deserthonda

i also think it is a 10mm socket 12 points...

ramoneguru

Almost, 12mm 12 point (I didn't check if the 10mm fit though, so you might be correct). Craftsman has them for about $12.....I probably should have just purchased the package and saved a few dollars....

JDM MonopolyMan

Good article!! It helps alot when I was just about to turn my own rotors although I had no idea where to start due to them being pressed on. thanks!

pumafeet10

are there any other tools you need to buy when u get the puller, it says you needsomething elese but i think its just a slide hammer im guessing thats not needed?

gianinline

very nice of you taking your time to take pics and post all the info and stuff....
Very Good!!!

accordisslow

my question is ...on step 11-13 is the spindel nut suppose to stay on while useing the hub puller? because i tried that and ...i kinda effd up the threads on my hub puller ( actually a rental)....i mean i took all 4 bolts on the back side of it and i thought it would jus simple come off.....

what i am tryin to do..is apply new wheel bearings and new rotors...but i cant seem to get the damn rotors off..

TouringAccord

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by accordisslow &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my question is ...on step 11-13 is the spindel nut suppose to stay on while useing the hub puller?</TD></TR></TABLE>

You can have it on there to protect the threads of the axle but don't have it tightened or snugged down or anything. The nut tightens down onto the hub, if the nut is toughing the hub while you're doing this, then you're just doing nothing. Maybe try taking the nut off or just make sure it isn't touching the hub face (where it tightens down to) while you're doing this.

accordisslow

i did that.....what i first did was put the hub puller on there and tightned it down with out the spindel nut and all it did was back the axle out Lol so then i partially threaded down the spindel nut maybe like 2 spins but it still wont pull out (the rotors!) i even tried givin the rotors a few smacks wit the hammer so the rust can losen up a little bit and still no luck .....is it suppose to b dificult to tighten down the hub puller? cuz honestly....i even tried standin on the ratchet and still no lucck lol

is there any other tool i can use to see if it will come off? like a slide hammer or something of the sort?

TouringAccord

well, I personally don't know how that hub puller works since it's pushing on the axle which is just going to push out before the bearing comes free but some people say it works so... On my Accord, I had the bearing unbolted and then I hooked a slide hammer to the hub and I ended up pulling the hub out of the bearing, thats how rusted my bearing was into the knuckle. I had to take the knuckle to a shop and they had to use a press to free the bearing from the knuckle.

As long as you have the bearing unbolted from behind the knuckle, try hitting it with a hammer, if that doesn't work you can try the slide hammer. Just be careful to not pull the hub out of the bearing cause if you do the bearing should then be replaced.

I don't know what else to tell you. If your in a state that see snowy weather (road salts and such) it could just be really rusted in there.

jmk64

I live in Michigan too, and my hub was froze into the knuckle. I used a hub puller and managed to seperate the hub from the bearing (really pissed me off). After working on it for 2 days I got the passenger side back together (LOL). I took the car in and had the drivers side done.

When I seperated the bearing from the hub it came apart nice and easy and I didn't break the race or tear the seal so I just cleaned it up put a little grease on the shaft and bearing and gently inserted it back into bearing. I used the Hub nut to press it back together. Seems to be okay, my mechanic said that I got lucky.

He used a slide hammer to remove the other side.

TouringAccord

yeah, my hubs came out of the bearing without any noticable damage to the bearing. But they recommend that if you seperate it and expose the inside of the bearing, you should replace it. I didn't want to have to go back in and fix it in a few months so I just bought new bearing so I didn't have to worry about it. I've heard of others just pulling the hub with a slide hammer and then reinserting the hub into the bearing but I didn't feel like taking the chance, my luck something would have gone wrong and I would have had to take it all back apart.

technine

Very good write up. Very clear and to the point.

spooky187

I have two questions, the first one is more important!
I have an acura 2.2cl 97'. The setup for this exactly the same, but i am having trouble getting the spindle nut off. Do you go counter clockwise or clockwise? from the Tutorial i would assume its clockwise, but i wanted to make sure, cause im still having trouble. ( from the tutorial it says take off spindle "bolt" in step 6, and then in step 7 it says take off spindle "Nut" , so does that mean take out the grey middle bolt out of the middle before using the big torque bar on the spindle "nut")

Also if its possible, do you guys know anything about the conversion of using the newer hubs on a 98-99 2.3cl acura, so you don't have the hub over rotor?
I have two 2.3cl acura 98' hub assembly, but i don't see how it makes anything easier. Thanks in advanced!

