deep6

hey guys:

reaching out to any honda/acura mechanics that might know what's wrong with my 1994 acura integra gs-r? i was on my way to a friend's house when i pulled up to a stoplight and upon idle my car died and all the check engine/idot lights came on. i noticed that prior to my car dying my idle dropped to around 500-600 rpms and my headlights seemed to dim as well while all this time the car seemed to stumble before actually shutting down. for a while i noticed in the mornings it would take longer to crank before firing up but, this would also happen after the engine has completely warmed up after driving on several short trips. at this point i have NO idea what's wrong...is it a fuel or ignition problem??

since then i'm able to start and drive the car but, again my idle dips down to about 500-600rpms stumbles and goes back up to the normal 700-750rpms. inaddition the headlights dim a bit as well but the car doesn't die on me. here's a list of almost all OEM parts that i've swapped out on my car along with the miles in parentsis of how many miles i've put on each part: any help or information would be greatly appreciated...feel free and post up here or send me private message

thank you.

114,440 (current miles on my car)
Fuel Filter
Checked Distributor Cap/Rotor and Cleaned/Sanded Contact Points
Checked ALL fuses to see if blown in Engine and Underdash
Checked ECU for any trouble codes but none displayed, i probably cleared them when i pulled all the fuses first
Checked Ground Wires and seem to be in good/solid connections
*Update: 6/13/04: Tested Alternator off the car at Autozone & Kragen and Passed all three tests underload with general alternator/starter tester.
*Update: 6/14/07: Tested Alternator off the car at Rite-Way Alternator/Starter and Passed while putting out 15.1 volts under load.
*Update: 6/15/07: Fully Rebuilt my OEM Nippondenso Alternator at Rite-Way Alternator/Starter and reinstalled in car but, same problems persist
*Update: 6/18/07: Checked condition of Denso Platinum Spark Plugs and Swapped back my OEM Acura Ignition Wires

104,691 (9,749)
Kirkland Battery - 12.8 volts with no load & 14.4 volts while idling

95,373 (19,067)
Main Relay

87,617 (26,823)
Distributor Cap/Rotor

86,842 (27,598)
Thermostat

73,451 (40,989)
Ignitor and Coil

64,040 (50,400)
PCV Valve

56,961 (57,479)
MSD Spark Plug Wires 8.5MM

51,356 (63,084)
Denso Platnium Spark Plugs

*Still running original OEM starter.





Modified by deep6 at 5:59 PM 6/19/2007

dtapia

when was the timing belt replaced ? does it crank over faster then normal like no compression ?

deep6

dtapia:

the timing belt job including the replacement of the following belts: T-belt, alternator, power steering, and ac + waterpump, etc... were all completed around 90K with all OEM parts. the car cranks over normally but, prior to it dying out it was get'n harder and harder to start in the morning and same whenever i would start/stop the car after short trips.

dtapia

ok i didnt see where it was posted about that but any how. the integ's had a coil problem on that gen and every now and then a igniter from time to time. are you getting any spark or fuel ?

deep6

dtapia: thanks for your feedback...i have replaced my ignitor and coil on my G3 GS-R and i have put on about 40K on both which are OEM Acura parts so i would assume these are still good. i believe i'm getting both spark and fuel which makes this problem to diagnosis really difficult. i'm able to start up the car every time and drive it as well but, what happens is that after warming the car up to operating temperatures...then when i come to a stop and idle...the tach needle drops from the normal 700-750rpms down to about 500rmps and feels like its stumbling and is about to shutdown on me. if i give it any gas or rev the engine up...the idle thing would happen along with the headlights dimming a bit then returning to normal at the same time the tach needle goes back up to 700rpms. the first time this happened all my dash lights came on and my car shut down but, i was able to restart and drive back home. this happended a total of two times while driving home that night. although i haven't been able to trigger any CELs again since i haven't driven around since then but, to only test it driving around my house to test various components that i have swapped out or test to see if it's running properly like replacement of the fuel filter/alternator/ignition wires.

I'm really frustrated at this point and simply don't know what's wrong with my car and i'm afraid to drive it really far as i believe my car will die on me at any given stop light or at idle! i'm planning on bring it in to serramonte acura for a diagnostic and i know its gonna cost me an arm & leg as the diagnostic is already $150.00 right off the bat but, i need my car back up and running to get to work,etc! anyways, if anybody has had similar problems or is an acura/honda mechanic...i would appreciate any help or information so please post up here and share with the rest of us or feel free and send me a private message...

thank you very much.

white90rexsi

Labor on the wst coast is 150 an hour? Jeeze! Im on the east coast and its about 100 bucks. I would drive the car so the check engine light comes back on then you can see what the code is.

-Chris

deep6

white90rexsi: i agree its highway robbery out here in terms of hourly rates at honda/acura dealerships--anywhere from 132 (SF Honda) to 150 (Serramonte Acura)! this is the main reason i've been holding off from bringing in my car and trying to solve the problems myself. i thought about just continually driving my car until it dies but, there is no guarantees that the check engine lights will come on again and throw a CELL code on the ECU at all. also, i would like to avoid having to push my car if if it dies in stop & go traffic especially if i'm on a hill on the city streets or worst yet on the freeway heading to work!

thank you.

white90rexsi

Any updates on the car?

deep6

wht90rexsi: sorry, i've been laying off from attempting to find out what's wrong w/ my car but, i plan on checking and cleaning out the FITV and the IACV next and see if that cures or helps the dipping and erratic idle problem that i'm having when my car is warmed up to operating temperatures. while i have the carb cleaner out i'm going to spray around the engine bay and see if there are any visible vaccum leaks. i'll see if i have time to check and/or test the fuel pump as well but, it might be time to pack it in and call in the professionals to solve this problem...**crossing fingers**! i simply don't know what's wrong at this point and kinda spent more time on this problem than i have but, it's definitely been a learning experience and i've appreciated everyone's help, suggestions,etc..thus far so please don't hesitate to post up here if you've experienced similar problems and found any cures for something similar...

thank you.