b17itr

its time to do front brakes on my 97 accord cd7. have the 98 accord bearing but need to find out which 5 lug bearing do i use- tried search but rotor over hub links are not working. do i use accord 5 lug or cl 5 lug for this swap? thanks peep

sgraham01

for a 5 lug swap, you can just swap the entire knuckle with one from a first gen odyssey. it's rotor-over-hub and a bigger disc. Shares calipers with the accord wagon. the rear is another story.

Balwin

you said you have a 98 bearing.. its from a v6 right.....?



For the front, use 1995-1998 Odyssey knuckles or 1998-2002 Accord V6 knuckles.

I used Odyssey knuckles with new Odyssey bearings and I reused the hubs that they came with.



If you have an EX: You use the disk brake calipers that came with your car for the back.
If you have an LX/DX: You must convert the rear to disk brakes by swapping over the trailing arm and then use the same procedure as the EX from there.

For the rear you use the setup hub/bearing assemblies from a 1997-2001 Prelude.

For the rear rotors, I used the rotors from an RSX. Prelude rotors will not fit the bearings.

PM me if you have more questions. I dont get on HT that much.

sgraham01

the 97-01 rear prelude hub fits but the spindle is too short and you'll be running on mostly the inside part of the bearing. you need to get some used 98 accord rear disc knuckles and have the spindles pressed out and press them into your 96 rear disc knuckles with a 1/8" washer on the back side before it is presse in. this will make the spindle the right length for the prelude hub.

Bird333

Did you use the 1/8" washer on your conversion?

sgraham01

yes, the machine shop took 2 large washers and milled them to 1/8" and bored them to fit the spindle. worked perfectly. cost about $100 + the used 98 accord rear spindles. i got them really cheap on ebay.

91crxsi09

The 97+ prelude rotors don't fit because they are to short.. You can use the taller 98-02 accord v6, itr, or rxs rotors...I have 1st gen odyssey front knuckles and 90-97 accord rear spindles I can sell em 4lug or 5lug fully assem... If you have any questions or want to buy the knuckels or spindles pm me

Balwin

btw I didnt use the washer on the rear and I used the OEM nut.

sgraham01

you don't have to use a washer, but it minimizes the spindle length so that there is less of an issue with dust cap fitment.

91crxsi09

.. if you dont use a washer.. the spindle will be too long and ur spindle nut wont be able to contact the bearing surface because it contacts the spindle b4 it does the bearing...

Balwin

really?

because im pretty certain I didnt have that problem along with the other 20-30 people that have 5 lug accords..

sgraham01

i would definitely recommend using the washer, but i think i read that someone that didn't use a rear washer used the stock accord nut and outer washer, but had to machine a recess in the washer to allow it to contact the bearing first.

it's been a while, but from my parts list, i think i used the 98-02 accord v6 rear spindle nuts without a washer. if you don't use a 1/8" washer on the back of the knuckle, i think you will have a contact problem with the nut and spindle shaft.

Balwin

no washer and no problem here.

5sp_CE1

how would i do this on a accord wagon?

Balwin

Ugh thats an entirely different story. The Stub shaft is different which makes it a pain in the ***.

im sure you can find an instant answer on AWC

91crxsi09

balwin, did you use the stock accord washer or just the spindle nut???

nn for 5sp_CE1 you can just take the knuckle of an accord sedan or 2dr ex and press out the spindle and use the spindle of a 98-02 accord v6 spindle and press it on to the sedan or coupe knuckle and your set.. i have the rear knuckles if your interested pm me let me know AND i also have the front knucles that are 5 lug ill give u a very good price on em...

as for the washer.. its weird i had to place one there or else i had to counter bore the accord stock washer so it can contact the bearing... i just placed the 1/8 washer...

Balwin

I didnt use any washer.

I pulled off the old hub/bearing assembly from the stub shaft.

cut off the inner race that was stuck..

lubed her a little.

then I put on the 97-01 hub/bearing assembly.

I reused the accord nut, but not the washer that was on there.

tightened with an airgun, staked the nut, and put the dust cap back on.

slid on the rsx rotor and put the oem caliper back on. done.

91crxsi09

baldwin ur not on the right track u didnt do any spindle pressing so you didnt know what we were talking about the washer.. i wasnt talking about the stock washer..what it was was that when you press out the 94-97 spindle out and then you press the 98-02 accord v6 spindle in you have to put a 1/8 washer in the back so the spindle wont be so long for the prelude hub bearing or else youll have the contact with the nut and spindle..

Balwin

Ah okay. my bad dude.

Why would you want to do this unless you had a Wagon or a V6?

Are you guys really that determined about getting all of the nut on the stub shaft?

sgraham01

AGREED... if you don't replace the shaft with a 98 v6 rear shaft, your spindle will be too short and you will be running on the innner half of the prelude bearing, and you will also not be able to run the nut down all the way to safely stake it in place. the prelude bearings are spaced further apart so you NEED a longer shaft. the 98 v6 rear shaft is perfect for this, but it's 1/8" too long. the washer on the back of the knuckle takes care of this problem.

You also risk stripping the threads on the shaft since you are applying too much torque on just a few threads and not the entire nut thickness that you should be torquing against. i wouldn't feel safe driving it without the longer shaft. I left mine sitting for a few weeks until i found out about this solution. No one mentioned it, but it was obvious when I put it all together.

it is very unsafe if you don't do it.

Bird333

I have been running my 5-lug for probably a couple of years. I am using the prelude nut with the built-in washer. Can you explain the bolded part further? I don't like not being able to stake the nut but it has been fine so far.

sgraham01

since the inner and outer bearings inside the prelude hub are spaced further apart than the stock accord bearings, the outer bearing is only partially riding on the shaft. Most of the weight is supported by the inner half of the hub. this may last for a while, but definitely not as long as it should. since the threaded portion of the shaft is not far enough out, this also prevents you from safely running the nut all the way down to be able to stake it properly.

bottom line, if you don't use a longer shaft, it's unsafe and it's not right.

if you use the 98 rear v6 shaft, you can use its nut w/ no washer.

below is the 98 v6 rear stuff: you need only the shafts out of the knuckles, so you can buy a used set or 2 from the same side.

Bird333

Thanks for the reply. I wanted to use the longer shafts for the nut staking issue but I couldn't find any used v6 knuckles or anyone to send me just the shafts. Are you saying the nut only contacts the inner ring of the bearing? I am just trying to get a better picture of what you are saying here.

sgraham01

the nut is not the issue. the prelude hub is deeper than the accord hub. when you push the prelude hub onto the accord shaft, the outer bearing in the hub is not completely on the shaft. the shaft is too short and doesn't protrude far enough out to let the entire hub ride on the shaft. this puts too much stress on the inner part of the hub, (inner bearing).

look at the pic in the link below. it shows a .100" washer in the back. i used .125". best pics i can find you.

http://www.accordinglydone.com/forum...lug+conversion

sgraham01

Go thru the above thread link and you can see more pics of the bearings and stuff.