BigMoose

I know it's an old but good thread. Have to do this on my 96 Accord. Here is a Wagner brake tutorial on the air chisel method of getting the bearing housing out of the knuckle.

http://www.federal-mogul.com/f...nt%22

I am also not understanding how the hub puller works. It has to be compressing the drive axle and putting the force into the transmission. I don't think I want to put a lot of axial load into the axle joints with a rusted bearing housing in the knuckle. If I am missing something, let me know.

Intense3.2

Very nice! An asset to HT.

jmk64

I found this the other day, and I thought it would be nice to add it to this thread.

http://www.try-intools.com/

It's kinda pricey, but it looks heavy duty.

thedarkone

I wish it were that easy for NY accords damn salt and rust! Nothing like a good blister inducing slide hammer session to brighten your day... good thing we had a lift and a good team of strong arms. lol

TouringAccord

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jmk64 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">http://www.try-intools.com/

It's kinda pricey, but it looks heavy duty.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I personally wouldn't buy that tool. Not because of the cost but because of what it does.

It removes the hub from bearing which it's then recommended that you replace the bearing. I know I know, many people have gotten away without doing so but there are some that have experienced problems. It's not recommend because if any dirt or anything gets inside the bearing your screwed, or if you don't get the hub back into the bearing all the way you'll have problems as well. Then a month later or somethng you'd be back in there to replace the bearing, which means you would need a press to get the race off of the hub and to have the new bearing and hub pressed together.

Not worth it in my mind. I would rather go through the extra steps to ensure not damaging the bearing.

Or you could take the money you would spend on that tool and put it towards a Rotor-over-Hub conversion. Which is my plan for when I get my next Accord.

nist7

what if I cannot take off the spindle nut? (driver's side)

I even used an electric imapct wrench (350ft-lbs) and the nut isn't even budging....

TouringAccord

it needs to come off or you can't do the job.

an electric impact? Are you sure it wasn't 350in-lb? I think all the electric impacts I've seen were in-lb but that doesn't mean yours isn't ft-lb, just want to make sure.

To get mine off, without air tools, I always leave the car on the ground (just remove the center cap to get access to the axle nut. I use a 1/2" drive rachet or breaker bar and a 5ft long steel pipe. Works great for me.

If that doesn't work, see if you can find someone with heavy duty air tools or someone with a 3/4" rachet/breaker bar and the correct size socket.

One time I had a problem with my driver side axle nut as well. I kept breaking 1/2" drive rachets and breaker bars. I was using the aluminum 2pc handle from my low profile jack, then I tried a steel pipe and the nut broke free on the first try no problem. Ever since then I always use a steel pipe and haven't had any problems. I assume the aluminum 2pc pipe flexed too much or something causing the problem, IDK... I just use a steel pipe now and no problems.

doctoroctopus

New to the site. I just want to change the pads and rotors, regrease the pins and get out of there. Can I get the rotor off the hub without removing the hub and all that. There's just that little lip keeping the rotor from coming off. Is this unique to Honda's ? Thanks, DO

ujhonda

ramoneguru:

Ohh my friend, I can't thank enough, Helms Manual inc. must hire you.

Nice job, indeed it is nice.

once I had to take my rotters off, but I failed - due to tools, finally local Midas did it - cost my arm and leg. but next time.

ujhonda

SPORT INJECTION

I could have used this write a day or two ago. ive been going nuts trying to figure out how to get these rotors off.... ahhhh so much easier on the civic.

lilman4o8

i'll be sure to save this thread

soon2bdropped

kinda confused.. ive seen people change rotors like its nothing. you guys make it seem like its a hassle.. i always thought u undo the 2 bolt on the caliper slam in new brake pads.. than undo the 4 bolts in the front of the hub.. hub slides off and rotor slides off and just leave the bearings in there with the wheel studs.. idunno i want to try it this summer but i don't know.. hub, bearing, all confuses me...