$50 paint job help
#1
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$50 paint job help
FIRST IF YOUR GOING TO TELL ME THAT IT WAS A BAD IDEA OR A WASTE OF TIME GTFO
with that said I am attempting to do the $50 rustoleum paint job on my car. I am using a 30 gallon compressor and a cheap hvlp gun I got from harbor frieght. I adjusted the tank pressure to 90psi and the pressure at my gun to 40psi. I mixed the the paint with mineral spirits with a 50/50 mixture. I sprayed my bumper first just to see how it would come out and I got crazy orange peel. My question is what are the mixure ratios you guys are using and what psi do you leave your tank at and what psi at the gun. Thanks
after 400grit wetsand to remove most of the orange peel
I also read about people wetsanding 15mins after first coat, I put the first coat waited 20mins put the second coat on let it dry overnight but the paint was still soft
This is after the fourth coat im going to wetsand with 800grit
this is what I have my compressor set to
this is the gun im using and the pressure on the gun
why am I getting so much orange peel
with that said I am attempting to do the $50 rustoleum paint job on my car. I am using a 30 gallon compressor and a cheap hvlp gun I got from harbor frieght. I adjusted the tank pressure to 90psi and the pressure at my gun to 40psi. I mixed the the paint with mineral spirits with a 50/50 mixture. I sprayed my bumper first just to see how it would come out and I got crazy orange peel. My question is what are the mixure ratios you guys are using and what psi do you leave your tank at and what psi at the gun. Thanks
after 400grit wetsand to remove most of the orange peel
I also read about people wetsanding 15mins after first coat, I put the first coat waited 20mins put the second coat on let it dry overnight but the paint was still soft
This is after the fourth coat im going to wetsand with 800grit
this is what I have my compressor set to
this is the gun im using and the pressure on the gun
why am I getting so much orange peel
Last edited by MurtazaDSM; 06-06-2011 at 12:54 PM.
#2
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Re: $50 paint job help
So I found out why my first 2 coats had alot of orange peel. I had the pressure on the gun at about 20psi on the third and fourth I adjusted it to 35 and I still have some orange peel but much much less than the first 2 coats. How long does it take before I can wetsand and buff the final coat? It been almost 2 hours since I layed the final coat and its still wet
#3
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Re: $50 paint job help
You are getting orange peel because you are not atomizing the paint enough. Don't worry about so many numbers, just practice different settings on the gun with the compressor as high as you can until you get good atomization.
#4
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Re: $50 paint job help
yea I figured it out I had the pressure way too low and the paint was coming out it blobs instead of a fine mist. I got the settings right now thanks, would you know how long it usually takes for the paint to cure enough to wetsand and ploish I know this kind of paint takes about a month to fully cure but how long should I wait to wetsand and polish. I sprayed my last coat over 2 hours ago and its still a little wet
#6
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Re: $50 paint job help
After I sand the rest of the car with 400 grit can I just paint over it or do I have to prime the whole car I am going to primer repair and bondo spots but do I have to prime the whole car
#7
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Re: $50 paint job help
here is the bumper finished I wet sanded with 2000 grit then used meguirs ultimate compund and it still looks dull is it because the bumper is polyurethane also I didnt use any primer or sealer on the bumper I just wetsanded it with 600 grit and painted over the old paint
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#9
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Re: $50 paint job help
^^ yup yup.....
i got everything i needed from a local paint supplies shop for 90$ and i painted my two fenders and a hood with about 3 coats just for practice and i got to say it was pretty decent for my first time ever painting
I run a 35 gallon compressor pretty much like you but i ended up getting a better gun than HF (but you CAN get a decent finish with it)
just gather 90$ and look in the phone book for paint suppliers, you wont regret it
i got everything i needed from a local paint supplies shop for 90$ and i painted my two fenders and a hood with about 3 coats just for practice and i got to say it was pretty decent for my first time ever painting
I run a 35 gallon compressor pretty much like you but i ended up getting a better gun than HF (but you CAN get a decent finish with it)
just gather 90$ and look in the phone book for paint suppliers, you wont regret it
#11
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Re: $50 paint job help
just shoot your base coat, than buy some automotive clear coat, after that, wet sand with 1000 grit. you can use compounds after that to get the shine
let the paint try for 24hrs
let the paint try for 24hrs
#15
Honda-Tech Member
Re: $50 paint job help
Although pics can lie it looks to me like you did an OK job spraying. The real work is in color sanding and buffing. Read up on it before you do any more work. There are a lot of great videos on youtube that can teach you just about everything.
