto does only sell Accord parts. They used to only sell 94-97 Accord parts but now they have expanded. This kit will not work on your EH hatch though. NopiOnline sells Nuespeed polyurethane endlinks for Civic hatch and OptionsAutoSalon sells Energy Suspension polyurethane endlinks. Just search around other online aftermarket parts suppliers to see what they sell and for what price. Maybe try running a Google search for more places, there are a lot out there.
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Re: (matix)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by matix »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hmm i dont see one for the 27 mm bar all i see is a 25mm one.</TD></TR></TABLE>
hmm, I coulda swore the stock EX front was 27mm. Maybe the stock one is 25mm and the ST one is 27mm. I have the stock front sway bar from my totalled 95 EX sitting at my moms with the rest of the parts, I'll have to measure it and see.
hmm, I coulda swore the stock EX front was 27mm. Maybe the stock one is 25mm and the ST one is 27mm. I have the stock front sway bar from my totalled 95 EX sitting at my moms with the rest of the parts, I'll have to measure it and see.
#17
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Re: 94-97 DIY: Prothane front sway bar bushings and endlinks (pyrojeff)
in the picture are the stablilizer links tightened all the way or do you need to tighten them more cause i have it on mine and i didnt kno how much to tighten them
?????
?????
#18
Re: (matix)
if you look under http://www.energysuspension.com and look under the uni-sets you will find the one for the 27mm.
Performance Sway Bar Bushing Sets- Greaseable Type
Sway Bar Diameter "A"
Greaseable Set #9.5162
Greaseable Set #9.5169 ]
1 1/16" / 27mm
Performance Sway Bar Bushing Sets- Greaseable Type
Sway Bar Diameter "A"
Greaseable Set #9.5162
Greaseable Set #9.5169 ]
1 1/16" / 27mm
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Re: 94-97 DIY: Prothane front sway bar bushings and endlinks (95accordh22a)
Straight from the Helms manual. I circled the parts you need to know. Green is for endlinks, and red is for stabilizer bushings
#20
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Re: 94-97 DIY: Prothane front sway bar bushings and endlinks (95accordh22a)
in the picture are the stablilizer links tightened all the way or do you need to tighten them more cause i have it on mine and i didnt kno how much to tighten them
?????
?????
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Re: 94-97 DIY: Prothane front sway bar bushings and endlinks (95accordh22a)
The picture tells you how much torque to tighten the bolts at, if you have a torque wrench. If not, the numbers aren't very useful to you. I just tightened them down, but not as tight as possible.
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Re: 94-97 DIY: Prothane front sway bar bushings and endlinks (pyrojeff)
Sorry to revive an old thread, but does anybody know if I have to take off the wheels to remove the bar? Right now my car is on the ramps for an oil change.
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Re: 94-97 DIY: Prothane front sway bar bushings and endlinks (pyrojeff)
thx, I didn't take off the wheels and it worked fine. Hardest part was getting the bar around the cat. Quagmire rocks.