please critique these faq's

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03-29-2004, 08:07 PM

-KangaRod-

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please critique these faq's

B18B1 into 5g civic
cheap
available
easy
still decent power (getting rid of the D)
parts easy to come by
keep the motor if it is a D16Z6
take special care of the evaporative purge valve (on the IM) when dropping the motor, you can use silicone spray to protect it
from auto: pedal assembly; hydraulic lines; shift linkage; clutch master and slave cylinder; weld on tranny mount bracket - rewire neutral safety switch and clutch switch
use the integra throttle cable - it is a bit longer
front stablizer mount is from 94+ Integra (stock civic rubber)
power steering 94+ Integra
a/c 94-97 Del Sol VTEC

K20A2 into 7g Civic SiR hatchback
direct bolt in swap
aside from the intake manifold, the stock motor is identical to the base model RSX
2.4 litre potential?
immobilizer (docs and car to Honda to have a key progammed)
very similar to the K20A3 in the base RSX and SiR
same bore/stroke, block, valves and intake manifold - however many parts inside are different
K20A2 has 11:1 pistons, dual valve springs, aluminum oil pan (stamped steel + oil cooler on A3), tri-y header with larger primaries, i-VTEC with more agressive cams, traditional VTEC, hydraulic ps (vs electric on SiR)
SiR shifter cables hook to the transmission, the mechanism will need to be notched to reach 6-speed reverse
larger bearing on the RSX to suport intermediate shaft (larger splines)
you can bolt the Civic's idler pully to simplify the conversion
A2 has coolant to oil heat exchanger at base of oil filter
need to fab a new exhaust
SiR doesn't have wiring for reverse lockout solenoid
ECU ground leads are different aswell
use the RSX harness and ECU
Removing and replacing the engine is bolt in and out
The Si ECU will run the car so you can drive it to a dealer (tempory solution)

D16A1 into 3g Civic
very cheap
good aftermarket suspension options
very light
a/c can be retained
cheaper to buy an entire wrecked Integra
JDM motor has a bit more power
make sure your civic is an Si
1978 lbs - CRX Si, 2044 lbs - Civic Si
front brakes interchangeable with 88-91 Civic DX
rear discs from 88-89 Integra
make sure brown top if you go JDM ZC
no aftermarket mounts or wiring required (even retain ecu if necessary)
very simple
Integra shifter, linkage, emission, MAP, clutch, throttle cable, hubs
a/c head will hit sight glass and rear filler valve unless flip the mounting bracket and bend the lines
Civic left front engine mount; and downpipe (not header)
clutch (pressure plate; 223-pd2-030, friction disc; 22200-pg7-003, release bearing; 22810-pc8-921)
timing belt (14400-pg6-014)
water pump (pump;19210-pg6-305, gasket; 19222-pg6-000)
check front and rear oil seals
use Integra rear engine mount bracket (it is stiffer)
bit of fab required on left front engine mount - remove the front steel upper gusset or timing cover will hit
Integra knuckles, hubs and axles
Integra ECU and emission control box (ECB)
GRN / WHT wire used IAC in Civic ECB -rrt to back of Integra intake manifold
change the pin to the square yellow connector on the cabin harness
rrt the cold start timing advance and purge cutoff solenoid valve wires to the Integra ECB along with MAP sensor wiring
use the Integra harness but you will have to switch the wires for the backup lights to the temp and oil idiot light sensors
Integra MAP (Integra plug)- _RED__ | _WHT__ | BRW/WHT - change RED to RED, WHT to WHT/RED, BRN/WHT to BRN/WHT

Integra ECB - ______ | RED/WHT | ______ -change RED/WHT to RED/WHT, BRN/WHT to BRN/WHT
BLK/YEL | WHT/YEL | ______

Passenger side engine - GRN/BLK | BLK/WHT | WHT/BLU | BLK/YEL -change GRN/BLK with YEL/GRN, YEL with YEL/RED
harness plug __YEL__ | YEL/GRN | YEL/RED | __BLU_

