.BigSexy

Im looking to do the f22 crankshaft swap into my h22 prelude, to give it a longer stroke and more displacement. Now from what I have read/heard, it is just a complete changeover...rods and crank. But are aftermarket f22 rods needed? What main and rod bearings should be used? I did some digging around and the diamete of the rod journal on both engines, are both 1.888(inches I presume) and the diameter of the main journals on both engines are 50 mm. So in theory, I should be able to go to honda, and buy either h22 bearings or f22 bearings, and have either work right?

any insight is appreciated....

.BigSexy

anyone?

AWOC

any h- series bearings will work. ive done this setup many times, and you can either go with oem or ACL

.BigSexy

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AWOC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">any h- series bearings will work. ive done this setup many times, and you can either go with oem or ACL </TD></TR></TABLE>

are you sure about this??

the h22a4 has larger diameter main journals and rod journals...

AWOC

you asked for h22 not h22a4 did you not????????? yes the h22a4 are bigger, stay with 92-96 version, and yes im f****ing sure

.BigSexy

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AWOC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you asked for h22 not h22a4 did you not????????? yes the h22a4 are bigger, stay with 92-96 version, and yes im f****ing sure </TD></TR></TABLE>

right..but you said ANY h-series bearings would work, meaning the h22a4 bearings would work as well...just trying to clarify things

.BigSexy

also when you did this, did you have any valve clearance problems?

what pistons did you use? what rods did you use? aftermarket or OEM?

vtecspeed1320

if you use f22 crank which is 95mm stroke, you can use factory f22 rods with h22 pistons, but im not sure how or if your gonna find an f22 crank with 55mm mains. f23 cranks have 55mm mains..you talk about some stroke but you will also want some special made pistons, etc etc...and use h22 rods. On the special made pistons the compression height would have to be 25mm if i remember correctly good luck. And always clay your motor.

.BigSexy

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtecspeed1320 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you use f22 crank which is 95mm stroke, you can use factory f22 rods with h22 pistons, but im not sure how or if your gonna find an f22 crank with 55mm mains. f23 cranks have 55mm mains..you talk about some stroke but you will also want some special made pistons, etc etc...and use h22 rods. On the special made pistons the compression height would have to be 25mm if i remember correctly good luck. And always clay your motor.</TD></TR></TABLE>

im using an f22a crank with my JDM h22a block, not the USDM h22a4....

and yes, I will have the motor clayed...

to anyone has done this, have you have valve clearance issues?

NICEHATCH

I'm looking into this hybrid project as well. I have located an F22/H23 crank to fit on my JDM H22 motor. I was told that the F22/H23 cranks are extremely weak and do spin a bearing @ higher rpm's due to the in-ability to rev high like that of the H22 crank. I was told that a simple solution to this problem would be to have the crank balanced and micro-polished.

Here is an interesting topic:[URL]https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?&id=1625652[URL]

I was told that when dealing with the F22/H23 crank in the H22 motor setup you have to allocate the proper bearings to the proper journals or so it was stated to me. Someone please clarify for me if possible! How do you affiliate a specific journal to a bearing.

Please if anyone who has dealt with this swap can provide feedback on this issue it would be much appreciated.

.BigSexy

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NICEHATCH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm looking into this hybrid project as well. I have located an F22/H23 crank to fit on my JDM H22 motor. I was told that the F22/H23 cranks are extremely weak and do spin a bearing @ higher rpm's due to the in-ability to rev high like that of the H22 crank. I was told that a simple solution to this problem would be to have the crank balanced and micro-polished.

Here is an interesting topic:[URL]https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?&id=1625652[URL]

I was told that when dealing with the F22/H23 crank in the H22 motor setup you have to allocate the proper bearings to the proper journals or so it was stated to me. Someone please clarify for me if possible! How do you affiliate a specific journal to a bearing.

Please if anyone who has dealt with this swap can provide feedback on this issue it would be much appreciated. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I remember seeing that thread. But as for the bearing question...in theory, the f22/h23 OEM bearings should work. f22 rods and crank, use f22 bearings. Thats what I was trying to get a definitive answer on. Also, the use of the oil squirters...

some people say remove them, others say bend them out of the way, others say that the crank can be knifedged, but I have a question....wtf is knifedging? Ive heard this term alot, and still have no clue.

