UPDATE 19 OCT 2011 - Will update pics and the new format this weekend!
<FONT SIZE="3">UPDATED 11 Jan 2007 - Switched all pictures to iServe. Hope it all helps you all. For more info/pics, feel free to PM me.</FONT>
Okay, I made a huge huge post in the EG thread about merging the prelude and civic engine harness to wire up your own H22A adapted EG harness, now time for a complete write up. I made a write up about 1 1/2 years ago and sent them personally to those who requested it, but now information has blown up and now it will be search encouraged.
Please note, all pics and such were taken by me, unless otherwise notified (and credited to). If you post pictures, please take the credit you have shown for helping out! Thanks
<FONT SIZE="4">Others PLEASE feed information that you have! Very strongly encouraged! Especially EK OBD2 information!</FONT>
(for the record R&R remove & replace)
- R&R (remove and replace) Spark Plugs
- Remove Exhaust Manifold (header) & clean exhaust ports (we all want a clean motor don't we?
- R&R Timing Belt
- R&R Water Pump
- Remove stock mounts & Transmission Studs (may not need to be done with other mount kit, it will depend on what your mount kit requires)
- Remove stock H22A Power Steering & A/C
- Remove Throttle Body (to prevent damage to TPS while installing)
- Move Fuel filter towards battery in Civic engine bay and bolt in.
- Remove and mark (with masking tape) EVERY harness connector on where it came from/what it is & remove engine harness from H22A.
WIRING INFORMATION: MERGING OBD1 CIVIC HARNESS TO H22A ENGINE:
To referance to, here is a picture of the factory EG OBD1 (92-95 pinouts). For EK information, I highly encourage to post that!
This picture is from one of the old school tech sites (which I cannot remember, sorry)
- Take off and mark every
single harness connector on where it came from/where it goes from both H22A and stock civic engine. Make sure you label them of where pulled the plug from! This will save a TON of time!
Mount Civic harness on H22A and measure/modify wire to be lengthened/changed as follows:
- Change fuel injector connectors to H22A type and add resistor pack from H22A harness to Civic harness (see diagram below)
- Extend Alternator wires to reach the H22A alternator (match the pinouts on the plug)
- Lengthen wire that goes to the starter solenoid on starter
- Attach reverse light sensor wire to the new H22A reverse light sensor wire
O2 sensor -add 3 wires to O2 sensor and follow o2 wires and change to Prelude O2 sensor connector. And wire the following:
This only applies to those who have a CX model Civic, or if you use a VX engine harness in a VX! If you have a 92-95 EX/Si/DX, this is NOT required. All OBD2 Civics also do not require this
WHT - WHT/RED wire goes to D14 which is O2 Sensor Input
BLK - ORG/BLK wire goes to A6, which is Heater Control
GRN - GRN/WHT wire goes to D22 which is Sensor Ground
BLK - YEL/BLK wire goes to A25 which is Sensor voltage (you can also splice into the power junction harness at the driver side shock tower harness)
I have taken pictures to clear up more information on the O2 sensor. I will post this tonight.
If you have a VX model
Civic, if you USE a different engine harness than the factory VX harness (such as an EX/Si, or DX engine harness), you need to perform the VX O2 sensor fix.
You can do this by simply removing the ORG/BLU wire pin from the 4th VX plug:
and moving it to the missing pin mating up with the WHT wire.
VTEC wiring: This applies to DX,LX,CX models only in 93-95! If you have any 92 model Civic, or any 92-95 EX/Si, you do NOT need to do this
There will be two available slots at the shock tower harness. You just need to simply salvage a male and female pin from an unused plug, and add the pins to the connector for the factory look.
- Add one wire from the VTEC Solenoid (grn/wht wire) to the A4 pinout at the ECU. Add the pin to the shock tower harness, and female pin at the female shock tower connector.
- Add one wire from the VTEC Oil pressure sensor (blk/blu wire) to the D6 pinout, and the other wire which is VTEC oil pressure ground. Simply splice (while soldering!) this to the thermostat ground on the engine harness.
thanks to Audiofuct for finding this mistake
Knock sensor wiring:
(mounted at the rear of the engine near the cylinder head) Do the same for the male/female pins at the shock tower harness. There will be one available slot for this. Wire this from the KS to the D3 pinout (for OBD1)
Air Intake Bypass solenoid (secondary butterflies)
- Sensor voltage to the A25 pinout (or splice into the Yel/Blk wire connector at the driver shock tower harness.
- ECU Signal leading to A17 pinout on ECU
EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) System: Applies to all model civics except VX using the VX engine harness. If you do not use the VX engine harness in a VX, then you need to do this!
- EGR lift valve solenoid - sensor voltage (A25 pinout) & ECU signal to A11
- EGR lift sensor - sensor voltage (A25 pinout), ground (D22 pinout) & ECU sensor signal to D12
EGR is only to be wired up if you also use a P13 ECU. If you use a P28, P72, etc, then the ECU does not look for the EGR and therefore the sensor will be useless. So don't waste your time if you use another ECU.