Integra down pipe is too long; use the Civic one, or 88-91 Civic header and exhaust shop fab (cat will be clogged?) + new cat back?
Civic lower rad hose, Integra upper (19501-pg6-010)
Integra clutch cable (22910-se7-671)

H22A1 into 4g/5g Accord
H22 swap 385 lbs (roughly 45-65 lbs heavier)
earlier chassis will save 100 lbs
earlier chassis needs (60831-sm4-300zz) if auto - right side engine mount bracket
stay clear of V6 Accords, they have a longer nose (used as touring cars)
VTEC Accord no bigge (wiring not much)
94-95 Accord = 94-95 Prelude
96-97 Accord = 94-95 Prelude
all H22 and H23 tranny have the same ratio
avoid H22A4 and M2U4 (ATTS from Prelude SH)
Prelude parts you will need; engine, trans (if you want), all mounts, ECU, engine wiring harness, half shafts, all accessories, drive brackets, ps pump, alternator, cat, downpipe, header, fuel rail (from 97+ Prelude; 16610-pt3-a00), rad hose, heater hose, throttle cable (for non cruise applications)
Accord tranny will bolt up if necessary, but taller final drive (ratios same)
JDM = 5hp + LSD (if sourced)
look through output splines to see through for LSD
auto = 180 hp (don't buy without tranny and ECU)
left side mount needs cutting
Accord front mount
Accord or Prelude rt tranny, but Prelude stiffer
Prelude or Accord rear bracket and mount (but don't mix)
oil pressure sender - Accord plug, but extended 5 inches
EACV is on middle of fuel rail on H22, near TPS on F22 - move YEL/BLK and BLU/YEL to centre of the injector harness
VSS plug moved to from front to back near O2 - same wires, different location
coil, EGR, fan switch need lengthening - change from Accord 3 pin square to Prelude round (same pins) - coil to dizzy
extend IAT sender (RED/YEL + GRN/WHT) to fit
no VTEC? no knock sensor (RED/BLU) same brake out as oil pressure sending wire using pigtail subharness @ pin A17
VTEC oil pressure on EX, otherwise SKY to D6, BLK/RED to ground
VTEC solenoid GRN/YEL pin A4
switch EGR solenoid valve and O2 sensor heater wire (pin 6 and 11)
engine accessories all H22 except a/c - napa - 25-060425 works good
ps line from Accord will be recobbled to fit Prelude pump (3 inch).
high pressure in ps system (400x oil pressure system) use braise or weld
Accord MAP on tb, Prelude MAP on firewall
Accord tb if you need cruise control, but Prelude is bigger
Accord cable if Accord tb, Prelude cable if Prelude tb
need to fab a bracket if sticking with Accord
Prelude or Accord axles, Prelude are stronger
Accords inner cv joint has a spindled shaft that engages an internally splined section of the half shaft
Prelude assembly has male splin on the half shaft that engages cv joint casing
Prelude axle ok in Accord hub
Prelude header and down many ok on 90-93 Accord exhaust
Prelude SH header on 94-97 Accord exhaust
vacuum on h22 = vacuum on f22
Accord rubber fuel line is on oppossite side (use 97+ prelude fuel rail)
use heater hose from a 96 Prelude, longer
Accord rad is the same as JDM y0!
stock 5-speed is big enough, but auto is better (rad)
rev to 8200 (fair enough - you're the boss Rodney)

