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**Official H2B Discussion thread **

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Old 04-01-2014, 08:56 AM
  #20126  
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Default Re: **Official H2B Discussion thread **

Yes, I kept my iacv.
Old 04-03-2014, 05:53 AM
  #20127  
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Default Re: **Official H2B Discussion thread **

Ok guys I having problem with my h2b swap I have this skunk2 h2b adapter with my skunk2 manifold and throttle body the problem I'm having is that the kit doesn't fit my head why idk every time I try different ways it always hit the water pump tube!!!! Please someone help me that's the only thing stoping me from turning my car
Old 04-03-2014, 05:55 AM
  #20128  
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Do I have to buy a thermostat??? Like I'm lost
Old 04-03-2014, 07:20 AM
  #20129  
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Javo- are you refering to the k2h adapter? Last I checked skunk2 didn't make a h2b adapter. Some members who have installed other k2h adapters have had to modify the manifold or adapter or both. Check out 4wsRyan build thread in the appearance/build thread section. He has some detailed images of what I believe you are asking about. Not sure about the thermostat.
Old 04-03-2014, 09:16 AM
  #20130  
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My bad yea the h2k adapter that sh^t is annoying
Old 04-04-2014, 06:22 AM
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Default Re: **Official H2B Discussion thread **

Originally Posted by Javiokidd
Ok guys I having problem with my h2b swap I have this skunk2 h2b adapter with my skunk2 manifold and throttle body the problem I'm having is that the kit doesn't fit my head why idk every time I try different ways it always hit the water pump tube!!!! Please someone help me that's the only thing stoping me from turning my car
I had to cut my manifold and adapter to make it fit. I can take a pic of it when I get home.
Old 04-05-2014, 08:05 AM
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Default Re: **Official H2B Discussion thread **

Just retuned recently and thought i would share.
Stock closed deck h22a(my daily since 2005)
3inch intake
70mm skunk throttle body
Camp 1320 head
2.5ish crush bent piping and a spoon axle back.
Made 200whp and 162tq

http://www.flickr.com/photos/111509553@N04/13635800533/http://www.flickr.com/photos/111509553@N04/13635800533/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/111509553@N04/, on Flickr
Old 04-05-2014, 03:28 PM
  #20133  
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very nice hombre!!
Old 04-05-2014, 09:32 PM
  #20134  
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Default Re: **Official H2B Discussion thread **

Originally Posted by noggin617
I had to cut my manifold and adapter to make it fit. I can take a pic of it when I get home.
Please do
Old 04-06-2014, 09:53 AM
  #20135  
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Originally Posted by 1991_crxsi
Here is my advice: Do not go with an XTD clutch. Save your money and get a quality part. Go with an Exedy, Competition, or ACT… Perhaps some other quality brand.
Generally here is what you want to do: When choosing a clutch for a daily driver look at the torque rating of the clutch. Pick a clutch with sprung hub that is strong enough to handle the torque output of your engine, but do not go overboard.
For reference I was making about 175 ft/lbs. and running an Exedy Stage 1 and chirping 4th. That clutch was rated by Exedy at 186 ft/lbs. The pedal pressure of the Exedy is a little bit too heavy for my tastes. Even still, I have run 3 Exedy clutches with ZERO problems. That is my experience with Exedy so I cannot speak for other folks.
You can get an ACT with a lighter pedal pressure and with just as good or better capabilities. You can mix and match disks with plates on their website to get the desired performance… i.e. lighter pedal pressure with higher torque rating. The Competition clutches and flywheels are good quality as well.
There are differences of opinion regarding different brands, but overall I think I gave you good advice. If you follow it, I think either of those brands will leave you satisfied. Good luck.
ok, i will think about it... makes sense

but now, i have another problem

ive bought hasport mounts, the mounts ive posted last week. these are 2 holes! (driver side)

know i read, i need a 3 holes mount?
some people say, his kit came with 2 hole adapter and other people say, 3 hole adapter. iam so confused about that...

which kit works with the 2 holes? innovate (please no, too expensive... ), qsd or plm?
Old 04-06-2014, 01:02 PM
  #20136  
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Default Re: **Official H2B Discussion thread **

Originally Posted by Javiokidd
Please do
Sorry the pics arent that great but I hope you get an idea.
Attached Images   
Old 04-06-2014, 05:58 PM
  #20137  
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Originally Posted by noggin617
Sorry the pics arent that great but I hope you get an idea.

Thank you for the pics I see now how it looks I will try tomorrow to see how much I have to cut also I have the Evo kit do I have to shave the block also like the guy here or it's fit right in for the axles
Old 04-06-2014, 06:01 PM
  #20138  
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Originally Posted by MidnightWarrior
ok, i will think about it... makes sense

but now, i have another problem

ive bought hasport mounts, the mounts ive posted last week. these are 2 holes! (driver side)

know i read, i need a 3 holes mount?
some people say, his kit came with 2 hole adapter and other people say, 3 hole adapter. iam so confused about that...

which kit works with the 2 holes? innovate (please no, too expensive... ), qsd or plm?

