Nikos

The setup

k24a block
89mm sleeves INLINEPRO
IPS 8620 K2 mark2 cams
IPS JE 12.5:1 compression pistons
IB SPEC RODS k24a I beam
SSR HEADER FOR K20a2 motors 4-2-1
STOCK RBC with karcepts ADAPTER
STOCK THROTTLE BODY
Karcepts Intake
STOCK 99mm crank
STOCK 2006 Civic Si head
SUPERTECH spings, titanium retainers, keepers with SUPERTECH FLAT FACE VALVES

So here we go


Here's the k24a longblock


We continue by taking out everything from the accord head, rockers, cams, cam gear so that we can get access to the head bolts


We also need to remove the crank pulley using a moroso crank pulley holder or something similar



To remove the head we also have to remove the chain cover by taking out all the small bolts that hold the chain cover together


Don't forget the 3 bolts that connect the oil pan with the chain cover


Once all bolts are removed, you remove the chain cover by forcing it to get unstuck from the block


here;s some of the chain cover bolts, notice the 2 longer bolts



Here's the k24a4 Accord motor without the head




Once we have the block apart from the head, we need to take out the oil pan, again by removing all the bolts that hold the oil pan and getting it unstuck from the block



An engine stand is good and recommended but I was in a hurry to send the block to get sleeved to inlinepro

Next, we take the bolts out the hold the k24 accord oil pump


Here's the block without the oil pump



No you see how the rod bolts are sticking out on cylinder 1 and 4? I am go ahead and remove all the rod bolts with the crank girdle and crank still attached on the block.. This way I save time and during shipping the crank cannot get damaged in the box apart from the block

Just have to be careful not to hurt the cylinder walls when removing the rods with the pistons attached..




Block is ready to get sleeved or otherwise go the machine shop for a simple hone


So after 1 month, I drove to inlinepro to pick it up along with a new 2006 Civic Si head with supertech valvetrain and retainers and flat faced valves.


































So time to get this running...


We use a soft surface or an engine stand to work on the sleeved block



This hole passed oil to the k24a accord oil pump.. We need to shut it or else we are going to be missing out on a lot of oil pressure


Put some liquid high heat gasket or honda bond






We find a bolt that can be threaded and put it once.. Don;t try to thread it in and then take it out again.. Just find one that fits and go for it



Make sure the bolt you are going to use can make it out of the windage tray



Install the rest of the bolts to hold the tray



Time to install the type s pump and secure it


Ok, time to get the chains going... so...

we attach the first chain guide



slide in the chain gear that goes on the crank along with the 2 chain tensioners.. Notice on this pic there is only one so I had to order the other one...



Once the oil pump chain is installed, it is time to install the flywheel and clutch so that we can attach the tranny

Here's where we will attach the flywheel and install the ring... Notice the ring.. it has to be pushed inside



be sure to use the correct manual tranny flywheel botls that are longer than the auto bolts..



You have to prevent the flywheel from turning.. You can use something in the holes of the flywheel or you can put a wrench on the other side on the crank pulley bolt to prevent it from turning..

here's the clutch CLUTCHMASTERS STAGE 3





have to make sure it is aligned with the hole in the crank. There is a clutch alignment tool that comes with the hit or you can use anything that can git in that hole while you are attaching the clutch on the flywheel



Installt the new bearing that comes with the clutch kit as well



make sure the dowel pins are installed on the block before you attempt to attach the tranny





Here';s the tranny ready to go in



It will need some pushing but eventually it will go in



Secure it with the tranny bolts


Time for the gasket and more dowel pins





locate the head



and put it on...



Torque the head bolts according to the helms manual

install rocker assembly



dont forget the lost motion springs



Lube the head to accept the cams



Lock the tensioner



install it locked




assembly lube on the cams as well



Securing the cams with the cam caps to spec OEM tq spec




Time to set the chain



at the lower part, we need to make sure it is right on time



look closer for the arrow pointing at the dot (dot has small amount of paint on top of it)



block was missing this bolt, so I had to take it out my other block and put it there



back to the chain

secure the chain guide of the head



and the head and the block on the other side



Finally installed the new oil chain tensioner as well



align the chain on the cam gears...

Notice how on the k24 chain, there are 2 grey links in between each of the 2 cam gear dots



Once all dots are lined up with their marks, release the tensioner to keep timing where it is at



Just to make sure everything is ok.. rotate the crank a few times and observe a long rod or long screw driver that you can enter in cylinder 1 to see where the engine is at TDC in reference to the cam gear lines.



Once all is good, chain cover back on with plenty of honda bond where it has to go according to HELMS manual



Install knock sensor, starter and get ready to attach water pump + housing





Attach CRV side bracket.. Notice one bolt is longer than the other 2






Attach hasport mounts on motor and tranny and make sure everything is torque to spec and place on a small paller with some wheels to drag around




attach and drop





to be continued and edited further with more details for:

-wiring
-grounding
-fueling
-water cooling
-attaching and aligning mounts
-tuning
-troubleshooting

Thanks for reading,

Nikos

PS Post questions or concerns so I can edit or add so that we can have a complete GUIDE FOR DUMMIES

lollypopking

nice write up nikos. Why were you sleeving the block? planning something beyond the capabilities of the stock apparently! how much power do you think you'll make?

Nikos

This motor already was dynoed

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2159460

It needs bigger cams, bigger header and bigger intake.. lol but I can't say I am not happy with the way it drives.

This was short of a development motor for some research I am doing about stock sleeves vs aftermarket, 87mm bore vs 89mm bore and so on.. I have plenty of data now to support some of my views and beliefs.. I am not finished. I am looking into doing a non vtec k24a and trying to make the same power and also comparing different setups etc...

lollypopking

damn, 265 whp and 215 ft-lbs. I'd be happy with it too. What are ultimate goals for your research? or is it just to prove your own hypothesis about the bore/sleeve relationship in these k motors? what do you believe by the way?