JDM B16A SiR I into 5g Civic
cheap alternative to some of the larger swaps (H22/B18/K20)
very simple and easy swap
no shifter modifications, and wiring is easy
ps and a/c are possible to retain
light when compared to H-series (only 100 lbs heavier than stock)
double wishbones at all 4 corners
lot of racing history = lots of aftermarket parts
a mount kit or fabrication will be required for 89-91 Civic (5-million) and 90-93 Integras (1-million) - the tranny will not work without modification
Integra trannies (Y1's) have shorter final
Civic trannies have closer gears and can be sourced with LSD
B16A2 and B16A3 = 160 hp
JDM B16A SiR I (89-92) = 160 hp, JDM B16A SiR II (92-00) = 170 hp
later models = grey electrial connectors, early models = white electrial connectors
B16A3 or hydro B16A SiR II is recommended, but an A2 or OBD-2 can work
VX, Si and EX all have VTEC - so wiring will be easier
VX is the only one with EGR
Si and EX had larger front brakes, and Si had 4 wheel discs
HASport part # m92-b16-10 includes mounts for early gen b16's and hydro to cable conversion
rear bracket; 94 Integra
rear engine mount; 97 Del Sol VTEC
distributor; 94-95 VTEC Del Sol or 92-95 Integra GsR
speedometer drive unit; 92 civic
ps mounting bracket, pump, hoses, pully; 94-95 Del Sol VTEC
clutch; 90-91 Integra (disc; 22200-pr3-030, pressure plate; 22300-pr4-020, throw out; 22810-ps1-015)
timing belt; 94-97 Del Sol VTEC (14400-pr3-004)
water pump; 94-97 Del Sol VTEC (19200-p30-003)
upper and lower rad hose; 94-95 Del Sol VTEC
thermostat housing; 94 Integra (19311-p2t-000)
linkage and shifter; 94 Integra GsR (54201-st7-r00 & 54301-sr3-g00)
MAP sensor; 92-95 Civic (37830-pr3-003)
throttle cable; 90-93 Integra (17910-sr3-l01)
high impedence fuel injectors from 92-95 Integra or Civic
a/c compressor bracket; 94-95 Del Sol VTEC
remove the distributor and throttle body when pulling or dropping any motor
the hood can go totally vertical (pulling it isn't totally necessary)
axles; 90-93 integra (5 million requires half shaft aswell)
wire in 1 4 wire O2 vs 2 1 wire O2
change reverse light sensor (on tranny wire bundle) and replace with reverse-light electrical sensor from Civic tranny
A6 ORG/BLK (also run GRN/WHT from ground to O2; and 12 volt power source into o2) + D14 WHT to heated O2 , A4 GRN/YEL to VTEC solenoid valve, D3 RED/BLU to knock sensor, D6 BLU/BLK to VTEC oil pressure (also run ground from VTEC oil pressure)
you will need to extend some other wires aswell - test and fit
an A3 or A2 header will bolt onto the stock exhaust
new exhaust? (2 or 2 1/4 mandrel bent)

B18A1 into 4g Civic

Quote:

