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So I was finally able to get my project rolling, and I knew I was going to need some help along the way so I figured this was a good place to start.
First some history on the car. It's a 2001 gsr she'll. The previous owner was building it as a "track only" car, so it doesn't have PS/AC or even a heater. AC and heater components have ALL been removed, everything from lines condesor evaporator and everything behind the dash, everything except for the HVAC controls. PS pump and reservoir have been removed and the rack just left in place.I can live without AC but I'm definitely going to work on getting PS and heater back soon.
Now for the engine: It's a B20b block with YCP high comp pistons, arp rod bolts, acl bearings, stock b20 crank shaft. The head is a stock B16 head that was cleaned and new seals put in before putting the engine together. All work done by GMS machine shop in el paso. Running a P72 OBD1 ECU w/ jumper harness to obd2. Transmission is a la trans with a stage 2 clutch. I'm working on getting a gsr trans soon hopefully. The build isn't done still gonna upgrade cams, I/M, and do some fuel system upgrades before getting it tuned.
Iv put about 3K miles on the build and it had been running strong. Last night me and my buddy were cruising, caught a red light and we (for ***** and giggles ) raced. Car pulled hard like it had been since starting it up, except this time it hit the rev limiter at 6500 rpms and I couldn't get it to go past that. I checked for codes and it had code 7(tps) I checked the connections to it and wires, found that the housing on the sensor where it connects to the harness was cracked (going to replace that, but if this is was the problem wouldn't it have started since I started up the car after the rebuild?) And a code 23 (knock sensor, I'm not running one which is why the code is thrown, should I be running a knock sensor?) And the car for like the past two weeks has been surging at idle, not much it goes from like 700 rpms to about 1000 give or take. This morning on my way to work I decided to test it out, and what do you know went through the rpms all the way to 8K without a problem, tried it a 3 time, and boom there it was again hitting the rev limiter at 6500rpms and couldn't get past that. So needless to say this is my first plea for help. Can anyone point me in the right direction as to what could be causing the car to only rev to 6500??? Need help please!!!!! I should mention Vtec kicks in at 4500 everytime, you can both hear it and feel it.
And before I get hammered, I forgot to mention oil pressure, and fuel pressure is good, I tried 3 different distributors last night and nothing helped, I'm going to try another P72 ecu today and see if that changes anything along with the new tps sensor. Still need some guidance tho please!!!!!!!!!!
On another note. I have the cooling fan wired directly to a switch inside the car, so I have to manually turn it on and off. Can anyone tell me what I need, and how to set it up so that the fan turns on/off on its own?
Well after a couple more days of doing some more research and messing with the car, I figured it out! I'm going to 8k with ease now! Just waiting for my cams and I/M to show up so I can get em in and go get a tune. Still trying to figure out if I should be running a knock sensor, Iv done research and nothing is definitive some say yes other say no. In the mean time in going to work out some details with the car for now, it idles weird it surges from like 700rpm to just above 1K and every once in a while when the rpm drops it almost dies. This morning I turned the car on and was going to work and leaving the house I couldn't get it to go past 2K rpms. Turned the car off and on and it was back to normal Idk wtf. Didn't get any help here but thanks for looking!
Need some help here! Can anyone tell me if the exhaust cam gear/bolt looks like its wobbling? Is it the cam that for some reason is wobbling? Or is it the washer not centered giving it the illusion of a wobble? Iv read also that sometimes the bolt itself isn't exactly perfect meaning the head isn't exactly centered?
And if anyone should be interested (haven't seen much love for the new guy on here lol) I'll hopefully get around to actually posting pics and updates on my build tomorrow. Iv just been so busy and frustrated working out the details that have come with the build. And thanks for any help.
I've never seen a plug like that sooooo not much help here. Thanks for sharing though, that is pretty crazy! As for the wobble again, no clue. Very helpful post hey?
I've never seen a plug like that sooooo not much help here. Thanks for sharing though, that is pretty crazy! As for the wobble again, no clue. Very helpful post hey?
Lol yea thanks anyway tho! I still can't figure out the wobble thing been doing research on that and checking stuff it might just be the bolt head since the gear itself is straight. I swapped it with one from a buddy of mine had laying around and it did the same thing. Going to try changing the bolts next.
And here are some pics finally. Just some I had on my phone I'll get some more later! This is what it looked like a couple weeks ago. Wheels were 15x8 w/ 3 inch lip fronts and 15x9 rears with 4.5 inch lip
195/50/r15's all around
Did a wire tuck on it, which im still working on. I have a SMSP header im going to install soon and ditch the comptech header. Saving for a full 2.5" exhaust and hope to free up some ponies there. Also have skunk2 pro +1 cams that are going in soon as i get some cam gears, followed by a tune after that.