Assuming you didn't make any mistakes in the wetsanding it looks to me like you just need to buff the paint out. The compound you bought won't do the job. You will need to go to a auto paint supply store and get some real compound and polish. Put a dab of the meguiars consumer grade compound between your fingers then compare it to the real compound made for professional bodymen. The good stuff will feel like fine sand. My jaw dropped when I felt/understood the difference. Consumer grade compound is made to be safe for anyone to use.
You are also going to need a buffer, a cheap one like this will work fine: http://www.harborfreight.com/7-inch-...der-92623.html And last you will need buffing pads, either wool or foam in a few different compounds. I'm not going to tell you which compounds to get, watch some cut and buff how to videos on youtube, learn for yourself and you'll be much better off. Again get these from a real auto body supply, not from autozone or harbor freight.
Finally a real buffer with real compound is a dangerous combination, it will take the paint off in an instant. Watch a lot of how to videos and practice on a junk panel first.
Wrong.
Assuming you didn't make any mistakes in the wetsanding it looks to me like you just need to buff the paint out. The compound you bought won't do the job. You will need to go to a auto paint supply store and get some real compound and polish. Put a dab of the meguiars consumer grade compound between your fingers then compare it to the real compound made for professional bodymen. The good stuff will feel like fine sand. My jaw dropped when I felt/understood the difference. Consumer grade compound is made to be safe for anyone to use.
You are also going to need a buffer, a cheap one like this will work fine: http://www.harborfreight.com/7-inch-...der-92623.html And last you will need buffing pads, either wool or foam in a few different compounds. I'm not going to tell you which compounds to get, watch some cut and buff how to videos on youtube, learn for yourself and you'll be much better off. Again get these from a real auto body supply, not from autozone or harbor freight.
Finally a real buffer with real compound is a dangerous combination, it will take the paint off in an instant. Watch a lot of how to videos and practice on a junk panel first.
Wrong.
#16
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Re: $50 paint job help
Wrong.
See, two can play at that game.
The OP asked that this not turn into a Rustoleum-bashing thread and I'll honor is request, but this is a forum and I'll offer my opinion.
OP can spend time and money trying to get the most out of a Rustoleum finish, and it will improve things, and the pic he posted looks bad for Rustoleum, but it still looks like Rustoleum. If he wants a finish with true depth and clarity he'll never get that with Rustoleum.
OP looks at that finish and he isn't happy. Well, it's only going to get so much better. My advice: don't polish a turd. Recognize your error, spend an extra $50 and use real paint. But if he can manage a finish that he can be happy with using Rustoleum then more power to him.
See, two can play at that game.
The OP asked that this not turn into a Rustoleum-bashing thread and I'll honor is request, but this is a forum and I'll offer my opinion.
OP can spend time and money trying to get the most out of a Rustoleum finish, and it will improve things, and the pic he posted looks bad for Rustoleum, but it still looks like Rustoleum. If he wants a finish with true depth and clarity he'll never get that with Rustoleum.
OP looks at that finish and he isn't happy. Well, it's only going to get so much better. My advice: don't polish a turd. Recognize your error, spend an extra $50 and use real paint. But if he can manage a finish that he can be happy with using Rustoleum then more power to him.
#17
Honda-Tech Member
Re: $50 paint job help
You said rustoleum looks dull. That is wrong. When buffed out it looks great. No it doesn't out shine real multi stage auto paint but no one expects it to.
Rustoleum gloss white properly cut and buffed:
http://www.mouseattack.org/pics/crx/paint/paint10.jpg
http://www.mouseattack.org/pics/crx/paint/paint11.jpg
http://www.mouseattack.org/pics/crx/paint/paint12.jpg
Rustoleum gloss white properly cut and buffed:
http://www.mouseattack.org/pics/crx/paint/paint10.jpg
http://www.mouseattack.org/pics/crx/paint/paint11.jpg
http://www.mouseattack.org/pics/crx/paint/paint12.jpg
#18
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Re: $50 paint job help
If you have more to say to me you can do it in PM. I'm not going to sully this thread with a pissing contest.
Back on topic:
You've given the OP some good advice for salvaging rustoleum paint jobs. I've given the OP some advice on how to proceed if he's really not happy with the finish he's going to be getting. He's got the information and he can make up his own mind.
#19
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Re: $50 paint job help
FYI - rustoleum makes a clear. What i would do is primer, sand, respray, shoot the clear, then cut and buff. Do it right and it would look great.
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