Is it Possible to bypass the Crank-Position-Sensor w/ the Crank-Fluctuation-Sensor?
#126
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Re: (lostshootingstar)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lostshootingstar »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Though, i REALLY think whoever runs the ff-squad.com website should put a note in the CKF article that you MAY need to CUT the CKF wires, this would have saved me an anxiety attack..
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Wow, I should've checked this thread a while ago!
From what I'm gathering, it seems as though only Integra's are affected by this Code 9 problem once the CKF trick is performed - would you guys agree?
I will update this information on FFS TechNet - I'm currently redoing the FFS TechNet site as I type this..
Though, i REALLY think whoever runs the ff-squad.com website should put a note in the CKF article that you MAY need to CUT the CKF wires, this would have saved me an anxiety attack..
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Wow, I should've checked this thread a while ago!
From what I'm gathering, it seems as though only Integra's are affected by this Code 9 problem once the CKF trick is performed - would you guys agree?
I will update this information on FFS TechNet - I'm currently redoing the FFS TechNet site as I type this..
#127
Re: (Katman)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Katman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Wow, I should've checked this thread a while ago!
From what I'm gathering, it seems as though only Integra's are affected by this Code 9 problem once the CKF trick is performed - would you guys agree?
I will update this information on FFS TechNet - I'm currently redoing the FFS TechNet site as I type this..</TD></TR></TABLE>
incorrect, i was getting code 9 on a 99 civic si.
just fyi
Wow, I should've checked this thread a while ago!
From what I'm gathering, it seems as though only Integra's are affected by this Code 9 problem once the CKF trick is performed - would you guys agree?
I will update this information on FFS TechNet - I'm currently redoing the FFS TechNet site as I type this..</TD></TR></TABLE>
incorrect, i was getting code 9 on a 99 civic si.
just fyi
#129
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Re: (lostshootingstar)
Originally Posted by lostshootingstar
Just want to add my $0.02 to this thread:
I performed the CKF bypass trick on my 2001 Integra GSR (with an OBD2a JDM Type R Engine).
On the first try, the CKF CEL was no longer there, but like others in this thread i got the "code 9: Cylinder 1 position" code.
After freaking out thinking "great, now i have to do an oil pump swap!" i cooled down and read what MATiC had to say.
I CUT my two CKF wires right after the quick splices i already had in place, unplugged the ECU for a minute to try and clear it, started it back up and was CEL FREE!!
Can't thank you guys enough for saving me from an uneeded oil pump swap.
Though, i REALLY think whoever runs the ff-squad.com website should put a note in the CKF article that you MAY need to CUT the CKF wires, this would have saved me an anxiety attack..
I performed the CKF bypass trick on my 2001 Integra GSR (with an OBD2a JDM Type R Engine).
On the first try, the CKF CEL was no longer there, but like others in this thread i got the "code 9: Cylinder 1 position" code.
After freaking out thinking "great, now i have to do an oil pump swap!" i cooled down and read what MATiC had to say.
I CUT my two CKF wires right after the quick splices i already had in place, unplugged the ECU for a minute to try and clear it, started it back up and was CEL FREE!!
Can't thank you guys enough for saving me from an uneeded oil pump swap.
Though, i REALLY think whoever runs the ff-squad.com website should put a note in the CKF article that you MAY need to CUT the CKF wires, this would have saved me an anxiety attack..
#133
re: Is it Possible to bypass the Crank-Position-Sensor w/ the Crank-Fluctuation-Sensor?
Can somebody help me? This trick did not work for me im still getting code 54. It’s a d15b vtec in a 98 civic. Will this work with the d series?
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#136
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re: Is it Possible to bypass the Crank-Position-Sensor w/ the Crank-Fluctuation-Sensor?
bump, i just perform the CFK mod and it did not work for me. Im still getting code 54 on CEL, or did i miss a step. I spliced C1 and C4, C11 and C14. I disconnected the battery and ECU. I followed the steps and unsure what went wrong. someone help me please!!!
never mind problem solved
never mind problem solved
Last edited by Odom; 06-10-2009 at 11:21 AM.
