enoch723

So I been Rebuilding and fixing up my 200$ 89 accord lxi. So far I haven't had a problem.. and really I am only seeing what the community might think. Distributor always had a small leak so I pulled it and seen there was NO o ring at all. Lol.

While I had most the hoses and stuff out of the way, I used a degreaser(heavy duty foaming) on the block and what not to clean it up hoping it might help my mpg, if not it would look better.

Everything still works and what not without a problem, but after running for about 5 min or so smoke starts to come of the block and tranny and everything.

I think its just the degreaser running to the bottom with grease.

My question to the community is if they would agree with me, or if they think there is still oil leaking out (which I dont see any) and if they think I should just keep running it and it will burn off? or take it apart and clean it up better?

Any opinion really would help


P.S. I put this thead here because there really isnt anywhere for the 89s?

Arthas

Did you put an O ring on the distributor?
Check out www.3geez.com


The smoke is probably the water on the exhaust manifold. No big deal.

enoch723

Yeah. Brand new from manufacturer and put oil over it to help it seal. Started it today and found the problem. Not oil or degreaser, its anti freeze? its pouring out, so I think its just the bolt that holds the hose to the block is loose

Lost Again

Bolt that holds the hose.....humm. I think it is something else. Yes I'm quite familiar with the 3rd gens in every trim level (DX, LX and LXi). If I had to guess based upon the work you did, the heater hose under the dist...oil leaking on it made it soft and then a small hit or tug on it when changing the o-ring.......

enoch723

You were fairly right. The clamp that holds the hose to the radiator was tight but not tight enough, it would run down the hose and drip right onto the tranny or block or whatever it would hit and steam. Tightened it down and it fixed that problem. Now its having heat issues as well as still has a very very small oil leak. Im fairly sure the thermo is stuck open (no fans turn on ever, but stays about the same temp) I beleive the oil leak is either the o ring isnt quite a fit or not bolted in tight enough.

I kind of need help to find the thermostat right now too cause I am in the middle of a big move and dont know where my book is.

Lost Again

Pretty sure you found it by now,

On the 3rd gens the t-stat is where the upper hose connects to the engine.

This is different than the newer gens.

CRX Si69

This should be where it is located on your car. This pic's from an a20a1 but it should be the same on the a20a3 also.

enoch723

I should have been more descriptive. You were more right then what I said. The Bottom bolt of the Thermostat housing wasnt in so anitfreeze was pouring out. Some how I missed it putting everything back together. Ended up destroying the gasket. Replaced both the thermostat and gasket friday, which fixed the "steam"(Im an idiot, Lol) But now it gets hot real quick and the radiator fans wont turn on, even though they did before I touched anything.

Everything worked without before, I just had the small oil leak. Now that I "fixed" that , it seems like everything is going wrong one after another.

And I say "fixed" because, yes there was a small oil leak from the distributer, but not the only leak. The valve cover gasket is going bad too.

But I got the car for 200 dollars, so might as well try to fix it. Thank you again for any help too

I am not a mechanic by the way too.. I am learning all this stuff new.



My setup. Just behind the distributor was the thermostat housing which bolted into the block. Just forgot the bottom bolt. Fixed the "steam" but now it over heats and radiator fans dont turn on even though they used to. Already replaced thermostat and gasket

motojcf27

Sounds like you may have air trapped in the cooling system. Try "burping" it and see what happens. If that doesn't work, you may have bad temp sensors. Also, make sure all your electrical connectors are clean and dry and above all, plugged in.

CRX Si69

Yeah, sounds like you now have air in the system, and the thermostat isn't popping.

Pestilent

Check your thermostat as well.

enoch723

How would I burp the cooling system? Ive never heard of that.
I dont think its the sensors, because they worked just fine a few days ago and as soon as I put the o ring in the distributor it started to over heat

Lost Again

Back to the pic where the bleeder was circled. Turn the heat to max heat (this opens the heater control valve so the air in there can come out). Open the bleeder with the cap off, slowly add coolant until it comes out of the bleeder. Close it off, start car and let is run for a while.

