Okay, I just did this yesterday and want to write it down while it's still fresh in my mind.
Keep in mind that this isn't a day-long process, but it's definitely not a quick install because of the difficulty in removing the blower motor assembly. It's possible to remove the blower motor assembly without removing the dash, but it's a tight squeeze. Removing the blower motor assembly is not as easy as this thread
lead me to believe.
About a week and a half ago I got into my '93 Honda Accord EX sedan to find that I had no air. We turned the **** back and forth, but the blower motor wouldn't turn on for any setting.
A friend (who had been in the driver's seat) checked the fuse (7.5A) and it looked good, but just to check he replaced it with a 30A (NOT A GOOD IDEA). The blower kicked back on and worked for that ride, which was about ten miles perhaps, but wasn't working when the car started again. Both fuses looked fine though. I ended up putting the correct one back in.
I priced the different parts I thought it might be at Autozone:
- Blower motor ($120 with lifetime warranty)
- Blower motor resistor ($30)
Needless to say, I was hoping it'd end up being the resistor. Turns out my friend's suggestion of it most likely being the resistor was spot on!
First off, some advice, YES your interior fan can just plain stop working if the blower motor resistor is bad. It does not have to, but can go out intermittently or some settings might work while others won't. But yes, it can also just plain stop working all together.
Anyway, on to the disassembly and installation instructions!
Please keep in mind that this was done on the BUTTON TYPE climate control. There might be some differences on the LEVER TYPE climate control equipped vehicles!
- Phillips Screwdriver
- 10mm deep socket
- ~2-4 inch Extension
- Flathead screwdriver
- Needle nose pliers
- Plastic baggie or bucket for your screws
- Vacuum with hose (some shop vacs might be too large)
- Another pair of hands could really help!
***Unfortunately I did not take photos when I did this. If anyone else has GOOD photos, I will add them to the post.***
If you have a Honda Service Manual, these instructions should start around page 15-2.
Turn the car on and select that the air come from outside the car. Honda's literature didn't mention this to me and it could have caused me to damage the door that opens so air from within the car will be sucked up from the passenger foot area and into the blower! Not to mention it's best that the blower assembly be as small as possible for this job. Turn the car off when you're done.
Open the glove box and using the Phillips screwdriver, remove the unique screw and washer holding the glove box damper to the right side of the glove box. Let the damper swing down. It shouldn't get in the way for the next step. Close the glove box when you're done.
Get under the glove box and look for two dark screws, one on either hinge. Remove those using the Phillips screwdriver. Watch out when because the glove box will try to swing out at the bottom when you remove these screws. Open the glove box and remove it. Set the glove box aside.
There is a metal bar going across the bottom of the glove box area. This is the glove box frame. On either side of this frame there are two screws apiece. There is a fold of dashboard vinyl covering them, so gently fold them away. Remove the screws using the Phillips screwdriver and set the glove box frame aside.
5A - NO AIR CONDITIONING EQUIPPED CARS
If you don't have air conditioning, you can remove the self tapping screws holding the heater duct on the car. The heater duct is to the immediate left of the blower motor assembly.
5B - AIR CONDITIONING EQUIPPED CARS
Remove the floor mat. Turn over the carpet on the front of the passenger front floor and pull it back as much as you can without damaging anything.
Pull the interior colored side cover away (it has three clips holding it in place) and set it aside.
The large silver plate is the ECU bracket. Using the ratchet, 10mm deep socket and extension, remove the nuts holding this bracket in place. There are two on top and two on the bottom. Remove the bracket when you are done. It might need to be rocked back and forth to get it off. You can unplug the ECU and set this aside (it might be easier to remove the three nuts holding the ECU to the bracket before you unplug it all).
Use the Phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws from the bottom of the blower under cover. Set the cover aside.
Using the needle nose pliers or a flathead screwdriver, carefully remove the tiny clip on the front of the blower assembly. Set this blower cover aside also.
Unplug the clear-ish plug to the top left of the blower motor assembly.
Use the Phillips screwdriver or ratchet, 10mm deep socket and extension to remove the metal band holding the left side of the blower assembly to the heater assembly next to it. Set the metal band aside (yes, it's still probably attached to the harness you just unplugged, but it shouldn't need to be separated).
Disconnect the connectors on the bottom right of the blower assembly. These are the blower motor resistor (large brown plug), recirculation control motor (plug) and the blower motor (plug).
Using the ratchet, 10mm deep socket to remove the nuts holding the blower assembly in place. You will want an extension for all but the upper right nut, which might be in too tight of an area for you to want to use the extension.
Open the passenger front door and use a flathead screwdriver to pop the two round covers off the right side of the dash.
Remove the two bolts under the covers using the ratchet and 10mm socket.
The removal of the actual blower motor assembly is the worst part of this job. You might want that extra pair of hands now.
Have your friend CAREFULLY pull the freed right side of the dash away (toward the rear of the car) so you can remove the blower assembly. This might take several tries!
Removing the bracket on the bottom right that holds the plugs in place might help too. It seems the blower assembly catches on a large bundle of wires behind and to the right of it.
Use the Phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws holding the resistor in place. Disconnect the plug from the bracket.
Replace the old resistor with the new one.
Now is the time to use that vacuum to remove all the dirt, leaves and pine needles from the heater assembly.
Installation is the reverse of removal. Honda recommends you use double sides adhesive to hold those two little flaps of the dashboard back in place, but my car didn't need
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