vtecmw

Hey everyone, I started on the rotor replacement tonight. Right now, I'm working on the driver side. The axle needs to be replaced on that side so I decided to start there first.

So far, I have the entire steering and knuckle assembly taken apart(going to need a new ball joint though!)

I have the four bolts (from Home Depot) installed.

I just have a few questions...

1. How far do I need to screw the bolts in? It seems that if I screw them in too far that the bolts will be set too deep to hammer. I'm also afraid of hitting what appears to be the ABS sensor.

2. Does loosening the hub bolts help that much? Mine are in pretty bad shape. I'm not sure if I'll be able to get them loose because of their condition.

Once again, any info is appreciated.

TouringAccord

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtecmw &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">1. How far do I need to screw the bolts in? It seems that if I screw them in too far that the bolts will be set too deep to hammer. I'm also afraid of hitting what appears to be the ABS sensor.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Not sure, never used that method before.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtecmw &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">2. Does loosening the hub bolts help that much? Mine are in pretty bad shape. I'm not sure if I'll be able to get them loose because of their condition. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Are you refering to the four bolts located on the face of the hub? If so, then yes, those need to be removed to remove the rotor from the hub.

vtecmw

After a lot of effort I managed to get one rotor off. The only problem is that one of the bolts that attaches the hub to the rotor is worn on the edges and I can't get it off. So, I can't put my new rotor on.

The parts person at my local auto store suggested I look around for a junk yard where I can find just a wheel hub.

Anyone have any suggestions as to where I can find one. Or, are there any creative ways anyone can think of to get that bolt off of the hub? I really don't want to buy an entirely new set of wheel bearings and hubs.

The same will apply to the opposite side too. Any information is appreciated.

TouringAccord

so you rounded the head on one of those four bolts holding the rotor to the hub?

When I went to do mine (like 3 or more years ago), a friend who isn't a friend anymore started using a 12pt for whatever reason. Rounded one of the bolt heads quick. Then switched to a 6pt and socket and we got the rest off but that one was still there. So once I got the hub off the car, I took it to work (I do design work at this machine shop) and one of the guys drilled it our real fast. Only took him like 5 min to set it up and drill it out. Look in the phone book or go to a few auto parts stores and ask them. There is a auto parts store down the street from my work and they send people our way all the time.

If you don't have the ability to take it to a machine shop, maybe try buying those stripped bolt removers (bolt-out) at Sears. I'm not talking about easy-outs either. Those will break fast, they are to small. You need the ones that bite onto the outside of the rounded head as you try loosening the bolt.

Don't know if you can see it in the picture but those are what I'm refering to. They have spirals on the inside that bite onto the head as you try loosening the bolt. Those might work.

I wouldn't buy another hub/bearing. You should be able to either try those bolt-outs or have it drilled out.

Good luck

vtecmw

Yeah, I rounded one of the flange bolts. I'll look into the options you suggested in order to get it off.

I'd appreciate if you could offer some advice. The wheel bearing didn't come out when I pulled the rotor. I imagine that it's probably seized up inside the knuckle pretty well. Should I look at having it pressed out and getting an entirely new set of wheel hub/bearings? Or, should I just get the bolt off the hub, throw the rotor back on and run with the current wheel bearing until it's time to get new ones?

Cost is a factor as I've dropped a lot of money into my car recently for various repairs. But, I'm willing to follow any necessary option.

Thanks.

TouringAccord

well, I assume you removed the four bolts on the back of the knuckle holding the bearing to the knuckle.

Try hammering on the back of the rotor since your replacing it anyway and see if that helps it pop out. If not, you could try getting longer bolts from a hardware store and put them in the four holes on the back of the knuckle and into the bearing. Then try hammering on those four bolts and see if you can pop it out that way. Otherwise, you may need to take the knuckle off the car and take it to a machine shop and have them use a press to remove it or take the whole car to a shop and have them do it all. If you take it to a machine shop, make sure they clean and grease the bore/hole in the knuckle so that the bearing doesn't get rusted in there again. Also, if you take it to a machine shop, hopefully they will be able to press the bearing/rotor/hub assembly away from the knuckle without seperating the hub from the bearing. They should be able to, just make sure you note that when you take it in. otherwise, if they seperate the hub from the bearing, it's resommended that you replace the bearing. Some poeple have gone without replacing the bearing but me personally, I would replace it. I wouldn't want it to go bad and then have to go through this all over again.

As for new wheel bearings anyway, if there isn't anything wrong with them then I don't see any point in replacing them.

vtecmw

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TouringAccord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">otherwise, if they seperate the hub from the bearing, it's resommended that you replace the bearing. Some poeple have gone without replacing the bearing but me personally, I would replace it. I wouldn't want it to go bad and then have to go through this all over again.

As for new wheel bearings anyway, if there isn't anything wrong with them then I don't see any point in replacing them.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, that's my dilemma. I separated the hub from the bearing. The bearing is still sitting on the knuckle. So, I wonder if I shouldn't just change out the wheel bearing and hub altogether. I'll try your suggestion for removing the wheel bearing. But, even if I do, I still have to look at getting a new bearing pressed in anyway, right?

TouringAccord

oh, so you already seperated the hub from the bearing. ok, well, like I said. It's recommended you replace the bearing. Personally I would.

I wouldn't replace the hub unless it's damaged or something. Even if the studs are damaged, those can easily be replaced. I would just get the inner race pressed off and the new bearing pressed on. You'll spend more just buying the parts and then still having to have the bearing and hub pressed together if you buy new hubs and bearings. Just get that flange bolt removed, get that bearing out of the knuckle and get the press work done at a machine shop. It may be hard to get that flange bolt off without something holding it real good because I would not put it in a vise incase it slips, you don't want to chew up the shaft on the hub. Since the hub is removed, it would probably be easier for a shop to drill out that bolt if thats the route you go to remove it.

