2000 accord 2.3 ulev engine cleanout help
06-23-2013, 09:40 PM
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2000 accord 2.3 ulev engine cleanout help
Hello there! I need some help with my girlfriends 2000 honda accord. Its 2 door, 2.3 4 cylinder. And it is the ULEV, made to california standard, with the F23A4 engine. Following paragraph is what I did so far, 2nd paragraph is what I need help with for those who don't want to read it all
The CEL and SRS lights have been on since she's purchased the car years ago. She's taken it to numerous mechanics for all kinds of stuff. Most recent was a tranny rebuild. I could hear it running rough, and there was a lot of codes. I'm been lurking on here and reading a lot which has helped me greatly. Used the paperclip trick to reset the SRS light. I had first seafoamed the car, half bottle into engine crankcase, half sucked into the brake booster cable. A LOT of smoke came out, and I gunned it down the street a good 15 times before it stopped really smoking. Changed oil right after. The plugs were all working, but there were multipule missfire codes and others which I was able to determine was the EGR valve that needed cleaning thanks to info on here. Changed down stream O2 sensor with a new denso. New plugs and wires. Plugs, were ashy white, which seems to indicated running lean and hot. Only codes now are P1166 and P1167.
I checked all fuses, every fuse is good. So I assume the pre-cat O2 sensor needs replacing as well, she just changed that less than 5 years ago. I know I need the wide-band for the ULEV engine.
What I need help with is the next project, which is really cleaning the engine out. She told me its running msoother than it has in years. I asked and she did say its been getting worse mpg than it used too. When I took the egr valve out, it was terribly gunked. I scraped it with a flat head screw driver, sprayed it with carb cleaner, and vaccumed it dry. Did the same thing for the two ports on the engine block. I know this engine is really gunked up. I'm going to sea foam it again for her before the next oil change. The EGR valve did not have a gasket. I read one can be purchased at an autoparts store, should I get one? The two surfaces where the valve met to the engine were both a little rough.
To really clean the engine, what do I need to do? How far do I need to take the engine apart? I'm assuming taking exhuast manifold off, and valve cover. What else?
And most importantly, diagram of that. If I have a picture or chart, I feel confidant in doing it.
Secondly, the interior overhead lights are both out. What lightbulbs go to it? And does it just slide or twist off to access them? Thanks for reading!
The CEL and SRS lights have been on since she's purchased the car years ago. She's taken it to numerous mechanics for all kinds of stuff. Most recent was a tranny rebuild. I could hear it running rough, and there was a lot of codes. I'm been lurking on here and reading a lot which has helped me greatly. Used the paperclip trick to reset the SRS light. I had first seafoamed the car, half bottle into engine crankcase, half sucked into the brake booster cable. A LOT of smoke came out, and I gunned it down the street a good 15 times before it stopped really smoking. Changed oil right after. The plugs were all working, but there were multipule missfire codes and others which I was able to determine was the EGR valve that needed cleaning thanks to info on here. Changed down stream O2 sensor with a new denso. New plugs and wires. Plugs, were ashy white, which seems to indicated running lean and hot. Only codes now are P1166 and P1167.
I checked all fuses, every fuse is good. So I assume the pre-cat O2 sensor needs replacing as well, she just changed that less than 5 years ago. I know I need the wide-band for the ULEV engine.
What I need help with is the next project, which is really cleaning the engine out. She told me its running msoother than it has in years. I asked and she did say its been getting worse mpg than it used too. When I took the egr valve out, it was terribly gunked. I scraped it with a flat head screw driver, sprayed it with carb cleaner, and vaccumed it dry. Did the same thing for the two ports on the engine block. I know this engine is really gunked up. I'm going to sea foam it again for her before the next oil change. The EGR valve did not have a gasket. I read one can be purchased at an autoparts store, should I get one? The two surfaces where the valve met to the engine were both a little rough.
To really clean the engine, what do I need to do? How far do I need to take the engine apart? I'm assuming taking exhuast manifold off, and valve cover. What else?
And most importantly, diagram of that. If I have a picture or chart, I feel confidant in doing it.
Secondly, the interior overhead lights are both out. What lightbulbs go to it? And does it just slide or twist off to access them? Thanks for reading!
Last edited by PaulPool89; 06-23-2013 at 11:13 PM.
06-23-2013, 10:48 PM
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06-23-2013, 11:54 PM
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Re: 2000 accord 2.3 ulev engine cleanout help
...there were multipule missfire codes and others which I was able to determine was the EGR valve that needed cleaning thanks to info on here... Plugs, were ashy white, which seems to indicated running lean and hot. Only codes now are P1166 and P1167...she did say its been getting worse mpg than it used too...
If the EGR was gunky, not carbon fouled, I would suspect there is an issue with either a valve stem seal or possibly a cylinder/cylinder rings.
The two codes are in reference to the primary O2 sensor, it is either unplugged, has damaged wiring, or the sensor is in need of replacement.
The primary O2 is what tell the PCM what the engine is doing. The secondary unit is merely designed to monitor catalyst efficiency.
Currently the car is in limp mode, with OBD II the primary concern is no damage done to the catalyst. So timing and fuel tables will be at a safe limp mode, but will not be the best for fuel efficiency nor power.
Use a quality oil that has detergents. Do not use Penzoil, Quaker or unknown generics. They tend not to have detergents but do contain parrafins that are susceptible to breaking down, leaving waxy residue. That gunk you see. Use Mobil1, Valvoline have detergents, add some SeaFoam to the oil as well. Quality filter, Mobil 1 and K&N are some of the best. Fram is crap. Change the oil when it gets dirty.
At the next oil change, get the engine nice and warm, turn it off and drain the oil. Replace the oil with ATF(doesnt really matter which cheap is OK here) and let the engine idle for 15mins. Keep an eye on oil pressure just in case. Drain teh ATF(this is called an engine flush) and note how black the fluid has turned. Pull the filter and continue on as a normal oil change.
This will remove a considerable amount of junk from the engine.
The EGR valve did not have a gasket. I read one can be purchased at an autoparts store, should I get one? The two surfaces where the valve met to the engine were both a little rough.
And most importantly, diagram of that. If I have a picture or chart, I feel confidant in doing it.
And most importantly, diagram of that. If I have a picture or chart, I feel confidant in doing it.
Center 34253-SV1-A01 BULB (12V 8W) (STANLEY)5.57
Rear 34261-S84-A00 BULB (T10 3CP) (12V 5W) 4.37
The lenses should pop off, you may have to unscrew the bezel from the roof to gain access to a plug if the lamp is screwed in from the back.
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