#138
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Re: (boomslang)
Joe
Glad I found you hereas well.
I may have some questions about Dissy swap if I cannot find it by search
Glad I found you hereas well.
I may have some questions about Dissy swap if I cannot find it by search
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boomslang »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Thanks. That's interesting because the CYP is only a 4 tooth sensor. That's only 2 pulses per crankshaft revolution. I just wonder why/how it fools the ecu.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Uh, no.
For 88-01 Honduh:
TDC sensor is the 4 tooth reluctor, used to determine initial startup injector and ignition timing.
CKP sensor is the 16/24 tooth reluctor, used to fine tune engine position for precise injector/ignition timing control.
CYP is the 1 tooth reluctor, used to determine when cyl #1 is at TDC, for sequential fuel injection.
Go check your Helms if you doubt me.
You can take it as a reality check, or you can take it as me being an asshat, but outsourcing to the chinese to make all your harnesses has dulled your edge. That is the simple truth of the matter.
Sorta sad no one else picked up on that...
Thanks. That's interesting because the CYP is only a 4 tooth sensor. That's only 2 pulses per crankshaft revolution. I just wonder why/how it fools the ecu.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Uh, no.
For 88-01 Honduh:
TDC sensor is the 4 tooth reluctor, used to determine initial startup injector and ignition timing.
CKP sensor is the 16/24 tooth reluctor, used to fine tune engine position for precise injector/ignition timing control.
CYP is the 1 tooth reluctor, used to determine when cyl #1 is at TDC, for sequential fuel injection.
Go check your Helms if you doubt me.
You can take it as a reality check, or you can take it as me being an asshat, but outsourcing to the chinese to make all your harnesses has dulled your edge. That is the simple truth of the matter.
Sorta sad no one else picked up on that...
#139
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re: Is it Possible to bypass the Crank-Position-Sensor w/ the Crank-Fluctuation-Sensor?
Joe
I found a wiring diagram that worked later in this thread, so no more questions.
I am fitting a B20Z to replace a B18 ? in a 1989 Integra. The old dissy seized and broke a belt. The old dissy had 2 plugs, one was 7 wire round and the other was 2 wire round. The new dissy has 8 wires square. The diagram and your acronym breaker was enough for me to figure it out.
I found a wiring diagram that worked later in this thread, so no more questions.
I am fitting a B20Z to replace a B18 ? in a 1989 Integra. The old dissy seized and broke a belt. The old dissy had 2 plugs, one was 7 wire round and the other was 2 wire round. The new dissy has 8 wires square. The diagram and your acronym breaker was enough for me to figure it out.
#140
re: Is it Possible to bypass the Crank-Position-Sensor w/ the Crank-Fluctuation-Sensor?
Hi everyone. I'm in the midst of swapping a JDM B20B ZE into a 99 CRV with a B20Z2. After reading over this thread it looks like I have to bypass the CKF with the CKP to get things running smoothly. Is splicing C1 into C4 and C11 into C14 all that needs to be done? I'm relatively new to this so any help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Trevor
Thanks
Trevor
#141
Honda-Tech Member
re: Is it Possible to bypass the Crank-Position-Sensor w/ the Crank-Fluctuation-Sensor?
will this trick work at the reff??
what else would cause p1337 to come on? wrong dizzy? i think i might have the wrong dizzy its a b16 i know that but im using it on my itr motor and nothing seems wrong the power is 100% there idles fine.. or wrong engine harness? i think im using a 01'' itr harness so i guess its obd2b and im running my stock itr motor on a 98'' usdm itr obd2a ecu. in my 98'' gsr, and i got this p1337 code! i replaced the crank sensor and still have it, it did have damaged wires but im sure i fixed it any help would be great!
what else would cause p1337 to come on? wrong dizzy? i think i might have the wrong dizzy its a b16 i know that but im using it on my itr motor and nothing seems wrong the power is 100% there idles fine.. or wrong engine harness? i think im using a 01'' itr harness so i guess its obd2b and im running my stock itr motor on a 98'' usdm itr obd2a ecu. in my 98'' gsr, and i got this p1337 code! i replaced the crank sensor and still have it, it did have damaged wires but im sure i fixed it any help would be great!
