portfl0w

iTrader: (1)

do you mean you believe you cannot lower the strut height with the sleeves, and instead you have to use the spring to lower the ride height which subsequently results/ed in a spring to perch gap?

techchild

If you mean that I turn the sping perches lower on the sleeve to lower it and not the actual strut itself then yet. It has adjustible lower spring perches lol Like gc sleeves just made by skunk2

portfl0w

iTrader: (1)

ok please forgive me as i am trying to understand, is it simply a sleeve which sits atop the strut which is threaded on the outside only? is there a adjustment other then the perch which comes into direct contact with the spring? it is most essential that the spring maintains preload at fully extended position of the strut plunger within the piston, if you have any slack you will likely get loose knocking noises and possibly strut shock damage from the spring rattling within the strut assembly on decompression/extension of the strut. ride height adjustment is obtained by altering the distance dimension from the bottom of the preloaded spring perch to the top strut fork, this is usually done with a adjustable sleeve and collar. if your springs don't have that adjustment, and you are using your spring pressure perch to adjust your ride height you will almost assuredly have abnormal performance and noise. raise the front of your car, grab the spring and wiggle it. if it moves, there is a good chance that it could be contributing to some if not all your noise.

techchild

Thats pretty much the jist, I had this same setup before on my other car already installed and it didn't make these clunk sounds.

SiR:Mallard

I used to have those, but good luck to ya.

acura_el2000

thanks! I love fabricating one-off pieces. my next project is a mahogany (to match my steering wheel) trunk floor with a hinged opening for the spare and some storage dividers

yeah I was thinking its a tad bit aggressive, but when its flat black and actually fabricated out of aluminum I think that it will be better. Keep in mind the sides will be capped off with my Mugen replica spats.

I can't really picture how to taper it tho.. maybe I can cut off the bottom edge to be flush with the outter-most vertical piece

techchild

This is kind of what it does except the threads aren't built into the strut.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ytG4LlWvEkI

techchild

Thanks for the picture, these are just temporary till I get the $800 dollars back that I loaned to my mom, opon further review of the package it looks like I forgot to install the rubber bushing that came withit it to quite it down, atleast the bolts should be easier to remove now. Hopefully this fixes the problem

portfl0w

iTrader: (1)

do yourself a favor, ditch that setup and get some coilovers or a solid spring/strut combo. all that adjustable spring on stock strut business just ends in disappointing headache, and will guarantee stock strut blowouts. take that spring slack out if any, see if it fixes it, then decide if you like the ride quality and height. if not, go back to how you had it, don't lower the spring away from the top hat. suspension is one of those areas of influence which affect the entire feel and quality of your car, any additional investment in the form of quality parts you can afford in this area is sure to give you giant returns long term, all the while you will enjoy the comfort of peace of mind and hopefully quality and reliable performance for years to come. if you can't afford a nice strut/spring combo, just wait a while and save up. i assume there's no rush and i can almost promise it'll be worth the wait.

techchild

I don't mind the ride I'm used to it, I got them for 20 bucks so I'm not complaining. I'll just put in the rubber boot to see if it helps. It's the same concept as gc/koni setup lol

portfl0w

iTrader: (1)

sweet if you don't mind the ride quality using a junk set of struts if you got em is a option. that way you can keep the oem struts for a rainy day, i know i personally wish i had done that before blowing out my stock shocks with aftermarket springs.

techchild

Thats a good idea. I should have the money back soon, say hello to coilovers :D

portfl0w

iTrader: (1)

i remember someone on here (just touge) found some Cusco coilovers that were pretty cheap when he had a 96-00 sedan quite some time ago $850 iirc . there's also a couple of other brands out there for under a grand. if i may, i suggest you take a ride in a car with a properly set up version of the suspension you are looking at. it's also advisable to look for a manufacturer who offers rebuild services and or rebuild parts/kits and looks like they will be in the game and offer said parts for at least the length of time which you plan to own your parts. i know personally from my experience the coilovers i have are gettin pretty old, and simply knowing i can send them in whenever i want for a rebuild really gives me a warm fuzzy feeling. GL

portfl0w

iTrader: (1)

some parts i've got.

techchild

I'll probably be going with the same ones I had on my Del sol :D

SiR:Mallard

Just completed a quick tour in the sedan. No CEL again. One more trip later tonight, and I will be convinced to be relieved of the bug in my fuel map. Does anyone know if the ECU can retain codes and not throw up a CEL, and thus allowing it to pass emissions? For example my car at first game me a code 45. Then when we hooked it to a diag computer it pulled back two DTC codes instead of one. They were, PO170 and PO171

HondaGuy951

iTrader: (2)

New Minor Upgrade. Some New "RS" Emblems and Headlights. Rear Mudguards and OEM EX Wing Coming Soon!