You'll need to get the bearing out of the knuckle. If you can't, take it to a machine shop and have it pressed out. At the same time, have the inner race pressed off the hub and the new bearing pressed on the hub. Then you can either have them put it all back together or you can do it from here. If you do have them do it, make sure they grease the bore so the bearing doesn't rust in there again. If you do it, take everything home, take some sand paper and lightly sand the bore to clean up the rust where the bearing mounts. Grease it up, just the bore not the face. Make sure you have the new rotor installed on the hub with the bolts as snug as you can, then insert the hub/rotor/bearing assembly into the knuckle. Then torque the bearing into place and start reassembling everything. Don't forget to torque those four flange bolts holding the rotor to the hub.

vtecmw

Touring, thanks once again. I've pretty much come to the conclusion that I need to replace the wheel bearings and hubs. The existing components are in such bad shape. So, it's off to the local machine shop (once I find who will do all this for a reasonable price).

TouringAccord

np. If you don't mind me asking, what is in such bad shape with the hubs that makes you want to replace them? They run about 100-120 each don't they? As long as the face and shaft are ok, I wouldn't replace it. Rust and that is ok, that can be removed with some sand blasting, just as long as they aren't gouged, bent or warped. If you need new studs, those can be replaced for less than $1 each.

However if you do feel replacing the hubs is needed, it does make things simpler. Just remove the old bearing from the knuckle. Clean and grease the knuckle. Press the new hub and bearing together. Mount new rotor to hub. Mount the assembly to the knuckle.

vtecmw

Well, with the hubs... it's just a matter of getting the seized up bolts out. I tried the bolt out tool you recommended last night and that bolt absolutely will not move. I suppose I could have it drilled out by a shop. The other issue is that the bearing is still on the car. So, thinking about what you said in your previous posts, I thought it would be wise just to replace everything instead of simply working to get the hub bolts removed.

Also, I'm thinking about the age and mileage on the car (127000 mi) and whether it would just make more sense to replace the hubs and bearings for that reason alone.

Also, I discovered that the seals on the upper control arm are torn, so those will need to be replaced too. I figure why not just do the whole thing? The front end will be completely overhauled and I'll have very little reason to worry about it for quite some time.

What do you think?

TouringAccord

well, I can see where your coming from. But I would get a quote from a shop to get the bolts drilled out or removed somehow. I can't see it costing more than $25. Thats what they seem to charge people that come to my work and get things drilled out. And when I took my stuff to a shop to have all the press work done, they put everything thing together for only $25 a side. Also look into how much it's going to cost to buy a new hub. Then compare the two prices. If the price to get the bolts removed is much cheaper, go that route. Heck, have new studs put in (less than $10 for both fronts) and have them resurface the face of the hub as well. You should be good to go for a long while with that. But if the price to get all the work done is a too much, then just get new hubs. But I think you'll find that keeping the original part will cost less.

I wouldn't worry to much about the 127,000 miles. My car had more when I did mine and I kept the original hub. I just put a new bearing and new studs in there. When they did all that work, they also resurfaced and trued the hubs for free.

By "the seals on the upper control arm", are you refering to the ball joint boot? If so, that boot can just be replaced. Or you will need to replace the entire control arm since the ball joint and arm are an assembly that gets replaced as a set.

vtecmw

Thanks for the info. What are your thoughts on all of the rust and buildup on the inside of the hub and rotor, should I spray some rust remove and sandpaper? If so, I'll plan to attack the right side hub assembly this evening. Afterwards, I'll find a shop to do what you suggested and go from there.

I may still go the route of replacing the bearing if I can find a shop that will do the work for a reasonable price. I just want to get them done and not have to worry about them again for the longest amount of time possible.

As far as the upper control arm, there's grease leaking from the boot. I didn't know I could replace just the boot itself. The schematic I found on hondaautomotiveparts.com doesn't indicate that. The Haynes manual says the whole arm needs to be replaced as well. But, if I can replace the boot itself and leave everything intact, I'd be very happy about that option.

Thanks again.

TouringAccord

for the surface rust, just spray it with wd40 or pb blaster or something then take a piece of sandpaper or wirebrush and scrub away. You could even take a wire wheel or sanding disk on a drill to make it a little easier. You should be able to get it fairly clean. Just don't do anything to the shaft, that is a ground part. It should have any rust anyway but you don't want to rough up the surface. Just clean it up real good and you'll be fine.

Yeah, deffinately replace the bearing. If you can't get it out, find a shop that can. CHances are, if they can get the bearing out of the knuckle, they should be able to press the inner race off the hub and then press the new bearing onto the hub.

You are able to replace the boot but you'll have to find the right size. If I remember correctly, they don't sell boots specifically for the upper ball joint on the Accord. But as long as you get the right size, you'll be fine. I want to say TASauto has replacement boots, but I can't remember exactly.

Or if you don't feel confident in just replacing the boots, you could just replace the entire arm. It's not hard. But you should get an alignment after replacing any ball joint, so keep that in mind.

vtecmw

I found a shop who will remove the old bearings and press in the new ones for $25 each side. I'm going to go with an entirely new wheel hub/bearing assembly.

I'll also take a closer look at the control arm to see if I can simply resolve the problem by replacing the boot. Hopefully it will work.

Thanks again. You've been an unbelievable help.

TouringAccord

ok, so your just going to go all new then. Porbably not the way I would ahve gone but atleast this way you don't have to worry about getting the bolts out or getting the old inner race pressed off.

$25 a side seems to be about what everyone charges. I was more than happy to pay that $25 a side when I had mine done.

np, glad I could help out.

Fook_me_honda

ok guys sorry for bumpin this but i have to save it for later