chickenwing

the inner lip are rusted and started to spread like cancer.
do i need to replace the whole rear quarter?

IMPATIENT

iTrader: (1)

no you dont need to replace the entire qp, however you do need to replace the sections that are rusting. you need to get some replacements. Cut off the old ****, weld in the new ones. etch prime. do a little bodywork, urethane prime it and your good to go to start preparing for paint.and should not have any problems if you do it correctly, if you dont have experience in that it can be a challenge, but it is doable by a beginner with a little bit of guidance. If its just the corners of the wheel wells that are rusting,you can just by a front fender instead of an entire section, and cut off the section of the front wheel well that you need for the rear, it will match up to the rear. we do this about 10 times a month in our shop. That can save you a bit of money cause you can use a used fender from the junkyard if you needed to.

this is probably what you need though, just cut your current ones off after measuring and tracing out, then get to welding.it can be quite a bit of work but its what you need to do for it to be correct and not start rusting again.

http://cgi.ebay.com/88-89-90-91-Hond...1%7C240%3A1318

JDMCRX

iTrader: (2)

Your in mtl buddy They dont use salt there so, you can either cut it out or grind it depends how bad it is. Post up a pic and what kind of car is it?

suthernbred904

how much would it cost to get it done at ur shop? im in the army and stay out near d.c. ?

KILLAB17VTEC

just throw on a putty or bondo if u dont want to cut and welded.shop will charge u more for bodywork.

IMPATIENT

iTrader: (1)

shop is in virginia beach. its 300 per side to cut out and replace and 300 per side to paint. would only take a few days. Im assuming its a honda civic, correct me if im wrong.



i really hope that is sarcasm. if not, just so you know your entirely WRONG.

Bondo/or any other putty for that matter will not stop rust from spreading. And if you put that **** right over top of rust, the rust will come right through it, the filler will seperate and than youll just have another problem and more work to deal with.

chickenwing

have you used those replacement parts from the seller? Are these good parts that are very close to OEM? I had used Taiwan parts before and the fit is mediocre but can't complain about the price though. I guess that is the trade off PRICE VS FIT

KILLAB17VTEC

thats not very true,cuz i use to do this to my crx around the rear wheel and it holds up pretty good.you gotta sand it down first.only time rust will spread is when u dont rarely get a car wash.

IMPATIENT

iTrader: (1)

i havent used them from that exact seller, but we have used them in the shop from other aftermarket companies. And exactly, price vs fitment, your getting a cheap *** new piece, might take a little more finesse.




im just gonna go ahead and assume your posting on this forum for your own personal amusement. You can sand rust down all you want, if you dont use very good chemical rust converters,and good etch primer sealed in with a waterproof 2k urethane primer, your not going to get rid of it. Even if you think you got all of it you most likely didnt. You may be able to sand it down and throw some bondo and have it last a little while, but ultimately its going to be ruined, rust spreads like wildfire. O.P said the lips are starting to rust and spreading. Game over, they need to be replaced. And just so ya know, if you have exposed rust, and you go to the carwash 5 times a week, putting more water on it and letting it sit inside the wheel well, its going to keep rusting.

KILLAB17VTEC

it not just my personel opion.im pretty positive that others have try some new high-tec product out there?do researchs,check it out it might save u pennys.i agree with u on the replacement if u wanted to get it done rite.

http://www.por15.com/prodinfo.asp?grp=1&dept=1

http://www.por15.com/TechInfo.asp

IMPATIENT

iTrader: (1)

yea thats looks to be a good product if you just want to cover it up, however id be worry about it reacting with primer or paint etc, because of the nature of the product, but im sure they make something to use. but when you said BONDO thats what i was arguing about, bondo is not a rust preventative or sealant like that product is. Bondo is very porous and absorbs moisture. That por-15 looks to be just a hardening agent that may react with rust to create a form fit or something. Looks neat, never used it.

suthernbred904

i might be interseted in getting the work done,im in the army and here in d.c. and i used to live in va. beach awhile ago. how long would you say the process on just the work not paint would take? pm me with your answer please,
thanx