The Evo kit comes with 3 hole bracket the kit you get should come with that bracket you need
Old 04-07-2014, 12:44 PM
  #20139  
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Default Re: **Official H2B Discussion thread **

Originally Posted by Javiokidd
Ok guys I having problem with my h2b swap I have this skunk2 h2b adapter with my skunk2 manifold and throttle body the problem I'm having is that the kit doesn't fit my head why idk every time I try different ways it always hit the water pump tube!!!! Please someone help me that's the only thing stoping me from turning my car
i emailed skunk2 regarding the h2k intake plate, their adapter fits US H22s only, claiming fitment issues because of the waterneck. i run the qsd intake adapter and its been fine on my jdm h22. hope this helps bud.



Old 04-08-2014, 03:56 AM
  #20140  
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I'm about to (finally) install my QSD K2H adapter plate. Do you have to machine it to match the inlet sizes? Ie. port match it? Or is it not so critical on the intake side?

I've port matched my skunk2 TB to the RBC but not the actual inlet mani to the adapter plate to the head....
Old 04-08-2014, 03:21 PM
  #20141  
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Default Re: **Official H2B Discussion thread **

Originally Posted by SiR_Chris
I'm about to (finally) install my QSD K2H adapter plate. Do you have to machine it to match the inlet sizes? Ie. port match it? Or is it not so critical on the intake side?

I've port matched my skunk2 TB to the RBC but not the actual inlet mani to the adapter plate to the head....
it did take some massaging to the ports in my case. it was close though
Old 04-10-2014, 10:02 AM
  #20142  
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Default Re: **Official H2B Discussion thread **

Anyone selling a JDM it 4.7 FD tranny if so pm me
Old 04-10-2014, 07:22 PM
  #20143  
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Default Re: **Official H2B Discussion thread **

I got my skunk2 K2H adapter plate for less than the shop's cost because of that "defect". They had cut the ear off that blocks the EGR port to match the K20A2 intake gasket, then the customer changed his mind. You don't really need it since you can tap & seal the hole with a NPT plug (3/8" or 1/4", can't recall). The extra coolant ports on the RBC manifolds are useless with the K2H adapter, so that end can be cut off the manifold as shown above.

Anyways I have a JDM H23A in my Integra and an H22A4 in my 00 Lude, so I'll take a look at the differences. I'll try to get pictures of the two if I can, but the Lude is stored elsewhere at the moment.
Old 04-11-2014, 05:47 PM
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I checked the H22A4 tube & t-stat against my H23A...it looks identical. Maybe it's a JDM H22A thing.

I also did a bit more work on my plateless H2B...

Old 04-19-2014, 10:49 AM
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Anyone selling or know someone with h22 skunk2 pro series valve train and pro1 cams? If so please PM me
Old 04-21-2014, 10:58 AM
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Is it a bad idea to mount an inline fuel filter directly to the underside of the intake manifold - any issues with getting too hot under there near the block?
Old 04-21-2014, 05:47 PM
  #20147  
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A couple buddys and I put some work in on the h2b swap for my EF.

A month ago i ground the block and pump to far and created a whole in my oil pump. So I removed it and had my brother weld it up. On the block side I used a little RTV ultra black and hondabond on the pump side. Then got the timing belt back on and removed the engine from the stand. Started on the qsd plate, need one more dowel. Got the Flywheel and clutch on as well. Also removed the hydraulic clutch line, installed the new throwout bearing and greased the trans spline for the cluth. For the starter dowel I will be ordering a 14x16 dowel from honda powersports. I found the part number through a google search. 90703-ZG5-000

What is the torque setting for the h2b flywheel bolts? Honda manual says 76ft/lbs but the EK qsd write up says 94 ft/lbs. Also can anyone PM me the full instruction sheet? I dont have any and keep locating threads to figure out where it all goes.

Lower is pump


Engine on pallet


Other side of engine:


Plate shot:
Old 04-21-2014, 07:19 PM
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Default Re: **Official H2B Discussion thread **

Use Red Locktight and Follow the QSD instructions. Normally I always do what Honda recommends, but since the QSD kit uses that aluminum spacer, I would just do what QSD says. I don't remember the ft/lbs I used, but I am sure I used the recommendations from QSD. BTW, you know you can get rid of that long stud by the tensioner (runs through the center of the tensioner pulley) since you aren't running the balance shafts… remove it for better clearance.


sweet oil pan also.
Old 04-21-2014, 08:57 PM
  #20149  
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Originally Posted by Bently_Coop
What is the torque setting for the h2b flywheel bolts? Honda manual says 76ft/lbs but the EK qsd write up says 94 ft/lbs. Also can anyone PM me the full instruction sheet? I dont have any and keep locating threads to figure out where it all goes.
Originally Posted by 1991_crxsi
Use Red Locktight and Follow the QSD instructions. Normally I always do what Honda recommends, but since the QSD kit uses that aluminum spacer, I would just do what QSD says. I don't remember the ft/lbs I used, but I am sure I used the recommendations from QSD. BTW, you know you can get rid of that long stud by the tensioner (runs through the center of the tensioner pulley) since you aren't running the balance shafts… remove it for better clearance.


sweet oil pan also.
Thanks for the compliments on the pan.

Will a washer and bolt work in place of the stud?

I dont have any instructions from the kit. Hence the reason I asked. I tried to call Seth today but the voicemail box is full. Ill probably just send a pm to him.
Old 04-22-2014, 12:11 AM
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Default Re: **Official H2B Discussion thread **

Originally Posted by Bently_Coop
Will a washer and bolt work in place of the stud?
That bolt isn't necessary at all it isn't doing anything.


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