Bently_Coop

PCI FLCA bearings came in the other day.

Presidential_Detail

Video from this weekends Auto-x. Missed first place in SMF by .508 in a pretty competitive smf field. Still was 5th fastest overall in Raw time and took 2nd in PAX. Overall, not a bad weekend!

RSZero1

Nice stuff in here. I'll be running in the autos at el toro in a couple of weekends, so I'm hoping to do a synthetic oil change, install my sparco driver seat and hope to get suspension installed as well. I haven't had a chance to do my rear brake swap, RTA bushings and rear bearings.

This will be the last event at el toro, apparently the city is planning on developing the old airfield.

Charlie, I have to hold off for a little, but still interested. Glad to see everything worked out at the track.

Cooper, are you doing bearings all over, no longer a street car or are you willing to deal?

Given the surface at el toro, I think I'll end up finishing off my 195\50\15's. I'm looking forward to swapping on my 205's after.

I know very different wheels, but any opinions of work Meister s1 2 piece or enkei rpf1 - either in 15x8? The enkei is supposed to be around 11lbs, I have no idea how much the works weigh...

Bently_Coop

The bearings are only for the front lower control arm where connected to the subframe. The rear has voodoo13 arms with ES poly's and Hardrace RTA's. Mostly updating and upgrading at the same time. I want the car to be tight, solid and dependable. Still a part time street car but more for track use. I have two EF's so my other will be plenty for daily status once tuned. Waiting for injectors, and need a hard drive for my laptop.

Charlie Moua

iTrader: (3)

the center consol sold recently = (

RSZero1

D'oh, my bad, no worries, I took too long, lol.

RSZero1

Question for you guys - those of you who are running Koni's with stock tophats and GC's or even just Koni's with stock tophats -

Do you just pull that little metal sleeve and run the shaft through the stock rubber donut's? Normally the stock shaft slides through a metal sleeve through the donut's and then you have the washer and then a top nut.

On the Koni's, the shaft is too wide to slide through the sleeve, but fits through the donuts ok.

D'oh - forget it, I see the Koni kit is supposed to supply replacement sleeves that fit their shaft.

~sp33~

whoring an old pic

Presidential_Detail

^^
SO NICE!

Chef Andre

iTrader: (1)

I agree!!!!

RSZero1

I JUST finished installing my new suspension and doing my oil change for the auxto x event sunday. Man it took soo long, I had to do it in an underground apt parking garage - soo freaking hot...felt like i was melting...

I still have to set heights on all the corners tomorrow front looks a bit lower than i want. I kinda wish that GC had that height marking on the collars that those ebay ones do - just to make adjustments a little easier without a tape measure...

Did a full synth oil change and K&N filter. Was also going to install my rear mudflaps for the hell of it, but since they are for an 89, the mounting holes arent quite right, but not horribly off. If anyone has a set for a 91 and need the 89 let me know before I drill any holes, i'd swap em.

Everything kind of fought me on the first corner. Then it went progressively better - I feel like such an old man after, everything aches. My wife kept me company at least.

Man I think my bilsteins are pretty much done, not sure how to check them though - but the bumpstops appear to have melted under the dustboot gluing the dustboot to the shocks.

Then the rears have that weird circlip I couldnt get off, so i couldnt pull those bump stops.

I also pulled my Lightspeed front strut tower bar - if someone is interested, let me know - classic piece

Question - As long as I am not slammed, and running pretty firm, how long can I run without bumpstops? I need to pick up a set and try to install them without pulling everything back apart - maybe split them down the side, slip them onto the shaft then zip tie to secure?

Also - my driver side lower balljoint dustboot looks shredded, how can I tell how bad it really is - like is it ok to auto x sunday with it like that - or should I reschedule until after I fix it?

Sorry kind of rambling...its late

AND VERY NICE SP!! Damn that is clean...

RSZero1

Okay - no auto x for me.

Today I tried to install my sparco, and it turned out I had the wrong base - 91 crx, not crx/civic as labeled, lol.

Got the ride height dialed in and then took a test drive up to Angeles Crest -



THEN coming home, car went into limp mode (?) - almost at my exit, car stopped accelerating, puff of black smoke and died as I got off the freeway. Wouldnt start up and made a weird 'blurp' noise when I tried starting - tow driver thinks its the dizzy. I had full fuel and fresh oil.