portfl0w

iTrader: (1)

yes the ecu will and does retain information it does not inform you about. essentially all the ecu gives you is dummy lights when something has already gone wrong. a check engine light will come on when, and only when a component or subsystem of the overall OBD system having to do with tail pipe emissions is affected. so for example if you have fouled spark plugs and your car misfires a good couple times, the misfire directly translates to unburned hydrocarbons which is realized by the knock sensor and confirmed by the o2 sensor. another example would be a damaged fuel pressure regulator diaphram, the increased fuel flow would be subsequently realized and confirmed by the o2 sensor and the light will kick on. it helps to realize that neither the fouled plugs nor pressure regulator are what triggered the light to come up, but are in fact the root cause of the emissions affected fault. look at it this way. the state/govt/population really doesn't care at all about your car, all they care about is what affects them which is what comes out of the tail pipe. since they really don't care much else about anything, there has been a standardized way of measuring and determining the emissions system health and functionality of cars called on board diagnostics (OBD). the OBD system actually has a wealth of information and tons of operational data, but the system is in place almost exclusively to keep control of tail pipe emissions (nowadays having a electronic engine management is more essential, but in the early days it was a inconvenience for some. think carburetors.). car makers also use the OBD to operate any additional systems and control engine management up to at least the minimum required OBD standards for the year of manufacture, and then usually a far more in depth and controlled manner of engine operation which is revealed using special tools other then just a handheld OBD scanner such as a diagnostic computer like most makers use today. a kia sephia and lexus ls430 both have to meet the same OBD requirements, but the lexus will probably use more ecm logic and more sensor input to have a more complete and clear picture of what is going on performance wise. they will both meet the same requirements set by the OBD standards, but there is always alot more to it. in order to repair a emissions affected fault the OBD standard dictates that a minumum level of generic diagnostic information must be made available such that a competent technician with generally universal tools and a OBD scanner can diagnose and repair the issue without the need of special tools or uncommon fault tracing techniques. in 96 the data link connectors were standardized in all OBD systems to function similarly so you could take a OBD2 scanner and pull the minimum emissions code requirements out of any 96+ vehicle. pre 96 OBD1 you have to use special connectors and special chips/cartridges with certain scanners on certain vehicles in order to get the min reqd. OBD faults. OBD0 was even more primitive and reduced in emissions control ability then the later 1 and 2, and any prior to that was manufacturer implemented methods of engine management which paved the way for OBD.

RareSpirits

Tech
About your adjustable springs it will get worse over time. That's why most ppl. shift to coilovers, but some do the same thing. Those particular suspension choices back in the day are what gave skunk a bad name, which was "Junk2." Your UCA bushings would go first, then aggressive drivers would have the threaded part of the coil would separate or split. A old High School buddy of mine had one shoot through his shock tower on his eclipse driving over railroad tracks.

Port
Thanx port. I do Fancy the vip. I wish I could present something subtle using my oem parts w/ out all the crazy aftermarket bodykits. The main setback...the rims. Hard to find or rather expensive in the event of failure and displeasure. Only time will tell.

EL
I hate to be a back up dancer, but yes a bit aggressive. It might even trap items being so low, but your on the right track.

Jerm
Looking good mr.RS

portfl0w

iTrader: (1)

also Mallard, on your car that second code may have had something to do with a parameter such as AFR or no load idle speed. something which does not immediately affect the emissions system in a way which the OBD system cannot rectify itself. so often times you might catch a code for things like short term/long term fuel trim. the ecu knows you have some parameter which is out of whack but is still within a given performance expectation window. so lets say with long term fuel trim being on the higher side, this could and is oftentimes the result of a small air leak somewhere in the system. that small air leak affects the emissions making it more lean, the o2 sensor picks up the lean mix when it knows it added the right amount of fuel and can see that the rpm wants to stay slightly high when the throttle position is rest or near closed. the logic inside along with input from other sensors is able to conclude that there is probably a small air leak so it will close up the idle air control valve a little bit at idle to keep the RPM down, and increase the fuel injector duty cycle to compensate for the lean mixture presented by the air leak. so the OBD system has a pretty good idea of how things are going, how things have been, and how they will be. if it's a code that doesn't trigger the check engine light then the emissions levels are being properly controlled and within a given function window even though the engine does in fact have a small fault. but it doesn't affect emissions, which means others don't care, which means you don't care, which means the ecu doesn't care if you know. but it knows.

RareSpirits

Here is some pertinent literature sourced from the Hard Drive ...I pm'd it to "Jay" but I feel everyone should know for the future. Making our thread the all knowledgeable.

portfl0w

iTrader: (1)

nice rare, i love flow charts. i think in flow charts step by step get to the nitty gritty.

marrben

some sort of updated snapshots real quick. ill take better ones later.

portfl0w

iTrader: (1)

lookin good bro, nice integra to. i love how the windows on the sedans don't have a upper track and it's just pure glass that rises up out of the door, always thought that was a neat aspect of the 4 door teggys.

marrben

thanks port. been looking at updates in previous pages of your car. hows it going so far?