davidluko

I searched on H-T and found a bunch of different answers on how to bleed ABS-equipped cars. The thing with my car is, it's a 98 Integra GSR but I had to swap in the 97 ABS pump and the lines that go from the pump. Some people said that you need a special tool to do it but I kinda doubt that. One person said:

This is from memory, so please confirm that this is correct procedure:
Put a bleeder hose on the ABS nipple.
Turn the ignition on, you'll hear the ABS pump pressurize the system.
Turn off the ignition
Open bleeder screw and do a quick bleed.
Close bleeder screw.
Refill ABS resevoir
Repeat steps 2 - 5 as necessary.

And somebody else said:

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Here is the procedure for ABS brake fluid replacement (from the Helms manual - for '94-'97 Integra):

1.) Remove the bleeder cap from the maintenance bleeder on the modulator unit.

2.) Attach the wrench to the maintenance bleeder.

3.) Connect a rubber tube of the appropriate diameter to the maintenance bleeder, and set the other end of the rubber tube in a suitable container.

4.) While holding the rubber tube with your hand, slowly loosen the maintenance bleeder 1/8 to 1/4 to collect the brake fluid in the container.

CAUTION: Do not loosen the maintenance bleeder too much. The high-pressure brake fluid can burst out.

5.) Tighten the maintenance bleeder.

6.) Start the engine and let it idle for a minute. Stop the engine.

7.) Check the brake fluid level in the reservoir. It should be below the MAX (upper) level line.

8.) Repeat the steps 4 through 7 to drain the rest of the brake fluid from the modulator unit.

9.) Remove the cap, and refill the reservoir to the MAX (upper) level with fresh brake fluid.

10.) Repeat steps 4 through 8 twice, and refill the reservoir to the MAX (upper) level with fresh brake fluid.

11.) Tighten the maintenance bleeder to the specified torque (8 lbf-ft).

12.) After replacement, start the engine and make sure that the ABS indicator light goes off.

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BTW, '98-'01 Integras do not need to bleed the ABS system since it doesn't have a seperate brake fluid reservoir for the ABS system.

So has anybody done it and knows for sure? TIA

davidluko

bump

JimBlake

They're both correct, sorta...

The longer procedure (12 steps) is for REPLACEMENT of brake fluid, not just bleeding. That's why you repeat 4 thru 7 without filling the reservoir.

The shorter procedure is just for bleeding air out of the modulator. It's basically 9 thru 12 from the larger procedure. If your fluid is old, it's probably a good idea to replace it entirely with fresh (using the long procedure).

davidluko

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JimBlake &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">They're both correct, sorta...

The longer procedure (12 steps) is for REPLACEMENT of brake fluid, not just bleeding. That's why you repeat 4 thru 7 without filling the reservoir.

The shorter procedure is just for bleeding air out of the modulator. It's basically 9 thru 12 from the larger procedure. If your fluid is old, it's probably a good idea to replace it entirely with fresh (using the long procedure).
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Hey thanks for verifying man So since ABS and the brakes have to be bled seperately, does that mean that the brakes will be fine without me bleeding the ABS? Because I need to get the car drivable ASAP so if I can leave the ABS til later I'd rather do that.

JimBlake

Well, you're supposed to bleed the main brakes first anyway. The bleeding order from '95 Helm book is:
RR - LF - LR - RF - then ABS

It really doesn't take long at all to bleed the ABS. Most time is taken getting in & out of the car to run the engine. The ABS pump doesn't run unless the engine is running. Just be careful opening the ABS bleed screw. There's enough pressure so the fluid can cut thru your skin.

davidluko

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JimBlake &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well, you're supposed to bleed the main brakes first anyway. The bleeding order from '95 Helm book is:
RR - LF - LR - RF - then ABS

It really doesn't take long at all to bleed the ABS. Most time is taken getting in & out of the car to run the engine. The ABS pump doesn't run unless the engine is running. Just be careful opening the ABS bleed screw. There's enough pressure so the fluid can cut thru your skin.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I didn't do it in that order but the pedal feels fine, I guess I'll try it out when I get the car running.

And actually since it's only a 1-person job then I should be able to do it easily then. Thanks for the help

*edit - if I slam on the brakes to the point where ABS would turn on, it'd just not turn on and the brakes would lock up, right? And the normal brakes would be fine?

JimBlake

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hatch_R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> if I slam on the brakes to the point where ABS would turn on, it'd just not turn on and the brakes would lock up, right? And the normal brakes would be fine?</TD></TR></TABLE>That's how it's supposed to work.

lak8

sorry to bring this back from the dead but does the abs unit have anything to do with the firmness of the pedal.

I bleed my brakes 3 times and there is no air at all coming out of the lines, but the pedal is still somewhat soft. Do you think bleeding the abs unit would help with firming up the pedal and make the brakes work better under non-abs use (normal use)