Last edited by wunfstgsr; 10-04-2010 at 03:34 PM.
#142
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re: Is it Possible to bypass the Crank-Position-Sensor w/ the Crank-Fluctuation-Sensor?
edit: after closer examination of the parts I realized that the cfk gear is part of the timing belt cog!
I thought they were 2 seperate pieces. also found out the the usdm gsr cog wont fit
on the jdm itr oil pump im just going to throw the jdm pump back on ebay
and pick up a new usdm obd2 pump. learn something new every day!
very informative thread though, thx guys.
Bringing this back from the dead as it seems like a good spot to post my question.
I’m doing a 2000 gsr rebuild and i got a good deal on a jdm itr oil pump that i would like to use.
No place for CKP sensor so i was going to attempt this workaround.
My question is since im not installing the sensor, do i still need to install the sensor gear?
Does the timing belt pulley use the gear as a spacer?
Also, when i installed the jdm itr pump it looks like i was short a bolt. I didn’t have a bolt
for the location the (red arrow) is pointing to. I have a really short bolt left over but its not
long enough to catch the threads. Do i have to pick up another bolt from the hardware
store or will another accessory use that bolt hole?
Here is a pic of what im working with...
I thought they were 2 seperate pieces. also found out the the usdm gsr cog wont fit
on the jdm itr oil pump im just going to throw the jdm pump back on ebay
and pick up a new usdm obd2 pump. learn something new every day!
very informative thread though, thx guys.
Bringing this back from the dead as it seems like a good spot to post my question.
I’m doing a 2000 gsr rebuild and i got a good deal on a jdm itr oil pump that i would like to use.
No place for CKP sensor so i was going to attempt this workaround.
My question is since im not installing the sensor, do i still need to install the sensor gear?
Does the timing belt pulley use the gear as a spacer?
Also, when i installed the jdm itr pump it looks like i was short a bolt. I didn’t have a bolt
for the location the (red arrow) is pointing to. I have a really short bolt left over but its not
long enough to catch the threads. Do i have to pick up another bolt from the hardware
store or will another accessory use that bolt hole?
Here is a pic of what im working with...
Last edited by chrisdavis6; 05-04-2012 at 04:59 PM.
#143
re: Is it Possible to bypass the Crank-Position-Sensor w/ the Crank-Fluctuation-Sensor?
I did this a year ago on my 98 integra. it has been fineeee till I changed my altenator and thoroughly cleaned my interior. it will now randomly throw p1337 cfk no signal. clear and itll be 5 miles before it comes back, or 70 miles before it comes back. have a vibe its a shotty connection where I spliced since it seems to have a mind of its own to when its gonna throw the code. just lookin for any other possible ideas to look at before I just cut em and solder em instead of using the lil blue splice things.
#145
Honda-Tech Member
re: Is it Possible to bypass the Crank-Position-Sensor w/ the Crank-Fluctuation-Sensor?
I have read everything on this over the past few weeks and never got a clear answer here. the way the link describes is depin ecu plug or cut, which to me clear as day says cut on the ecu side. but that makes zero sense because you are just splicing the cyp into the unused ckf connector if that is the case. I assume its a weird typo that never got fixed, but the problem I have is I have wired this a multitude of ways including cutting on the connector side and my **** will not run right.
#146
Re: bypass ckf with ckp? (EallmotorF)
Quote, originally posted by satan_srv »
anyone? do the CKP and CKF send the same signal?