Originally Posted by wpgcivic

MPFI wiring
Engine:
Connect the yellow wire on the DPFI harness to the brown wire on the injector plug for the #1 cylinder.
Connect the red wire on the DPFI harness to the blue wire on the injector plug for the #3 cylinder.
Run the red wire on one of the injector plugs to ECU pin A3 for the #2 injector. I usually like to run this wire into the pass side engine-to-car plug (big white one) then do the other side when I do the interior wiring.
Run the yellow wire on one of the injector plugs to ECU pin A7 for the #4 injector. I usually like to run this wire into the pass side engine-to-car plug (big white one) then do the other side when I do the interior wiring.
Connect the 2 yellow/black wires on the DPFI harness (from the old injectors) the yellow/black wire on the injector resistor plug.
If you cut the injector plugs off the injector resistor plug then you have to reconnect the red/black wires on the resistor plug to the injector plugs.
De-pin the Distributor plug from the MPFI harness (except the blue green and blue/yellow wires. Cut those as you will use them later) and WRITE DOWN which color wires went where. Then de-pin the DPFI distributor plug and put the MPFi plug on your DPFI harness. Make sure the colors are the match up to what you wrote down. There are 2 white colored wires and they can easily be mixed up. So make sure the white wire that is a "loner" (not in a group of 4) is a "loner" when you re-pin the MPFI plug (I need some pics, heh).
Run the blue/green wire on the dist plug to ECU pin C1 for the cylinder position sensor. I usually like to run this wire into the pass side engine-to-car plug (big white one) then do the other side when I do the interior wiring.
Run the blue/yellow wire on the dist plug to ECU pin C2 for the cylinder position sensor. I usually like to run this wire into the pass side engine-to-car plug (big white one) then do the other side when I do the interior wiring.
Lengthen the TPS and IACV wires. Also, you need to swap the green/white and yellow/white wires on the TPS plug as the MPFI throttle bodies rotate in the opposite direction of the DPFi ones.
ECU plugs:
Connect the orange wire on C1 to pin B10. You can either de-pin C1 and swap it over or cut C1 and solder it onto a wire you put in B10.
Connect the white wire on C2 to pin B12. You can either de-pin C2 and swap it over or cut C2 and solder it onto a wire you put in B12.
Run a wire from C1 to the blue/green wire on the dist. If you ran the blue/green wire into the pass side plug then this is very easy.
Run a wire from C2 to the blue/yellow wire on the dist. If you ran the blue/yellow wire into the pass side plug then this is very easy.
Cut the wire at A3 and run a wire from A3 to the red wire on the #2 injector plug. If you ran the red injector wire into the pass side plug then this is very easy.
Cut the wire at A7 and run a wire from A7 to the yellow wire on the #4 injector plug. If you ran the yellow injector wire into the pass side plug then this is very easy.
If you are more the visual type then this is for you. (Big thanks to evilxkid for letting me use this).
VTEC wiring
If you gotta b16, b18c, or ls/vtec and are running a PR3 or PW0 you have to wire for VTEC. This is VERY easy. The best thing to do, IMO, is to make a new harness just for the VTEC wires. I usually find a 4 or 6 pin male/female plug combo from one of the harnesses that I have and go from there. If you dont have any harnesses floating around then a junkyard will definately have one that you can pull plugs from. In the cars I've wired this plug combo resides on the clip (yes there is even a clip for this plug. They were thinking of us swap guys!) right next to the big white pass side plug. What you do is run the wires from the ECU to one end of the plug (the end that clips onto the clip), then make an engine harness with all the wires converging into the other end of the plug.
Engine harness.
Hook up the VTEC solenoid. Its a green wire with a single connector on your OBD0 VTEC harness.
Hook up the VTEC oil pressure switch. It is a 2 pin plug near the VTEC solenoid. One of the pins is for ground (the black one) and the other goes to the ECU.
Hook up the Knocksensor. This is on the back of the block and has a plug exactly like the oil pressure switch except it only uses 1 of the 2 wires in the plug. The knock sensor wire is supposed to be a shielded wire so use a shielded wire.
Hook up the 2nd O2 sensor. Yes you need it. It is also supposed to be a shielded wire.
Car harness.
Run the wires from the ECU to the plug that I talked about earlier and make sure the wires match up.
Pin Function
A8 VTEC solenoid
B5 VTEC oil pressure switch
B19 Knocksensor
C8 Second oxygen sensor

very similar to B16A swap, but more affordable, more torque, and ability to add VTEC later
HF CRX (not valid for Canada) will need Si hubs, non-Si will need to convert to Multi-point
use an 90-91 B18A1, it is much easier to deal with a pre-OBD engine, aswell the clutch is cable operated
A/C is possible
you will need a mount kit, different axles, and different/modified shift linkage
you will need from Integra; engine, distributor, alternator, transmission, and intermediate shaft
you can use the wiring harness and injector resistor pack aswell if it is a non si
use the small left hand mount bracket and large rear engine mount bracket (from the Integra)in combination with a mount kit
bang a dent in the drivers side frame rail to allow clearance for the alternator pully
depending on mount kit, the rear cross member may need to be modified
cut and weld the integra linkage 2-3/8" shorter, or buy an aftermarket one
use the civic speedometer cable drive in the teg tranny
use the throttle cable from a 90-91 integra
upper and lower rad hose (90-91 integra)
the alternator belt needs to be 1" shorter than the Integra one
you will need a new intake pipe if your car was dual point
reverse the two output wires on the tps connector
an injector resistor box from an Si or an Integra will be needed
use the Integra MAP sensor and bracket, purge cutoff solenoid valve and fuel pressure regulator cutoff solenoid
a small pipe can help getting the new wiring through the firewall
Integra axles will work, but are slightly long, and will have to remove the dust housing
the stock downpipe will work the the Integra a-pipe and bolt up to the stock exhaust
consider an aftermarket exhaust however