Nikos

I believe that the K series motors are superior to the older series that can be used in hybrid swaps. As far as bore, we have to take stroke and compression into account and look at the difference of power...

i can tell you also that what applies to a B or H, doesnt always stay true for a K series.

Every setup has a optimal setting no matter the bore, stroke or compression. That is what tuning is about.. Not simply playing with software on the dyno during a dyno session

2fast4u831

good stuff man next year!

88ED8

good info

BlueIntegraBoy

iTrader: (5)

Nikos, I love your K-series write-ups. Very thorough.

lollypopking

Hey nikos, got a few clarification questions for ya.
1) You used the RBC intake manifold to be able to use a mechanical throttle body right? Is there any other reason?

2) Isn't there a coolant jacket in the side of the intake manifold/head that needed to the plug/welded? Or was that on the k24a head? Or did the karcepts adapter kit eliminate that problem?

3) I've never been that familiar with aftermarket cams, but the IPS K2 cams seem to be the common choice for many built k series motors, why is that? what is so good about them?

Thanks

Nikos

1) the rbc is the best OEM manifold for both 2 litre and 2.4L applications. It is good for around 290whp dynojet max.

2) the civic si head 2006+ has that same coolant jacket as found in the TSX head , accord head. The crv head doesn;t have it like the k20a2 rsx type s head doesn;t have it.

if you are using a head like a k20a2 head and you want to use the RBC you can cut that part.. reallly simple

3)To answer why the IPS k2 cams are good we have to get into a deep discusion about what makes a good cam.. design, powerband, quality, engineering etc,.... I would suggest you read on http://www.intrinsicperformance.com for more information about them. This motor could use bigger cams for sure but that is what I had available at this time and I don;t have to worry about valve to piston contact

MJ23FE

Great write up Nikos, as always!

-Jalal

George Knighton

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nikos &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

3)To answer why the IPS k2 cams are good we have to get into a deep discusion....</TD></TR></TABLE>

Can you give us the Readers Digest Condensed Version?

Nikos

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by George Knighton &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Can you give us the Readers Digest Condensed Version?</TD></TR></TABLE>


Of course George, anything for you!

The IPS cams are good due to 2 main reasons... The manufacturing process and the engineering.

As far as the manufacturing process, the material is superior... billet steel 8620, where each set is ground to spec... It's not like the factory is making 100 set of cams and pilling them on top of each other to get them out the same day...

Like this



no.... that is not how IPS cams are made...

they are made one by one to spec to insure the highest quality... the roundness, the dowel pin, everything is just ground as close to spec as possible...

Now, all this great process would be useless if the engineering was not up to par....

So the engineering behind these cams takes into consideration the relationship between the cam profile design and the spring that controls valve motion.

Here are some parameters from the battery of tests and calculations involved:


-analyze round and elliptical wire spring scenario
-perform harmonic analysis predicting when the cam profile will cause spring surge
-predict the rpms at which the springs will surge and valves will float
-find the minimum gap between the provided and required spring force curves
-determine the spring's installed height to get maximum rpms
-predict excessive cam/lifter wear from spring forces
-determine wire stresses, natural frequencies, harmonic numbers
-force vs. height for each spring
-force vs. distance compressed with all springs of set provided vs. required spring --force around the cam lobe
-cam lift, velocity, acceleration and jerk
-lift, acceleration and jerk harmonics
-wire stress for each spring as the cam rotates
-Hertz contact stress at the cam/lifter interface
-cam lobe radius of curvature

So, I guess in simple terms, these cams are engineered to simulate valve motion that will not kill the chain or the tensioner while retaining OEM reliability.

That is why I like these cams... For this motor right here, the IPS k2 cams were really small, that motor needed bigger cams but it is really a pleasant car to drive around town. For a race car, we could get around 300whp but some of the daily drivebility under 6000 rpm would have to be sacrificed.

HickamHatch

I heard IPS are discontinued. Is this true?

Nikos

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HickamHatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I heard IPS are discontinued. Is this true?</TD></TR></TABLE>

No, IPS is alive and kicking

George Knighton

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nikos &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
That is why I like these cams... For this motor right here, the IPS k2 cams were really small, that motor needed bigger cams but it is really a pleasant car to drive around town. For a race car, we could get around 300whp but some of the daily drivebility under 6000 rpm would have to be sacrificed.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Do you mind if I ask how these cams compare to the OEM Honda K20A(*) DC5 ITR cams?

MJ23FE

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HickamHatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I heard IPS are discontinued. Is this true?</TD></TR></TABLE>
http://www.intrinsicperformance.com


-Jalal

EATIN UP UR BSERIES

great write -up NIKOS..

xtreme26

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by George Knighton &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Do you mind if I ask how these cams compare to the OEM Honda K20A(*) DC5 ITR cams?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Would also like to know too.

RotiEatter

iTrader: (1)

Sweet thread. Nice pictures and everything is well explained.

91' LS-VTEC

great write-up. You need to print these in book form.

JDM JEFFREY

iTrader: (1)

nice build

tommykair21

Hi guys this is a very important question for me.

i bought a act flywheel, i'm going to install the flywheel in my k20a3 but i just find out that my act flywheel doesn't have the a locking hole located in the crank.

tommykair21

by the way this is one of the best k24 project i had ever seen.


Modified by tommykair21 at 4:43 PM 1/11/2008

ninethree-civic

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tommykair21 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">by the way this is one of the best k24 project i had ever seen.


Modified by tommykair21 at 4:43 PM 1/11/2008</TD></TR></TABLE>

haha then i suggest you vist his website k20a.org...............crazy **** over there