The_Head

The F22 crank and rods are the same as the H23 crank and rods (same part numbers)... you can swap the F22 rotating assembly into the 92-97 H22A blocks (same as the H23 blocks). If you have a 98-01 H22A block it won't work because of the larger main bearing (55 mm)diameters.

What you will have now is an H23VTEC... so aftermarket rods will help you. The lighter rotating mass will allow the motor to survive higher rpms. Micropolishing, balancing and knifeedging the crank will help too... but the crank isn't designed for the higher revs that the H22 crank can do, so beware. You can rev it to H22 levels, you just can't do it all the damn time.

HTH

My setup uses the F23A crank (55 mm mains) & F23A rods... which is even worse for high rpms. But, I've had a few things done to make sure the motor doesn't grenade on me, and I won't be taking it that high, probably 7500 rpms max... I didnt go this route for high rpm power anyways, I wanted something with alot of low & mid range torque.

.BigSexy

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by The_Head &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The F22 crank and rods are the same as the H23 crank and rods (same part numbers)... you can swap the F22 rotating assembly into the 92-97 H22A blocks (same as the H23 blocks). If you have a 98-01 H22A block it won't work because of the larger main bearing (55 mm)diameters.

What you will have now is an H23VTEC... so aftermarket rods will help you. The lighter rotating mass will allow the motor to survive higher rpms. Micropolishing, balancing and knifeedging the crank will help too... but the crank isn't designed for the higher revs that the H22 crank can do, so beware. You can rev it to H22 levels, you just can't do it all the damn time.

HTH

My setup uses the F23A crank (55 mm mains) & F23A rods... which is even worse for high rpms. But, I've had a few things done to make sure the motor doesn't grenade on me, and I won't be taking it that high, probably 7500 rpms max... I didnt go this route for high rpm power anyways, I wanted something with alot of low & mid range torque.</TD></TR></TABLE>

well the max I rev mine now is right around 7500, and really nothing more. I have taken it to 8000 once, but not often.

I know it wont fir in the post 1997 h22a4, but I have a JDM h22a...so I do have 50 mm mains,

what does micropolishing, balancing, and knifeedging the crank do to it?

Thanks for all the replies guys...

also, what to do about the oil squiters? are they really in the way of the crank...

AWOC

the squirters will work fine. just bend them out of the way.


go to the prelude section and look up h23vtec topic, thers lots of things for you to see there too

.BigSexy

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AWOC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the squirters will work fine. just bend them out of the way.


go to the prelude section and look up h23vtec topic, thers lots of things for you to see there too</TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks!

vtecspeed1320

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NICEHATCH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm looking into this hybrid project as well. I have located an F22/H23 crank to fit on my JDM H22 motor. I was told that the F22/H23 cranks are extremely weak and do spin a bearing @ higher rpm's due to the in-ability to rev high like that of the H22 crank. I was told that a simple solution to this problem would be to have the crank balanced and micro-polished.

Here is an interesting topic:[URL]https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?&id=1625652[URL]

I was told that when dealing with the F22/H23 crank in the H22 motor setup you have to allocate the proper bearings to the proper journals or so it was stated to me. Someone please clarify for me if possible! How do you affiliate a specific journal to a bearing.

Please if anyone who has dealt with this swap can provide feedback on this issue it would be much appreciated. </TD></TR></TABLE>ummm has nothing to do with the crank being weak...and no the cranks arent weak...h23's and f22's have the worst r/s that honda made...maybe besides the f23...thats why they spin bearings. And like i think i might have mentioned...im not sure you can get a 55mm main f22/h23 crank and if you do its gonna be pretty tough. The f23 crank which is 97mm is 55mm mains. good luck.

ExplicitSpeed360

I'll post this in here from my other post in a other thread with similar topic...don't flame just my 2 cents...