I just wanted to update that I tried this and it works! It is an easy way to disable the ckf sensor when swapping a non obd2 motor into an obd2 car. Just splice c1 to c4 at the ecu and c11 to c14(not sure if this is necessary or not but I did it) and you are ready to go.
I came up with this idea when I realised that the ckf had 12 points at the crank and I was pretty sure the ckp was 24 at the cam on obd1 and 2 distributors. I searched to see if any one else had tried it and this is the closest post I found to anyone even thinking of it so I am posting it to save everyone else the trouble of swapping oil pumps.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
just found this... what do you guys think ?
anyone? do the CKP and CKF send the same signal?
I just wanted to update that I tried this and it works! It is an easy way to disable the ckf sensor when swapping a non obd2 motor into an obd2 car. Just splice c1 to c4 at the ecu and c11 to c14(not sure if this is necessary or not but I did it) and you are ready to go.
I came up with this idea when I realised that the ckf had 12 points at the crank and I was pretty sure the ckp was 24 at the cam on obd1 and 2 distributors. I searched to see if any one else had tried it and this is the closest post I found to anyone even thinking of it so I am posting it to save everyone else the trouble of swapping oil pumps.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
just found this... what do you guys think ?
#147
Re: bypass ckf with ckp? (Davemel)
I have a 1997 Honda Civic EX.
It throws a P0335 crank sensor circuit A code after it gets to temperature.
It runs perfect till it warms up. I changed ckp, ign coil, igniter, timing belt, cat and oxg sensor.
Can you please shed some light on my issue? I'm thinking it may have something to do with a temp issue. The temp gauge is in spec.
Will this bypass solve this issue?
Kudos!
#148
Re: bypass ckf with ckp? (EallmotorF)
I pmed you this back to you but I will post for all to see since I originally made the first breif post.
I dont remembet the exact details but the concept is pretty simple, when the motor is running the ecu is trying to compare the ckf sensor at the crank(which you no longer have) with ckp sensor from the dizzy which both output the same 12 pulses per crank revolution(or 24 per cam revolution) to make sure your timing belt is alligned correctly. All you need to do is to run the wires from the ckp from the distributor to both the ckp and the ckf and the ecu is happy. I dont have a pinout handy and you may want to search for a good obd2 pinout because the pin layout is a little more confusing on these and the pins I posted were only for obd2a, if you are obd2b it will be different. From what I can remember from that old post for obd2a you take the ckf(the crank sensor you dont have) which is pins 1 and 11(11 should be directly below 1) and cut them a few inches from the ecu, then take the ecu side and tap c1 into c4 but make sure the original c4 is still hooked up. Then tap c11 into c14(c14 is directly below c4) leaving c14 hooked up as well. Now the wires for c4 and c14 should go into pins both c1, c4 and c11,c14 respectively. The wires for c1 and c11 on the harness side stay unhooked as they went to the sensor that is no longer there anyways. Hope that clears it up for ya!
I dont remembet the exact details but the concept is pretty simple, when the motor is running the ecu is trying to compare the ckf sensor at the crank(which you no longer have) with ckp sensor from the dizzy which both output the same 12 pulses per crank revolution(or 24 per cam revolution) to make sure your timing belt is alligned correctly. All you need to do is to run the wires from the ckp from the distributor to both the ckp and the ckf and the ecu is happy. I dont have a pinout handy and you may want to search for a good obd2 pinout because the pin layout is a little more confusing on these and the pins I posted were only for obd2a, if you are obd2b it will be different. From what I can remember from that old post for obd2a you take the ckf(the crank sensor you dont have) which is pins 1 and 11(11 should be directly below 1) and cut them a few inches from the ecu, then take the ecu side and tap c1 into c4 but make sure the original c4 is still hooked up. Then tap c11 into c14(c14 is directly below c4) leaving c14 hooked up as well. Now the wires for c4 and c14 should go into pins both c1, c4 and c11,c14 respectively. The wires for c1 and c11 on the harness side stay unhooked as they went to the sensor that is no longer there anyways. Hope that clears it up for ya!
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