CRX Si69

Basically you fill your radiator and over flow with a 50/50 mix, leave cap off and run your car.
http://www.ehow.com/how_7369_burp-cars-cooling.html

enoch723

I tried your way crx si and it didnt really do anything. No offense. But I tried Lost agains way and it give a little burp. I tried it a few more times to see if there was any more in there and nothing. Didnt seem to help heat wise, Engine still got hot within ten minutes of running, but I will be able to tell for sure on my way to work tomorrow. Thanks for the help guys

EDIT: I was looking around just to see, and It has a firly new water pump it looks like, but no belt on it. Could this cause it? I was told the water pump was only for air conditioning, but my buddy isnt the best with cars

enoch723

So it definitely helped. But after driving for about 45 minutes or so, it would get hot like before. tested my radiator fans.. and NEITHER work. Hooked them up to the battery, there 12v dc so i cant reverse the polarity or anything, Im sure of that. But regardless, neither one worked.

I was wondering if someone could give me a quick run down on how to replace them. I could figure it out but I really dont have time, and Im afraid of blowing the head gasket or cracking the head or something

enoch723

So it helped a ton. But after running for about 30-45 minutes it was getting so hot, heat was coming through the vents even with the switchs and everything off. Fans do work but dont turn on when the engine is getting hot. Only when I turn the heat on full blast on fresh, not recirculating.

Was wondering how to wire them in to turn on with the car. My first thought is through and inline fuse or something?

Lost Again

Well, which is it. One post sounds like the motors are bad. The next says you just want to "wire them directly"......

If both are bad. Easy to replace. Pull the cooling fan (right/pass) first. Pretty much pulls straight up once the four bolts and wire connectors are removed. Then pull the cond fan (left/drivers - three bolts and wires) slide it to the pass side and lift - the ac lines get in the way so it doesn't pull up until you get it to the pass side.

If you jump the wires on the switch, bottom of rad on the pass/right side, and turn the key on......do both fans run. If they do and you don't want to replace the switch, just leave the jumper in place.

CRX Si69

I can't believe your buddy told you that. How else is the engine going to circulate water and coolant though it to cool it off?

I also have the same issue with having all controls off and the fan still blowing heat / cold air into the car.

enoch723

Sorry I haven't updated in a long while but I been very busy. I fixed the heat issues and everything then fixed most of the vacuum leaks. All but one only cause Im not quite sure of where it goes too quite yet but I have a diagram and everything so im not worried.

My main consern right now is that idles very strange. Not erratic, But after I been driving for about 20 mins or so, and I come a stop, it idles VERY low which isnt a problem to me, but if I turn the wheel in either direction it dies. Other then that.. it idles fine. ONLY when I have the wheel turned so far to either side.

If I come to a stop with the wheel fairly straight its fine. If I come to a stop with the wheel turned too far to either side it dies before I even come to a stop.

ANY help is GREATLY appreciated

UPDATE: It dies no matter what, but the steering wheel pushes it over the top

Lost Again

Might give the TB a good cleaning. Then there is the IAC you can clean as well.

enoch723

finally took it to a mechanic.. Bad news is that there reaally isnt much I can do. It would die because oil was getting into the throttle body. Because of the former owner driving it with its oil leaks for so long, and sitting for so long, it destroyed the compression when I started fixing the oil leaks. Basically there was so much blow by, that oil was getting sucked up into the throttle body through the pcv and breather hose. Along with the compression getting behind the piston rings and pushing out the dip stick(which he showed me) its just choking out the system. He is going to try and put in a 2nd pcv for me. But he told me not to count on it.

And before anyone tells me he is wrong or doesnt know what he is talking about, I really dont care because he has his plaques from going to school and is just charging me for the second pcv.