Followed by more drama trying to get the car back into the actual apt garage...

~sp33~

You'll bottom out the first time and be like "****, i need bumpstops back in ASAP". They're just there to take the brash'edge' off of the bottom of the stroke.

Dizzy sounds likely re: other problem.

RSZero1

Okay looks like I'll order a set.

I pulled the cap off and checked inside, there were metal shavings. Also checked for spark, seemed to still have spark, I just can't tell if its weak or not.

If I'm getting spark that means the dizzy is fine right? Or are there issues since there are shavings present? Replace cap and rotor?

~sp33~

The tips can wear over time that's pretty common.. Depend how many metal shavings though really haha. How're you testing for spark? I take it the car wont start back up? If you're confident you've got spark it would be worth checking the fuel situation if the motor turns over fine before you order a dizzy.

rbwdriven

I know this is a stupid question.

When you checked for spark did you make sure the rotor button screw had not fallen out.

EF's are prone for that.

Mine did the same thing. Had it towed 2 miles to the house, saw the rotor button screw in the cap. Walked away before I set it on fire.

RSZero1

Thanks for the additional info guys -

SP - i did the stick a screwdriver in the plug wire and lay it across the ground/valve cover thing. I'm going to try and pick up a spark tester when I get a moment. I'll check the fuel at the fuel filter when I get home.

RBW - I didnt get to check and stupid me, I should have checked to see if it was turning when I had the cap off, I was mostly looking for wear, corrosion, etc. I found metal shavings that seemed recent (they were still nice and shiney, not dull). And the connecting screws to the ignitor were really rusty.

As a note, when I had the engine rebuilt (less than 5,000 miles now) I did not change out the dizzy - the car had been sitting since about 96 until I got a hold of it ) 2-3 years now.

sxysweed

You sure you actually have fuel? It's easy enough to check.. If you have spark via the screwdriver trick and can see it, it's probably enough spark to run the car. Could have jumped timing, too...

RSZero1

hey sxy - I think I may have found the issue. I'm def getting fuel - tried loosening the fuel filter bolt, turned the key to position one, and I have fuel.

But on closer inspection of the dizzy I found a couple of things -

1. I had blown the shavings out yesterday, after trying to crank i thought i heard a metal grinding - lo and behold, new shavings there today.

2. Also found one of the mounting bolts for the dizzy had worked loose - you can see below bottom of pic -



3. I had my wife crank while I watched the rotor - it rotates off center.

4. Not sure if this is normal - but it looked like something melted around the base of the rotor on the shaft - see below



I think it loosened, threw off the timing, warped the cap and maybe heated up the cap enough to melt that stuff at the bottom.

Question is, do you guys think I'm better off replacing the whole dizzy or just the cap and rotor? I can either get a dizzy at autozone with lifetime guarantee, or I may be able to get a new OEM.

rbwdriven

RS. You sure that is the bottom of the rotor?

That looks more like electrical tape.

RSZero1

EDIT - Sorry rbw, I see what you were saying - it looks like tape melted below the rotor. I'm actually not sure if its the rotor or something that melted onto the shaft and rotor. It feels hard, solid. I may have to swap the dizzy, then play with the old one to see what it is - could be plastic from something in there that just melted all over the shaft.

jdm_AE86

Lol i had this happen to me. Multiple time actually, to the point here I would tell the passengers Oh don't worry its just a screw. Give me a couple of minutes.

RSZero1

Well my diz was def an issue. I picked up a replacement from autozone - quickest avail and lifetime warranty.

Upon looking into my old one, it is very clear the base and halfway up to the top of the rotor was melted - even if I wanted to just change the cap and rotor - I cant get to the screw because the rotor melted over the top of it - you cacn also smell a very strong electrical burn odor.

I never had the OG NGK wires on there, prev owner replaced them, it has Bosch, but I dont think they fit the cap very well - so I may need to pick up new wires.

I got the new diz in place, but still cant get it to turn over - I think the battery is also low from cranking a bit on it.

Any more ideas - I know I should also check my fuses.

~sp33~

It's turning over and not firing right?

Make sure you reconnected your leads in the correct order?

redzcstandardhatch

"new" distributors, from parts stores, etc, are quite often NOT WORKING.....dont 100% assume its a good dizzy just cause its new. haha

got any buddies local who's car you can try it on?