Honda/Acura's have tight tolerances for bearings, with that said the h23 vtec it's even more crucial. I would say on the safe side would to get it balanced. You will need to bend the oil squirters. I think they are necessary for longer lasting engine. I was planing to use ARP rod bolts with the f22 crank and rods. GSR 9mm rod bolts will work on the rod I do believe. From an h22 I believe the GSR 9mm rod bolt hangs about 1/4" longer which may be/may not be a problem for clearance when you drop everything in. The pistons will stick out of the hole .020. thats .026 above stock. Since the piston from factory is .06 in the hole. I wouldn't chance reving it too much past 7500-8k rpm. I can't see agressive cams lasting too long with the engine. If you want to use agressive cams might want to use aftermarket rods and pistons maybe...which would require a proper honda hone...if you did want to use agressive cams a thicker head gasket may be a good idea...for added valve to piston clearance...for a race motor that isn't ran often/last long you can get away cheapily...

last thing would be to have a good engine builder...build it...if you are out of your league...

I am not sure exactly haven't paid much attention but some stroker Co's don't like the H23 cranks I am not sure if it's the strength factor and not a good platform to start with what I do know is people are using the h22 cranks for welded up strokers...and is the crank to be desired...

.BigSexy

would you recomend sleeving the block? yes, thicker head gasket is in play...


I didnt realize ARP rod bolts were longer than the stock rod bolts. are you talking of doing the h23Vtec or the f22 crank in h22 block? do you think a shorter rod should be put to the test for more valve to piston clearance? since I am going to run aftermarket rods and pistons as well, although I thought about just sticking with the type S pistons I already have.

good info here guys, keep it up

vtecspeed1320

if you use your type s pistons with f22 crank, h22 rods, you will stick out of the whole to much and be somewhere in the 13-14:1 c/r

.BigSexy

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtecspeed1320 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you use your type s pistons with f22 crank, h22 rods, you will stick out of the whole to much and be somewhere in the 13-14:1 c/r

</TD></TR></TABLE>

holy ****!! so...what pistons would u recomend?


aftermarket?

ExplicitSpeed360

type S slugs and .050 head gasket will get you 11.4-1 compression I would go that route if you use agressive cams...atleast aftermarket rods would be a good ideal and it will already have the arp bolts in them or just as strong...just gotta find someone that makes the f22/h23 aftermarket rod...

at the least:
balance,bend oil squirters, arp rod bolts, h23/f22 crank and rods, type s slugs and OEM rings, honda rod bearings,
more insurance:
balance, bend oil squirters, aftermarket rod and pistons mahle gold series, whatever bearings the rod manufacture recommends...

vtecspeed1320

i think its crower that makes aftermarket h23 rods, 714 for a set...already searched it when doing my build. If your gonna use h23 rods and your type s yes you will get the 11.4 c/r but if you use type s's on your h22 rods with h23 crank you will have 13-14:1 c/r...if you want you can use some mahle 9:1's for the turbo application h22 rods i.e. eagles 350 bux or whatever they cost and thicker than stock headgasket, and be in teh 11.7-12:1 c/r which is streetable.

.BigSexy

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtecspeed1320 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i think its crower that makes aftermarket h23 rods, 714 for a set...already searched it when doing my build. If your gonna use h23 rods and your type s yes you will get the 11.4 c/r but if you use type s's on your h22 rods with h23 crank you will have 13-14:1 c/r...if you want you can use some mahle 9:1's for the turbo application h22 rods i.e. eagles 350 bux or whatever they cost and thicker than stock headgasket, and be in teh 11.7-12:1 c/r which is streetable.</TD></TR></TABLE>

no no...I was talking about the f22/h23 rod, there is aconsiderable length difference with the h22 and f22/h23 rod...

Im looking for something streetable...but stout as well. I will run more aggressive cams, like some crower stage 2's. A thicker headgasket will be necessary right??

vtecspeed1320

yeah bserious here on ht, has a write up on what they did... took a stock motor and laid down so much power, then changed over internals and gained a **** load of power...

ExplicitSpeed360

for a race engine, there is a lot of corners you can cut...and it doesn't have to last long...

but what I said above pertains to trying to be reliable...streetable...