99CivicSiBrian

I replaced 2 brake lines last year. I did the first because I thought it leaked but it turned out a different one leaked. I also replaced the proportioning valve because I fuked up the old one trying to remove the bad brake line.
I bled the brakes by opening up the valve and pumping the pedal until just fluid came out, but I didn't use any special bleeder. I did this at each wheel. Now, under long stops, the pedal sinks so so slowly and it seems to have 'lag' too. . . like it takes more initial push to get it to start acting. Should I bleed with one of those bleeders, or would I more likely have a bad Master cylinder?
Thanks for any help.
Brian

old man neri

It does sound like your Master Cylinder is at fault but I am not to sure.

question for you.....why post this in the wheel and tire forum?

George Knighton

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 99CivicSiBrian &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I replaced 2 brake lines last year. I did the first because I thought it leaked but it turned out a different one leaked. I also replaced the proportioning valve because I fuked up the old one trying to remove the bad brake line.</TD></TR></TABLE>
When you do something that introduces huge amounts of air into the system, like replacing a master cylinder or a proportioning valve, it can take a very, very long time to get all the air out.

In order to get all the air out of the system, people will have to result to slowly flushing the entire system using one or even two complete cans of brake fluid. It's a long, time consuming and infuriating process.

If you have a mechanic friend, he might be able to lend you a device that allows you to bleed faster by being able to bleed at the master cylinder or proportioning valve.

Since you did this "last year" it's possible that you need a new master cylinder. What can happen if you have to do a lot of bleeding on a master cylinder that hasn't been bled a lot for a long time is that as you keep pushing the pedal down to the floor you push the master cylinder seals over slightly corroded areas inside the cylinder, and this rips up the seals as you keep bleeding.

So don't be too surprised if that's what you end up doing, replacing the master cylinder. It might, in fact, just be the easiest thing to do.

highroller54

either you have a leak or you need a master

GencivicIII

I had an accord that did the same thing. Replaced Master Cylinder and problem solved.

acura69integra

to me it definately sounds as if your master cylinder is bad. My integra did the same thing when stopping on a hill I would have to continuously reapply the peadal when the fluid would get past the piston in the master cylinder. if you don't have any other leaks than get a new master cyl.

BIG KEN

You should check the MC as soon as possible, you don't want brake fluid leaking in to the brake booster ruining the diaphram. Happened to me and it sure was pricey

99CivicSiBrian

There wasn't a 'brake' forum and I figured the wheels and tires are closest to the brakes. . . or maybe suspension.
Mod. feel free to relocate.
B

99CivicSiBrian

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by George Knighton &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Since you did this "last year" it's possible that you need a new master cylinder.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I guess I should have also mentioned that the car was only driven about 500 miles since I made the initial repair. I thought I bled the whole line system. I used all new Honda brake fluid which came out clean when it reached the bleed valve. I bet you're all right and I need a new MC. The last time I drove a car that needed an MC it was alot easier to detect the problem. Maybe mine is just starting to take a ****.

Well, I'll check it out tomorrow!
B