FUEL INJECTOR WIRING: If you use the factory PEAK AND HOLD injectors, you WILL need a resistor box for your application.
First of all, a resistor box looks like this:
You should have four black wires, and one red wire (or four of the same color and one different color):
Here is a diagram (thanks to Hondata):
Now time to MOUNT the engine harness on the motor! I recommend mounting the engine harness with the engine out of the car. It's much easier to route and work around. Do as follows to check and make sure everything is connected:
- Injectors first
- IACV (idle air control valve)
- IAB (secondary butter flies)
- IAT (intake air temp) sensor
- Oil pressure sensor (rear of the motor)
- Knock sensor
- TPS (Throttle Position Sensor)
- MAP sensor
- ECT (engine coolant temp) sensor
- Water temp sending unit
- VTEC Oil Pressure sensor
- VTEC solenoid
- Radiator fan switch (thermostat housing)
- Engine harness ground (10mm bolt on thermostat housing)
- ESS (electronic speed sensor)
- Reverse light sensor
: Also, to some H22's, they come with additional sensors that is not required. Mine came with a bunch that wasn't needed at all. This is one:
And you can also remove this and just connect the hose from the FPR directly to the intake manifold:
When you throw the motor in, finally, make sure the engine ground from the frame rail is grounded to the motor!
MOUNT KITS AVAILABLE:
There are dozens of H22 mount kits out by now, but the most common ones you will find around here is HASport & HCP mounts. I have known people with HCP and used them for a LONGG time with no issues. I, myself, have HASport mounts and they've been working great. Not to mention they have a lifetime warranty.
- Timing Belt for 92-96 USDM Prelude VTEC (2.2L) - $39.99 from AutoZone
- Water Pump for 92-96 USDM Prelude VTEC (2.2L) - $34.99 w/lifetime warranty from AutoZone
- NGK Spark Plugs for USDM 92-96 Prelude VTEC (2.2L) - approx. $15 from Honda. They usually use NGK Platinums, though which are $15 a PIECE!
- Throttle Body gasket for Prelude VTEC (Honda dealership) $7
- Extended Fuel filter hose (from fuel filter to fuel rail) - You can use an extended fuel line and use hose connectors/clamps, which can be bought at AutoZone, Advance, or Pepboys stores. You can also contact a local hose factory to have a custom hose made. (which I have done and recommend).
- Right 90-93 Integra Axle - edit:
You must use a prelude/accord inner CV joint in order for the axle to lock into the transmission. The inner spline shaft is slightly longer for the prelude/accord than the integra. A 90-93 Integra shaft and outer CV will work with the prelude inner.
Here is a picture explaining why:
- Left Custom 92 Prelude Inner CV joint with 90-93 shaft & Outer CV joint from
Raxles for $170 1-800-257-8192
- 1990 Manual Accord Intermediate Shaft
- Left and Right 90-93 Integra Axles (with prelude inner cv joint on the right axle)
- Driveshaftshop.com Stage/Level 1 axles Right & Left side using prelude intermediate shaft
I personally recommend using HASport custom axles for ease of installation.
- FAL import racing fan for 92-00 Civic for $169.95 from Summit Racing 1-800-962-9094 with 1994-97 Del Sol VTEC Radiator or Integra Radiator
- C&R Import Racing aluminum radiator with SPAL fan for DOHC motors - $439.95 (317) 293-4100
- 1992 Integra LS Upper Radiator Hose - approx. $15
- 1994 Del Sol VTEC lower radiator hose - approx. $15
There are people who have ran a slim fan (such as FAL) on factory single core radiators. You can do this, and it will run just fine, but don't plan on taking your car on long canyon runs, road racing, etc, over heating issues will definitely come. But for normal daily driving, you will be fine.
If you are running NO A/C then you can get alternator belt - Part No. 25-060370 from NAPA Auto parts which is $20 or any 36-37" belt with 6 teeth.
Shift linkage information:
I know my car is a little dirty, but you know how it is
FIRST of all, I do NOT
recommend installing the shifter cables and shifter assembly UNTIL you have already mounted the motor in the car. Why? This ensures you align the cables 100% perfectly so you do not have shifting problems. Once you cut the holes out of the car (like pictured):
This hole is to the prelude shifter assembly mounts FLUSH with the chassis:
This is the 2x3 inch hole that you need to cut to feed the shifter cables through:
Here is some pictures of the shifter assembly.
Drill 4 holes to secure the shifter assembly to the chassis and here is the finished product:
Here is a picture from underneath:
For throttle linkage, you can simply use the prelude throttle bracket by flipping it around using the Civic throttle linkage pictured here:
I wanna thank Jason KiDD, Newman and Timmay for help WAY back in the day
I will take more pictures and post more such has O2 information and such.
Other H22 hybriders, PLEASE post H22 information. Thank you.
Modified by poison at 8:09 PM 1/11/2007