And this is how it sits now. Ditched the felgenwerks 57rv's for some 15" rota slips on 205/50/r15 faulken azenis. The felgens were nice but it drove like ish because of the mild streched tire. I prefer the rota's now personally i think it gives it a bit more sportier look
That plug is horrible, I don't know how that would happen... Did you dip your CAI directly in a bag of nutmeg. lol
lol you would think so. Plugs were new when I installed them and only put about 1K miles on them, not sure what happened to make em turn that color I'm thinking bad gas somewhere along the way idk. I switched them for some ngk r bkr7e and seem to be doing fine
Also going to repaint my valve cover this weekend and install some catch can/ breathers running off the valve cover with -12 braided lines. Only because there seems to be oil seepage at the valve cover gasket and oil pan gasket, they literally always look moist no matter how much I clean em up, and can seal seeps a bit too and I switched it out 2 already. I'm thinking too much crankcase pressure causing this so venting it should help. Compression and leak down test all seemed good so I figure this is the next step based on research Iv done.
Are you planning on getting your car tuned and on a dyno? I'm curious what your b20v setup will put down. Are you using a legit SMSP header or a knock off?
Are you planning on getting your car tuned and on a dyno? I'm curious what your b20v setup will put down. Are you using a legit SMSP header or a knock off?
yea I'm getting it dyno tuned at SQC (albuquerque NM) for sure especially after the cam install soon as I get the funds for it, for now I'm still doing my research on the ecu/chip thing I'm still not clear on the whole socketed and chipped ecu thing (yea I'm a noob big time in that subject). Depending on what my paycheck looks like next week I was thinking about a street tune for now just make sure I'm not gonna blow **** up or anything. Don't know if it will be worth it, thoughts? And no the smsp is a knock off a buddy of mine had, I wish it was legit, but it should be better then the comptech header I have now, which has started to crack 😭
Iv been running 91 octane since I started it up. The plugs were ngk bkr6e gp. Swapped them for ngk bkr7e-11 I checked em yesterday and they look normal.
Here is some helpful advice. Ditch the idea of a chip on a socketed ecu. You need something fully programmable. Find a hondata s300 or use ectune. Your tuner will thank you and you are able to get a much better tune and not have your car run like ****. Pro 1's are also very aggressive in comparison to stock. My back ground is coming from H series motors but with any aggressive cam you'll need to degree your motor for the cam. I highly suggest reading up on how to degree. Otherwise you could end up with a very poor running motor, bent valves or a whole range of other issues. Those cams are not simple drop in's.
Here is some helpful advice. Ditch the idea of a chip on a socketed ecu. You need something fully programmable. Find a hondata s300 or use ectune. Your tuner will thank you and you are able to get a much better tune and not have your car run like ****. Pro 1's are also very aggressive in comparison to stock. My back ground is coming from H series motors but with any aggressive cam you'll need to degree your motor for the cam. I highly suggest reading up on how to degree. Otherwise you could end up with a very poor running motor, bent valves or a whole range of other issues. Those cams are not simple drop in's.
thanks that's actually what I'm confused about. I was planning on hondata s300, but not sure how it works. Does Hondata just plug and play (sort of speak) on to the ecu, and once installed is that all I need for the tuner to go to work when he dynoes it? Or is there something else I need? And as for the cams, I'm aware they are aggresive and don't just drop in, that's why I'm saving for some adjustable can gears and I'm going to have a very reputable shop here in town drop them in and set em up, but I have to save for the labor time as well. Other wise I'd drop them in myself and be done with it. I did a lot of research and at the end decided that's the cam I was going to go with since later in the future(like next year maybe) I plan on port and polishing the head/port matched with a edelbrock IM with supertech valve train and would like to reuse that same cam for that setup. I had port flow do something simular on a sr20det head I had and really like their work so I'm going with them again for my b16 head.
Basically the s300 is a program (chip) that gets socketed into the ecu. It has a cable port that also gets installed and a little bit of the ecu metal wall gets cut open for the access. It's the same idea for basic chips but Hondata allows the tuner to change anything they really need to. If you are having a shop install them ask them if they will be degreeing the cams. If they look at you with a confused look find a new shop. A lot of motors don't require cams to be degreed but these wonderful dohc motors do. Either way i'm excited to see the progress and wish you the best!
Basically the s300 is a program (chip) that gets socketed into the ecu. It has a cable port that also gets installed and a little bit of the ecu metal wall gets cut open for the access. It's the same idea for basic chips but Hondata allows the tuner to change anything they really need to. If you are having a shop install them ask them if they will be degreeing the cams. If they look at you with a confused look find a new shop. A lot of motors don't require cams to be degreed but these wonderful dohc motors do. Either way i'm excited to see the progress and wish you the best!
what I think I'm going to do is purchase the hondata s300 and have the tuner socket the ecu and have him install hondata and go from there, does that seem about right? And yea the shop that's doing the cams isn't a repair shop, it's a performance shop (if that makes sense). Iv known the owner for years and he has 20 or 30+ years building high horse power engines, not saying he knows everything (personally I think a tech that thinks they know everything is kinda ignorant, personal opinion) but he can get my set up dialed in correctly. I have also seen what there drag cars can do on the strip. So yea I trust them and they themselves suggested the adjustable can gears so they can dial everything in perfectly. Thanks I'll keep updating as I progress in the build. Not sure how much power I'll make but I'm excited to find out.
09-27-2016, 06:38 AM
My 2001 b20v project
